Acatenango & Fuego Volcanoes

Today is the day! I woke up early to have a coffee date with Dana, and we snuggled on the couch under my new Guatemalan rainbow blanket. We talked about how excited I was, as I couldn’t shut up about the adventure awaiting us haha. That has already become the theme of the trip….I repeatedly announce, “I’m so excited!” To which Dana and Hayden respond sarcastically, “Oh really?” Hehe. I just can’t contain myself, what can I say?

Once we had double checked our packing and had our last last pees, we set out on the 13 minute walk to OX. I love walking these streets in the early hours of the morning; the town is peaceful and sleepy, just a few early birds strolling about. We could see Acatenango in the distance, looming over us, a beautiful, fierce, fiery reminder of the power of mother nature. And to think, soon we would be at the top, looking down to where we were walking now. We’ve barely begun and I am so filled with serenity and awe. 

We arrive early, and some of our fellow hikers are already there, waiting for the doors to open. We start to learn some names, and where people are from, and before we know it, the door opens, and we are greeted by one of our guides, Alan. We grab a backpack, put our necessities in, which include warm layers, some borrowed from OX, 4.5 liters of water, snacks, sunscreen, bug spray, and toilet paper. We also had to pack some community items, such as Tupperware filled with pasta, tortillas, cream cheese, banana bread, wine bottles, and marshmallows! Once our hiking packs were sufficiently loaded, we left our other traveling backpacks in a storage locker, where they’d stay for the duration of our hike. It took a while to get all 30 of us ready, but soon we were loaded on buses and headed to a nice sit down breakfast before driving about 45 minutes to the trail head. 

The van ride was filled with nervous excitement as we barreled down the hilly and winding roads towards Acatenango. We made friends with two women, a mother and a daughter from Massachusetts, and a woman from New Zealand. We decided we’d all room together in one of the base camp cabins that fit 6 people. I guess Hayden is the odd man out this time around, sorry! Hehe

Once we arrived, it took another long bit to get all 30 people organized. Our first order of business was to rent hiking poles, which in my opinion, are an absolute must for this hike! Meanwhile, some were using the bathroom one last time before hitting the trail, and others were getting situated with porters to take their packs up. After what seemed to be an eternity, we finally began moving towards the trail. We’re officially on our way to the top of Acatenango! 

The first part of the trail, through the private farmland, is one of the hardest sections of the hike. It’s wicked steep, and consists of loose and sometimes deep, rocky soil. It’s tough to get an upward momentum, and because of the incline, my calves immediately get tight and sore, and I run out of breath rapidly. It feels like it’ll never end. Sounds fabulous, right? Hahaha. 

Since I’ve been here last, 2017 being the most recent, there have been many additions to the trail. First up is a really cute cafe and rest area. You can buy coffee, beer, smoothies, food, and even a souvenir mug. We stayed here for 20 minutes or so resting, eating our first snack, and taking in the gorgeous scenery. Before we knew it, we were back on the trail, and this time, through a very narrow stretch, with barbed wire on one side marking the boundary of the farmland. Another group was coming down, and it was a VERY tight fit haha. But we made it, and when it was crowded, and we were forced to stop to let people shimmy down beside us, it was a great excuse to stop and catch your breath. 

Our next big stop was by my favorite tree, and this is now an entrance to the actual trail. We had to stop, fill out a paper, and pay 50Q ($6) for entry. They had a nice sign welcoming us to Acatenango. I’m glad the trail is growing in popularity, and that hopefully the locals are earning more, but I think I prefer the bare minimum trail better. My first time hiking, there were no shops, no entrance fees, no latrines, and no base camp cabins, anywhere along the trail. It was pure nature and everything we needed we carried with us. Although, I have to admit, I did enjoy having a lighter pack since we weren’t carrying tent or sleeping equipment hehe. 

After a decent break, we continued our ascent through the cloud forest, which was noticeably more humid, there were birds and flowers, and the trail itself was packed soil, making it much easier to get traction than in the farmland. However, the path was almost entirely steep switchbacks. So we traded one challenge for another haha. This marks the beginning of my favorite parts of the hike. There’s not much I enjoy about the farmlands, if I’m being honest hehe. 

Our next big stop was for lunch! A much needed respite after climbing most of the way, and a chance to adapt to lower oxygen in the air. By this point in the hike, some of us were feeling the effects of the altitude, headache, dizziness, shortness of breath. I always get to this point and have to stop more frequently than earlier in the trail. At this point, we’re at the alpine zone, where we see more pine trees than anything, and it’s much cooler. So, while we’re all trying to catch our breath, and cool off from hiking, our wet clothes start to make us cold, so we try to stay in the sun to warm up and dry off. Challenging in its own way, as is every part of the trail, but I’d argue it’s the easiest part of the hike since it appears to be the flattest hehe. 

Our base camp wasn’t far from our lunch spot, and we got there sooner than I expected. This base camp is the furthest south on the volcano I have ever stayed. The first time we camped out all the way on the summit. And that is where I fell apart the most, tearing up, thinking I’d never make it to the top. This is part of the reason why this volcano and hike are so important to me. I overcame what I didn’t believe I could, giving me the confidence and courage to know that I am capable of accomplishing whatever I set my mind to. 

The new base camp was complete with several cabins with big windows facing Fuego, so you could watch the show within the comfort of a warm(ish) cabin. There was also a beautiful little deck that we could sit on and have a picture-perfect clear view of the volcano. After arriving, I still felt like I had some go in me, so I decided to join the Fuego group…FINALLY! I put my big pack down, took out the community food, and packed the day pack to bring up to the Fuego Ridge. We waited for a long time before we set out, and it ended up being a fairly large portion of the group! Awesome! I was beyond excited as I’d always wanted to tackle this part, but never did. 

The hike to Fuego started off great: downhill and easy. But you know what that means, the return trip would be dreadful lol. And we crossed one area that for sure scared me, the “death bridge,” as I’ve just named it. It was just a couple of thick wooden logs that reminded me of linkin logs, with small 2by4 steps for traction, right alongside a giant rock cliff. It was high up, and looking down only added to the anxiety of crossing it. We were told to hold our hiking poles in our left hand, and have 3 points of contact for the length of the makeshift bridge. I could barely grip my poles with one hand, and had a hard time reaching a steady point to balance myself. Luckily, our guide, Romeo, was waiting at the bottom, and had me pass my poles to him, and he took my hand to help me down. He did the same on our return trip, and without his helping hand, I’m not sure I would’ve gotten up by myself lol. 

After this death-defying moment, we continued down hill in some thick, deep soil, skiing down essentially. All fun and games until you think about climbing back up. We finally make it to the cross section between the two volcanoes and take a rest. Had a pee break, and I ended up peeing on myself lol. I think by this 5 legs were shot, and I could no longer execute a proper squat and pee. Oh well, it’ll dry eventually, right? 😅 I had a snack, hoping it would give me the energy to climb up the side of the ridge. As we started, the top was nowhere in sight, and I realized quickly that this would be one of the hardest parts of the entire hike. With already tired legs, wet pants hehe, and a burning desire to see Fuego, I began my climb up the winding path with loose, rocky, deep soil. One step forward, two steps backward. Ugh. And I even have a lighter pack lol. Let the games begin! 

I hiked and climbed, stopped, caught my breath, and added warm layers more times than I could count. This was the first time during the whole day that I started to feel frustrated and hopeless. I had come so far, and I KNEW I had to make it to the top, but I began thinking I wouldn’t make it in time for sunset. I was feeling discouraged and sad, neither great motivators to continue up a difficult path. But, having conquered Acatenango several times, deep down, I knew I had the strength to do it. I pushed onwards, knowing my mind is stronger than my body. 

I finally get to a point where I can see the top of the ridge, and I’m starting to feel the wild excitement the volcano gives me. I start to hike faster, but am quickly reminded that I’m at altitude, and my body can’t keep up with 40% less oxygen, nor the pace my brain wants to take. So I patiently take it a few steps at a time, each step, a hair closer to glory! 

MADE IT! OMG! The view of Fuego from the ridge is better than I could have imagined! I’m immediately overtaken by wonder and inspiration. Agua looking gorgeous in the setting sunlight to my left, and the volcanoes of Lago Atitlan to my right, and ahead of me, on a narrow ridge, FUEGO in all her might and power. She is simply magnificent! I am now running on pure adrenaline and walk quickly up the small hill to the flat part of the ridge where the rest of the group is sitting on a steep hill, watching the sunset over the clouds. I find a spot and drop my bag, and go a bit further to snag some of the most epic photos. I cannot believe I’m here! Just about as close as one can go safely to Fuego. The volcanic eruptions were so loud up here! You begin to hear them from just before the lunch spot, and its a continuous teaser, hearing these giant “BOOMs,” knowing Fuego is putting on a show. But nothing beats being right under her as she explodes clouds of ash and lava rock. It was a terrifying, humbling, and awe-inspiring experience, and one I’ll never forget and will be grateful for forever.

Fuego erupted non-stop for the entire night, almost like clockwork, every 15 minutes or so. We got the best show I’ve ever seen up there, tons of lava rocks flying out of the crater and tumbling down the slopes, almost in slow motion. There was one particularly big eruption and the falling rocks seemed to get awfully close to us! Another group was with us up there, and their guide told them to go back, while ours said it was okay still. He told us though, if you see me running, you run too. Lol I didn’t need to be told that haha. If I see him making a run for it, I’ll be right behind him lol. I did put my backpack on, just in case we had to make a quick run for it, as if we could actually outrun a volcano. 

It was so frigid up there, my fingers were starting to go numb, but I had to get my videos and photos. I’ve loved every Acatenango hike I’ve done, and I will do it again and again and again. But! This moment on Fuego was extra special for me. I’ve wanted to do it since my first trip but never felt prepared enough to attempt it. The sense of accomplishment of completing the “Double Whammy” is something I’ll never forget. 

One of our guides brought up a bottle of rum, and gave us all a celebratory swig. YASS! Warmed me up from the inside out! For all of about 30 seconds lol. And I ate my very squished, very mashed, celebratory cinnamon roll. Victory was mine! A dream come true! As the sun was setting, we all scored incredible photos and videos of brilliantly red lava rocks shooting up from the crater and falling down the sides, looking like red sparkles in the nighttime hues of pink, purple, and orange. 

After about an hour or so, and once the sun had fully set, we began our long, arduous journey back to base camp. In the pitch black. We had headlamps, but even with that light, it was a treacherous path. I nearly fell several times, and I think I did have a full tumble or two lol. My fingers were so numb, I was actually concerned for frostbite, even though I knew it wasn’t that bad, but, I kept moving them when I wasn’t holding a death grip on my poles, to make sure the circulation was still there lol. I knew I’d warm up from the core and then it would eventually reach my fingers, but, even with my gloves on, it was painfully cold. About halfway down my fingers were warming up, and now they felt filled with pins and needles, like when you put your cold fingers under hot water. 

Going down was tough, but relatively fast. When we reached the break spot between the two volcanoes, I tried to mentally prepare myself for what awaited me. I had some water, had a pee, and took off a warm layer. Time to get down to business. The ascent back to camp. It sucked. Hard. At this point, we can hear Fuego continuing to erupt, some of the biggest “booms” and plumes of ash and embers, but now we don’t have a clear view. I wanted to get back to camp as quickly as possible to enjoy the fiery show, but my body had to take its own pace. 

It seemed like forever, but eventually I made it back and was congratulated with a high five from our lead guide, Romeo. I never felt like I earned a high five as much as I did at that moment. And to top it off, as I walked further into camp, Dana and Hayden were waiting for me on the platform, welcoming me back and congratulating me on achieving my big Fuego goal. I was living my best life for sure. Nothing could tear me down from the exhilarating and magical moment. 

Dana, Hayden, and I chatted for a while and shared our experiences, as they had been out and watching Fuego the entire time I was gone. They saw a big eruption and for a moment were worried about those of us up on the ridge. Their photos were stunning! So many epic shots of big eruptions, and even a cool photo of the group of Fuego hikers returning to camp, small bobbing lights all in a line, coming down the trail. 

The Fuego hikers got their dinner, a HUGE portion of pasta and veggies, and we sat around the fire trying to thaw out and recover all the energy we spent on the hike. We were all dead tired, but continued to shout “WOW,” anytime Fuego erupted, attempting to pull out our phones for yet another picture or video. 

Soon we decided to “sleep..” But Fuego had other plans for us. Once we were snuggled in our cabins, we all sat up against the back wall, gazing out the window to watch continuous and epic eruptions. It seemed we could never get enough of them! Hehe

At one point, there was a “cabin shaker,” with the boom of th eruption, the cabin rattled and we got one of the biggest eruptions of the night. SWEET! After this particular eruption, we all agreed, it couldn’t get any better, and with that final eruption, we could sleep peacefully. Or so we thought. Each time a big boom went off, about every 15 minutes or so, we all sat straight up in our sleeping bags and peered out the big windows, exclaiming, “WOW,” and then laying back down and snuggling up again, thinking that would be the last time. But the, “BOOM!” And again, like clockwork, we all sat up and stared at the incredible sight and laid down once more, without saying anything else to one another. A collective experience that we were living and breathing at the same time. How cool is that? 😊

The most any of us slept was 10 minutes here or there, between eruptions. Around 3:45am, the guides knocked on our windows, letting us know it was time to hike to the summit. Another extremely arduous hike that would be done in pitch black. Our whole cabin opted not to go, as we had done enough, and wanted to hang out around the fire and grab a few more nighttime eruption photos. And we were rewarded! Fuego kept it going while the sun was rising, and she put on a parting show for us. 

The next morning, or really, a couple of hours later, we were keeping warm around the fire and enjoying more eruptions. The group of people who hiked to the summit for sunrise began walking back into camp. They all looked dejected, tired, and cold. Only one person said it was a good experience, and now, looking back, I’m pretty sure that was a sarcastic comment. Most of the people said it wasn’t worth it at all! Haha, so the rest of us who stayed felt very good about our decision. And to think, from my perspective, on my first trip, I had to carry more equipment in my pack, all the way to the top! I know how much it sucks, and with the base camp being further down the mountain, the hike up to the summit was even longer. I kind of wish I did it, but I’d rather hike to Fuego than summit Acatenango any day. 

And now for a quick breakfast, and a journey back down. I tried cream cheese and guacamole for the first time, based on a recommendation by a fellow hiker, Brittany. So good! We packed up our gear, had a cup of coffee, and were soon on our way back down. Its always hard to say goodbye to Fuego, but I am grateful for yet another wonderful experience…and easily the best eruption show I’ve seen in all the times I’ve hiked it. 

Going down I kept up with Alex, from SoCal. It was fun talking to him and to hear about all of his adventures and travels. He even has a mountain tattoo on his inner arm, right where I want to get my tattoo of the Fuego/Acatenango profile. More on this later…

At one of our rest points, our guide bought a beer from the tiny tienda, and Dana and I realized we still hadn’t drank our celebration beers! So we agreed to drink them when we got to the big tree and park entrance. 

When we get back there, we see another group filling out the paperwork and paying the entry fee. They still look pretty fresh….I wonder if they know what awaits them bahahaha. Dana and I share a Gallo beer, which has remained remarkably crisp and cool in the bottom of my pack. It never tasted so good! 

Soon enough we were on our way down, headed towards the dreaded farmland section. Again, there were two groups trying to pass each other, with barbed wire on one side. Luckily, I had a guy behind me grabbing my pack as I was wobbling towards the barbed wire, and Alex in front of me, creating a sturdy barrier so I couldn’t fall too far. I love the sense of community and connection that comes from spending that much time with people. And not to mention, uninterrupted by a cell phone or the internet. Pure human to human connection. We don’t get to experience that often these days. Be grateful for it when you have it! 🙂

We make it to the final rest stop, the big area with all the food and drink options. We stayed here a good while, as people were buying food. I guess we worked up quite the appetite ascending and descending a 13,040 foot volcano! And the Fuego ridge was 3,600 meters, or 11,811 feet! Dana cracked open our second beer, and we shared a much deserved refreshment. 

Before we knew it, we were off again, for the last jaunt before officially completing the hike. More farmland, more tiny paths with two groups passing, more barbed wire, and a motivation unlike any other to finally get to the end. Hayden wanted the free t-shirt you get for picking up a bags worth of trash, so Dana and I helped collect trash on our way down. And this was the reason for my one and only fall. Lol Had to grab the wrapper on the ground haha. It was worth it in the end, as we got a tank top for collecting the trash, and Hayden gave it to me! He doesn’t really wear tank tops, and Dana doesn’t wear white, so I’m now the proud owner of a wicked soft, oversized muscle tank lol. Not complaining, though :).

Once we were back at OX and getting our packs off the roof of the van, I noticed a tattoo shop there. So when we were done unpacking our stuff, we realized we had 2 hours to kill before heading to our next airbnb. The plan was gonna be to hang out at the beautiful Starbucks in town (ugh I know, but it really was gorgeous!). But I decided I wanted to go to the tattoo shop and just inquire about my tattoo idea. I’m so glad I did! Francisco sat down with me, and we basically designed the tattoo that I want. And he was trying to set up a time to do it, and the times weren’t great, so I told him I’d get back to him. 

Turns out he’s hard to find, and there are no reviews that we saw. So I’m ultimately not willing to get my first tattoo at a place that I can’t verify is clean at the very least, or good. Lol. But I do have the image of it, so if I can find a reputable tattoo shop, I’d like to get it done here in Guatemala, or somewhere in Central America, but realistically, I’ll probably have to wait until I’m back home. 

We checked into the airbnb, and because the towels were still drying, we grabbed some pizza for lunch right across the street. The pizza was SOOOO good. We super enjoyed it, and felt like we could’ve eaten even more! We ordered 2 large pizzas and French fries haha. We definitely needed to replenish some calories lost on the volcano. 

And now, after lunch, and eager for a hot shower and to do some laundry. Well…..there was something wrong with the water, and the water pressure was next to nothing, and there was no hot water that we could figure out lol. The drip drop pressure was a challenge to scrub off all the volcano dust from my feet in particular, and my hair haha. But I did a pretty great job, although my feet were still a bit dusty haha. 

After having a full belly, and having a cleansing shower, I was ready for bed lol. We did some recharging of devices, and snuggled in bed to go through pictures and videos, and eventually put a load of laundry in after we had all showered. Dana picked the heavy soil setting, which took about an hour. We were gonna throw it in the dryer, and head to bed. Well, upon lifting the lid of the washer, she realized the soap never dissolved. Haha whooops! Maybe there wasn’t enough water in the washer to do it properly. So, she put it on the quick setting, hoping a second wash would do the trick. It made all sorts of weird noises and we just hoped our clothes would be cleaner than they were on the volcano. After waiting what seemed to be eons, the washer stopped and Dana checked it again. Good to go! The clothes didn’t stink, so in the dryer they went and off to bed we went. Gotta love the unexpected haha. Happy travels, everyone!