February 15th: Luxembourg > Belgium 

I had free breakfast again at the Luxembourg hostel. 😁 I still can’t figure out if this is a new thing with hostels or what, but I am definitely a fan! It’s not a grand buffet, but it’s enough to get your fill. I also particularly enjoyed the calm, relaxing music they played. It reminded me of a Lord of the Rings lofi mix… what a great way to start the day. 🤗

I checked out of the hostel and hopped on the FREE bus to central station, where I learned the train line was down between here and somewhere, so I’d need to take a bus across the border to Arlon Station in southern Belgium before getting the train to Brussels. Okkaayyy. I’m glad I left early. 😅 The instructions I got were pretty clear, but I had a hard time finding where the bus was leaving from. After wandering around, checking all the signs, I finally asked someone for help, and then I saw it. A GIANT sign across the street. Apparently I didn’t have enough coffee at breakfast. 🤣

I decided to start my Belgian journey in Bruges… I just had a feeling that I would love it there and would prefer it to Brussels. And I’m so glad I did… It was supposed to snow the afternoon I arrived, and it held off JUST long enough for me to arrive to the hostel. By the time I checked in and made my way to my first beer, it was snowing pretty heavily and was accumulating rapidly. The streets were turning from cobblestone to snow right before my eyes. I ordered my first Belgian beer, a Carouls Classic, after taking the suggestion of the bartender. I wanted a darker beer to warm me up before going for a snowy walk around the city. Success!

It did the trick, and I was off! First up: two large windmills situated alongside the river and a big city gate. While I was enjoying the snowy walk, many people were out sledding down the big hills the windmills were built on. I wasn’t going to wander too far due to the cold and wet, but I should know myself better by now… Once I’m out exploring, there’s no stopping me. 🤣 I ended up meandering all the way to the town center. There weren’t many people out and it was so lovely to stroll through the snowy streets and parks. 

I ended up at a waffle shop to warm up with a hot chocolate and a chocolate waffle. Chocoholic, am I right? Hehe. Way overpriced, but I honestly didn’t care. I was frigid, and even had substantial layers on, including two layers of pants. 😂 After my sweet treat, I went back to the hostel to warm up and relax for the rest of the evening. 

February 16th: Ghent

This hostel didn’t have a free breakfast, but if you pre-booked it was 7 euro or 8 if you paid in the moment. I didn’t pre-book, as I wasn’t sure if I wanted to do breakfast there or not. I looked around for coffee shops and eateries, but not many were open early enough for me. I learned later that this was a holiday week, so it’s not so surprising after all. After looking at some of the menus, the coffee alone was nearly as much as the entire hostel breakfast. So, I decided it was worth it to eat at the hostel before heading out on an adventure.

Their brewed coffee was SO strong. I can’t believe I’m even typing this, but I had to cut it with hot water, lol. I normally enjoy very strong coffee, but maybe my palate has weakened since traveling? But that’s never happened before, so then again, maybe they just tripled brewed it? Who knows. It was a jolt to the heart (and bowels) for sure. 😅

As much as I wanted to stay and explore Bruges today, I would be heading to Ghent. I HAD to do the beer spa (yes, you read that right), and there wasn’t any availability for today in Bruges, so I swapped my days around. 

I’d heard that Ghent was picturesque and quaint and a must do. While I don’t disagree by any means, I would say I prefer Bruges without a doubt. I almost wish I did skip Brussels to stay in Bruges longer. 😅

Anyways, back to Ghent. I took a tram to the farthest point, the Gravensteen Castle. Holy Moly! It was epic! Sitting right at the edge of a canal and dominating the landscape, I obviously had to go inside and explore. It was a fairly steep entry fee, but there was a free audio tour included, and one of the options was a comedy tour, which I chose. My favorite fun fact from this castle was a hole in the floor that was allegedly used to throw prisoners into an exit-less pit. I wonder though, if enough people were tossed in, could you stand on each other’s shoulders and climb out? 🤔

After the grand castle tour, I walked around to see the rest of Ghent. Gorgeous buildings, and so many reminded me of things straight out of Harry Potter. Magical, to say the very least. One building in particular, I essentially went out of my way to find, only to discover it was covered in scaffolding, lol. Positives of traveling in the off season: fewer crowds. Negatives: plenty of construction. 😂 This wasn’t the first historic building I was excited to see that was hidden behind layers of construction materials. I’m pretty sure I’d still take off-season than in the middle of the summer, though. 😅

Next up was the Gruut Brewery. Gruut is a type of beer made with herbs and spices rather than hops. I’d never heard of it, but it seemed like a must try, not to mention all I could think about was little Groot from Guardians of the Galaxy. 🤗🌱

I arrived just as they opened and tried a blonde, and then it started pouring rain, so I sampled two of the others. 😅 They were very good, but I couldn’t tell they were any different than “hopped” beer. I stayed here a while, working on the blog and waiting until the next bar opened: The Dulle Griet. I’d seen this on IG, and knew I had to give it a go. 

I walk towards the next bar, and I’m about 15 minutes early, but there was already a line! They did start to let people in early, so I hopped in line and got in. And thank god I did, because it was already pretty packed! I sat next to two new friends, a Belgian and a Spaniard. We figured out the only common language between the 3 of us was Spanish, so that’s what we spoke for the evening. 

The fun thing about this bar is they serve a beer in a 1.2 liter glass! Yikes! And as collateral for the glass, they take one of your shoes and string it up in a basket hanging from the ceiling. 🤣 I HAD to do this. A lot of people in there were ordering that one, and I’m sure that has made this bar a tourist hit. I don’t even want to imagine what this place looks like in the high season. I was asking the Belgian for more beer recommendations, as there are just so many to choose from. He told me to definitely try the Westmalle Trappist, and he ordered another one I was curious about, Gulden Draak, or Golden Dragon, and I can see where it gets its name. After the lighter, but 1.2 liters of the other beer, the second beer packed a punch. 😅

Soon it was time to pay and get my shoe back. 😂 I realized that before you order that big beer, you should probably use the bathroom… I wouldn’t want to go in there with only 1 shoe… 😅

On my walk back to the train station, I was gifted with beautiful nighttime views of all the things I had seen during the day. It gave the city a true Harry Potter vibe and I was all over it. I was just 100% in the moment and feeling a deep gratitude for the ability to travel and to experience these things first hand. Traveling is a beautiful adventure that fulfills the soul and expands the mind in surprising ways. I always encourage everyone to travel… money will come back, but your experiences and your youth won’t. If you want to do it, DO IT. Don’t wait for anyone. YOLO-SOLO! 🤗🌏🌎✈️

To finish off my evening, I stopped by a grocery store for some cheap dinner and hopped on the train back to Bruges. 

February 17th: Bruges

I began my day with the hostel breakfast again, and yes, the coffee was just as strong as it was yesterday. Dang! Haha. After I had my fill, I was planning to have a relaxing morning and do my best to catch up on the blog. But I was also looking for a free walking tour to do for the day; I wanted to learn as much about Bruges as I could. 

I ultimately decided to do a self-guided tour via an app that had points of interest and descriptions. It was a compromise because sometimes the free walking tours aren’t that great and I’d rather save my money to sample more beer… 😅😁

As I began my walking tour, it was noticeably busier; so many people were out and about today. I had been scoring photos with nobody in them, but today this would be a challenge, if possible at all. One of the first big stops was the Half Moon Brewery, which my dear friend, Jaimee, had suggested to me. Little did I know this brewery is quite important in Bruges.

I ended up taking the brewery tour, which of course ended with a free beer. But I was early for the tour, so I did what anyone would do, and walked in to try a beer first. 🤣 I had the Bruges Zot, and it was yummy! Right up there with the Carouls Classic, although VERY different. 

The tour was informative and exploring the brewery itself was very interesting. It was tiny! Built up higher rather than wider, each floor was a different stage in the brewing process. The most interesting part was the beer pipeline they constructed that transports the beer directly from the brewery to the bottling facility 3 km away. 

I also learned the origin of the infamous “IPA.” I thought this was a relatively new brew, but apparently it was the British who created it first. They were sailing between the British Isles and India for the trade routes, and hops is a natural preservative. Well, legend has it, the beer was spoiling on the long journey, so they added heaps more hops, and voila! You have the first “India Pale Ale.”

I also learned that coriander and dried orange are the two most popular flavors added to beer. Who knew? After the tour I went in to try their fruit beer. I was told it was not sweet, and I figured it’d be worth a shot. It was good! I enjoyed it with a couple I met on the tour, and we were pleasantly surprised with it. I probably wouldn’t order it again, but I’m glad I tried it.

My new friends gave me a tip when looking for chocolates: there are some shops that have an official chocolate guild sign out front. This is how you know you’ve found the REAL good stuff. Awesome! I knew I wanted to try some chocolate, but had been told to try Leonidas, a very popular chain. I’m glad I found out some insider information, and I skipped Leonidas all together. I did find a shop right near the brewery and got 3 pieces of chocolate and scarfed them down. They were delicious! Thanks, friends! 🤗

I continued my walking tour and saw some amazing things, including the Basilica of the Holy Blood. It had a stunning exterior, but the inside… I’ve never seen anything like it before. Extremely ornate and colorful. And there was a line to see the holy blood, which honestly didn’t look like anything, but hey, now I’ve seen a relic!

I finished up my walking tour and went back to the hostel to grab my bathing suit for the beer spa. I still had a few more things to see, so I went back to cross the last things off my list. I was early for the beer spa, but noticed a couple of people walk in before me. So I followed suit. The woman explained to me a bit how everything works, and showed me to my room. 

It was so big, complete with a bathroom, shower, two tubs, a straw bed, and yes, a beer tap that I could help myself to. The lights were dimmed and they had electronic candles and calming music for the ambiance. Now this, I could get used to. I enjoyed the spa for 1.5 hours and finally got ready to head to the last major thing on my Bruges itinerary: Le Trappiste Bar. 

Located near the beer spa, and in a vaulted basement, this was definitely a picturesque place to sample the infamous beer made by monks. I chose the one I’d been recommended a few times over, Westmalle Dubbel, and I was not disappointed. 

February 18th: Brussels

Today officially marks the beginning of the end of my trip. I’m headed to Brussels for two nights and then back home to Boston. I was sad to leave Bruges, but I have more to explore and I’m sure I’ll enjoy the last couple of days. I reach the hostel quickly, before check-in, and leave my bag in a locker and hit the town! First up, lunch right next door. I had a cappuccino and a quiche Lorraine and was fueled for my self-guided city tour. 

The Grand Place was stunning! The main plaza of historic Brussels, the buildings surround the courtyard were gilded in gold and the gothic architecture was drool-worthy. Okay okay, Brussels is worth it 😜. I was considering skipping the city all together, but was told it shouldn’t be missed. While arguably, not my favorite, it was still beautiful and certainly warrants a visit. I saw the infamous “Manneken Pis” statue as well as his female counterpart, and a dog! 

Through my research of the city, I found a really cool art-nouveau building that houses a museum of musical instruments. Well, of course I went! I was very excited about the possibility to see some unique instruments, and maybe if I was lucky, handbells! I purchase my entry ticket, which includes a free audio guide. Turns out, the “audio guide” is a whole bunch of recorded music that correlates to the various instruments within the museum. Cool! The first two floors of the museum were pretty awesome, instruments spanning time and countries. After that, there was an exhibit with piano like instruments and not much else. They did have one example of a carillon, and there were a few variations of ancient bells, but no modern bells in sight. Sigh.

I head back to the hostel to officially check in and get into the room. Looks like its going to be a full 3-person room this time around. I guess you can’t always luck out. 🙃 Once I got myself situated and settled in the room, I enjoyed some down time before wandering out for dinner. I decided I wanted to try the traditional Flemish Beef Stew. I found a lovely restaurant and ordered the stew with a beer. Perfect! The stew was very tasty, but it’s known for being fairly sweet. And oh it was. It was incredibly unique, but as far as beef stews go, I’ll take the Irish Guinness beef stew over this one. Sorry, Belgium! 😅

After dinner it was time for an evening stroll through the Grand Place to see the gilded buildings lit up and it did not disappoint. Then it was back to the hostel for some sleep.

February 19th: Antwerp

The hostel requires that everyone be locked out of the rooms between 11 and 3pm, so they can quickly clean before new people check-in. Interesting logistics, but I get it. So today I’d be heading to Antwerp for a quick day trip to help fill that gap. 

But first, time for some free breakfast! I’m really loving the breakfast situation at these hostels. It’s not a luxury buffet by any means, but it gets the job done! 🤗 I had a leisurely breakfast while I worked on the blog, and I returned to the room to get ready for the day. 

I walked to the central station in Brussels and bought my ticket to Antwerp. Found the train, and I was off! What should’ve been a fairly quick ride took forever… Apparently I was on the train that stopped at ALLLLLLL the stops along the way. Hah! I didn’t even think to check that. I must’ve lucked out with all the other local trains I’ve been taking. 😅

I finally make it to Antwerp, and if you know, the Antwerp train station is like something out of a movie. It has got to be one of the most beautiful stations in the world. It’s wondurously and intricately magnificent! I stayed a few moments, checking out the different areas and soaking in the beauty before beginning my walk towards the historic center. Along the way I spotted a restaurant called “Boston,” and I kid you not, two stores down was a Dunks. 😂 Where am I? 

It was an easy walk down a pedestrian only road, which led me exactly to a very fancy shopping mall that was on my list to see. I walked inside and instantly understood why it was worthwhile to check out. Oh, and they have free WiFi. 😂 My free “good” data was running out, so I had to be a bit more frugal with my usage, and free WiFi was more than welcomed. They did not, however, have free bathrooms. Dang it! 

Next up, I found myself by the infamous statue with my favorite kind of tourist that just stands right next to it for hours trying to get their next profile picture, with no sense of awareness. 🙄😂 Sometimes I wish people could “read the room.” We all want a picture, so why not just takes turns? Why hog up a clearly coveted spot? Bah. Anyways… it was beautiful, and it could’ve been a LOT more crowded had it been summer time. 

I continued my walk towards the river to see the Het Steen Castle! I read online it was free to enter and was very curious as to why. Pretty much all the castles require an entry fee. Well, the outside looks amazing… very picture perfect. Turns out, that’s basically all it is. 😅 They built a tourist information center inside and there is access to the rooftop for “panoramic” views, but the castle isn’t even close to the tallest building in the area, so I’m not sure I’d really call those views “panoramic.” But, hey, it was still fun to check out. 

I found a cool tunnel on Google Maps that was quite old and had a wooden escalator! Soooo, I strolled over there and went down. It was very cool! And VERY loud, haha. I rode two escalators to the bottom and contemplated walking the length of the tunnel. Part of me just really didn’t want to. But then I thought, but if I walk all the way across, surely there will be a great view of the city from the other side of the river. Okay. I’m going. So begin the long walk. It was extremely busy, mostly with people on bikes, but clearly, it serves the city well. 

After my lengthy tunnel experience, I begin a slow walk back towards the central station, stopping to get a waffle, of course. 😁 I tried a slighty different one, a “Brussels” variation, which I actually didn’t like as much. It was crunchier and rectangular. I still managed to eat the whole thing, though 🤪. 

Before getting back to the train station, I stopped by my favorite shopping mall for some free WiFi and caught up on a few messages. I bought a coffee for the ride back to Brussels and was on my way. 

Back at the hostel, I rested a bit again, before making myself get up for one last night in Belgium. I still had to go check out the Delirium Cafe (a renowned bar) and grab dinner. But beer first. This place had so many options to choose from, but I went with my gut and chose a strong blond by Delirium. It was quite tasty, but not as good as the very first beer I had, Carouls Classic. So, I order that next. And then I decide I must sample the Trappist beer one last time, so I order the Westmalle. And then… no, no more beer 🤣. It was time for dinner. Which ended up being a… drumroll please… a raspberry waffle! This was by far my favorite. It wasn’t covered in raspberry sauce or raspberries, but the batter itself had raspberries in it. I should’ve ordered 5 of those things!

Time to shower and finish packing as much as I can… I have to wake up early tomorrow to begin my long journey back to Boston. 

February 20th: Brussels > Amsterdam > Boston

My alarm went off at 5am… sorry, roommates! I got ready and packed the last little bit, with one casualty. My pair of jeans were getting holes between the legs, so I said goodbye to my favorite pair and off I went to the metro. 

I would be taking a train directly to the Amsterdam airport, but I needed to take a city train to a different train station for that one. So, at nearly 6 in the morning, I’m trying for the first time to figure out how to work the local metro. Not super challenging, but it took me a minute to figure out how to scan my ticket. 😅 Finally through the turnstyle, I wait about 10 minutes before my train comes, and my journey home begins. 

The train to AMS worried me, only because the ticket I bought was VERY specific and said it needed to be that particular train at that particular time and day. I wasn’t sure how many trains there were, but I was just hoping nothing went wrong and I’d get on the right one. 

Turns out, there were other people confused, but we all sort of decided we must be in the right place, and we pile onto the train. At first, the train is empty, but the closer we got to AMS, the more people got onto the train. Soon it was my stop. And well, just about everyone else’s too, haha. 

The AMS airport is AMAZING because the trains literally run right underneath it. So after exiting the train and going up one flight of stairs, I was inside the main entryway of the airport. I didn’t even have to go outside. I wish all cities were like this… its so convenient! 

Now, as many times as I’ve flown to AMS as a flight attendant, I have never done it as a “regular” person. I had NO idea where to go. Luckily, the signage was easy enough to follow, and soon I found myself in the security line. Then passport control, and then, bam! I was inside the terminal and familiar with my surroundings. I hunted for some nourishment and made my way to the departure gate. It was a far one. So even though today is a travel day, I’m pretty sure I’m getting plenty of steps in 😂. 

Boarding begins and I’m given a seat and get comfy. It’s always so bittersweet returning home. I never want my travels to end, but I also have things to look forward to in Boston. And Belgium for sure is a place I’ll visit again, especially Bruges:). Where to next? 🌏✈️

Day 0: Paris: the “In-Between Day“

Last I left you, Heather and I were wrapping up our incredible Jordan trip, and headed to Paris before parting ways. We woke up early to finish packing and to catch our ride to the Queen Alia airport at 7:30. We had the same driver I had when I first arrived in Jordan, and I loved this full-circle moment:). The airport was a breeze, although, they took extra care to swab electronic devices, which slowed us down ever so slightly.

Soon we were headed towards the gate, awaiting to board the flight to Paris. When Heather was originally planning this trip, the best options were to fly from Amman to a European city and then take a standby flight from there back to Boston… and Paris ended up being the winner! The flight was about 5 hours long, and I ended up with another row to myself! Yippee!

Before we knew it, we were landing in Paris, and ready for the adventure of finding the hotel shuttle in the mayhem that is the CDG airport. We had instructions from the hotel on where to go and we were following airport signage. We finally get curbside and take a seat, hopeful the shuttle would come soon. We kept waiting and waiting and waiting, until finally, Heather was able to get a call through to the hotel and they informed us that the shuttle doesn’t run between the hours of 10am and 5pm. Guess what time it was? 😅 So, after feeling disappointed and frustrated, we book an uber and try to find the pick up location. We found it quickly, but our uber was showing that he arrived on the opposite side of the terminal. Uh-oh. Luckily, he called me and knew exactly where we were and came to get us. Merci beaucoup!

Weary from our jouney and a slight transportation snafu, we make it to the Jangle Hotel, and it is adorable! Now we wish we were staying here longer than just an evening. We get to the room, which is quite spacious, and notice how ridiculously large the TV is: just as big, if not bigger than the king size bed! We definitely considered staying in for the night to watch a movie and relax. 🙃

But that’s not what Heather and I do, and we know it. Where there is something to be explored, we simply cannot pass up the opportunity. Heather found a quaint town on the other side of the airport, Roissy-en-France that offered a small walking tour of their places of interest. We grab an uber and head over there, just as it started to rain pretty heavily. Of course 🙄. We hastened our pace and did the speed walk tour, but not without first stopping at a “boulangerie” for a French croissant. Mmmmm, so delicious. 😋

Finally we work our way back to the restaurant, about half an hour early for our reservation due to the rain. Heather ordered escargot, and we reminisced about the last time we ate those together… Heather nearly flung one all the way across the restaurant, just like in the movie “Pretty Woman.” 🤣 Fortunately tonight, that wasn’t a problem. But, it’s always something, and Heather had a very different problem; she had trouble getting the little snails out of their shell at all! Perhaps they were shy and didn’t want to be flung across the room, so they held on for dear life 🤣. Eventually, Heather got them out and enjoyed the French delicacy. Patience is a virtue… I on the other hand, opted for a less exciting, but extremely delicious pasta. I was definitely craving some comfort food on a cold and rainy night.

We get back to the hotel, pack our bags, sort out our morning schedules, and crash. It’s been a beautiful and enriching week, but also a long one. And tomorrow it’s off to Luxembourg to continue my adventure! 🤗

Day 1: Train to Luxembourg

I wake up exhausted, but as usual, I’m excited for the journey ahead. 🤗 I’ve decided to take the train to Luxembourg City instead of a flight to try out the European rail system. But first, I have to take the hotel shuttle at 7:15 to the airport. From there, it’s an easy ride on the metro to the main train station in downtown Paris.

The train station is beautiful and open-air. It does have a roof, but it was quite chilly “inside.” I arrived way too early for the train, but didn’t want to pass up the free airport shuttle, as the later ones were completely full. 🙄 Oh well, time to get comfortable! As my departure approached, I did a lap and purchased a delectable Parisian sandwich on a baguette for the ride and used the bathroom. The train station doesn’t assign a platform until what feels like last minute… so I am set to go, fully stocked on snacks and I just sit and wait. And wait some more. Eventually, the platform is revealed and I head over. Nobody checks my ticket as I enter the platform, or the train. I take a seat, and hope I’m on the right train… if nobody is checking tickets yet, it would be easy to hop on the wrong one. 😅

The train starts moving and while I’m confident I’m on the right train, there is always a tiny seed of doubt. But I notice a digital sign that shows the direction of the train and the stops along the way. Phew! I’m for sure on the right one. Eventually, a woman comes through checking the train tickets. I guess its more an honor system, and I wonder what happens if you get caught without a ticket? How much is that fine? The train speed was shown on my favorite digital screen, and we were screaming between 160 to almost 190 mph!

The train made two stops along the way, and the towns looked beautiful, making me wish I could pop off just for a quick walk around. Before I knew it, we were pulling into Luxembourg Station, and I decided to take a local bus to the hostel. I asked for help with directions, making sure I got on the right bus, and I also double checked that they were completely free! It’s a very hard concept to wrap my head around, but all the public transportation within Luxembourg is 100% free! Amazing! 🤗

It didn’t take long to reach the hostel, and along the way I was getting a sneak-peak at the fortressed city, and I couldn’t WAIT to put my bags down and head out to explore. After a very steep walk down a hill, I found the hostel and checked in. I was alone in the room! For now… haha. In the past, I have actually lucked out in a dorm room with only 1 other person, and once, and only once, I had it to myself. 😁 You never know! Especially in the off-season :).

I get my bed situated and lock away my belongings, and head out to wander the streets of Luxembourg. I began by just following my instincts and walking towards the beautiful towers and walls of the city. But I had also read about the “Wenzel” walk, and wanted to follow that around. The walk is 2.5km and takes approximately 3 hours to complete. While on my walk, I experienced a “traveler’s high:” moments of pure joy where it was difficult to contain my excitement. I couldn’t believe I was standing here, taking in the views of this magnificent city! I may or may not have been all smiles and giggling to myself. 🙃🫠

I must have walked at least 3 hours, if not more, before I decided it was time to grab some food. My Mom’s work colleague, Sean, lives in Luxembourg, and he gave me some recommendations. First up, Konrad Cafe and Bar. It was a beautiful cafe with ornate decorations and wall paintings. I chose a seat downstairs, and it looked like it was an old wine cellar perhaps, furnished with an eclectic mix of antique decor. I tried a baked feta dish and although it wasn’t super filling, it was delicious and definitely hit the spot.

After resting for a moment, I left the Konrad and found myself in the main plaza. Most of this area is pedestrian only, and it was lovely to just stroll around, admiring the buildings. I stopped by a grocery store for some snacks and water, and began the walk back to my hostel. While on the walk, I noticed signs for the “Vauban” walk, something similar to the Wenzel, but a different route. I’ll have to save that for another day.

Day 2: Trier, Germany! 🇩🇪

My hostel included a free breakfast, and it was quite impressive! Is this a new thing for hostels? Has it been that long since I’ve stayed in a hostel? Or was I just lucky? They had an assortment of breads and some cheese and salami for sandwiches, yogurt, and orange slices. I can’t help but wonder if they’re trying to keep everyone as healthy as possible with the oranges in a group living environment 😅.

After my yummy breakfast, I head to the central train station on a FREE bus! I still can’t get over the fact that all the public transit is free. I wonder if that has encouraged more people to use it versus owning a personal vehicle? If I lived in Luxembourg I don’t think I’d bother with a car at all… free transportation PLUS the well connected trains all throughout Europe? When would you need a car?

My journey of the day would be to Trier, Germany, once a bustling Roman town, and now beautifully preserved for all to enjoy. I imagined the city being quite small, but it was bigger than I thought. I got off the train and followed Google Maps to a few points of interest on the other side of town, before heading to where the Roman area was. While walking the nearly empty streets, I saw a GORGEOUS VW GTI, in the motherland! 😁🥰 It made me miss my little “Black Betty.” 🥹

Next up was the “Porta Nigra,” an ancient Roman gate, and the official entrance to the Roman part of the city. I bought an entry fee to go inside, which I was hesitant about, but it was surprisingly worth it! The inside is decorated with carvings on each floor, and the architecture is beautiful. Not to mention the views of the city below… 😁

From the Porta Nigra, I walked the circuit to see all of the historical buildings (mostly churches and cathedrals), ending up at the Roman Baths. There was an entry fee for these as well, and ultimately, I don’t think it was worth it. 😅 These baths look more impressive from the street, but only because as one point in time, someone decided to build a castle on the same land, and those are the ruins that can be seen from the road. Not to mention, these baths were never finished. They began constructing them, but the project ended before completion. I did also visit the Barbara Baths, which were intact and functional in Roman times, and guess what? They were free! There was a catwalk that goes right through the area. Less to see, perhaps, but more interesting knowing that these baths were functional. At least for an anthropology major 😅.

On the other side of town, I crossed the street at a stoplight, and it had the “walking man” indicators, except for this particular one was 100% Karl Marx, haha. Karl Marx was born in Trier, and you can visit the house he lived in and there a big statue in the middle of the town. A lovely little nod to my social theory class in college:).

As I was headed back towards the central area of the town, I came across a cafe selling my new favorite Jordanian dessert, Kunafa! I of course needed to try it… and it did not compare at all. 🤣🙈 I knew that’d be the case, but I still had to try it. I sat there and rested my tired feet while remembering what an amazing trip Jordan was. After my snack, I had to of course sample at least 1 German beer. So I found a little outside area to sit down and I enjoyed exactly one beer before heading back to the train. 🍻

Back in Luxembourg, I decided to walk from the central train station all the way back to the hostel. It really wasn’t THAT far of a walk, and I got to see more of the “modern” side of the city. When I got back to the hostel, I asked about laundry, as I was getting desperate. 😅 Turns out they have a self-service laundry system. Okay…. Not ideal because that means I can’t go out and explore and have it ready to pick up. Oh well, I can work on the blog, right?

I get down to where the laundry room is, and there are 2 washers and 1 dryer. 🙄 Both washers are busy. So I get comfortable. Soon one of the washers ends, but nobody comes to get their stuff. I take their clothes out and put mine in. The wash was about 40 minutes. Now time for the dryer. The dreaded European dryer. In my experience, they always take forever. As I put my clothes in and select the “extra dry,” it showed over 2 hours! Ugghh. So I get comfortable again. After about 45 minutes, I optimistically check the clothes, which are definitely not dry. 🤣 I try another half hour, and then some more. By the end, it was nearly a full 2 hours for my clothes to dry… I mean, it DID tell me… But hey, at least I have clean clothes now:). The downside, I was so tired and angstsy, I decided to just go upstairs and to bed. No dinner. I’ll eat extra at breakfast. 😅

Day 3: Happy Valentine’s Day in Vianden!

Today’s adventure would be taking me to a small town near the German border, Vianden. Home to a majestic castle and a bar recommendation from my mom’s colleague. Rather than leaving from the central station, I’d be leaving from a station right next door to the hostel. I only had to hike about up about 100 stairs to get there. 😅 I had seen the tracks way above as they pass over the viaduct, but I didn’t imagine the station would also be situated right on the side of the cliff. Starting the day off strong!

I make it to the first stop where I need to change to a local bus to finish my journey to Vianden. And guess what? It started snowing! It felt wondurously magical to be on my way to a castle with snowflakes falling gently outside. 🤗❄️

I arrive to Vianden shortly after 9am, and the castle doesn’t open until 10. So I decide to do the walking trail that claims to have a beautiful viewpoint of the castle and the town below. Along the way I catch sight of the ancient ramparts that once protected the imposing castle.

As I found the trailhead, I noticed it was closed. Womp Womp. Bummer! I was really looking forward to that! So off I go to another viewpoint I had marked on Google maps. Success! It was a steep walk up, but I was grandly rewarded. It’s always worth it! After taking in my fill of the views, I head back towards the castle entrance to begin the tour.

The castle was stunning and it was easy to imagine what life must’ve been like here. One of my favorite things I learned was that the head-chef’s bedroom was half a flight of stairs above the kitchen, and had a window looking down into the kitchen, so they could keep tabs on the staff and make sure everything was up to snuff. No rest for the weary!

After the castle, I did find a trail down the hill towards the infamously decorated dam. I was here, so I might as well explore that as well. 🤗 I was curious to walk along the river and check out the flooding, too. There was a riverside walk at the water level, but some of it was completely submerged with dirty brown storm water. Actually, all the water I’ve seen so far has been brown. I can only imagine what some of these places look like with clear, blue water.

On my walk back to town, I caught a glimpse of a bell tower, and obviously, I had to investigate. I consulted my trusty Google Maps for directions to it, and that turned out to be a massive failure. It led me right to a giant cliff with no way up. 😂 But I wasn’t going to be thwarted, so I walk up the only possible street the entrance could be on, searching for a solution. In my efforts, I ended up passing the “real” entrance, but still found another route up. Not the easiest to find, but it boasted pretty epic views of the town. Its always worth it!

Finally, it’s time to sit down and rest at the Ancien Cinema, a unique bar that shows movies on a huge projector screen. Too bad they weren’t playing anything when I went in. I wonder if it’s just certain days and/or times? I sat in a comfy chair and enjoyed a much deserved beer. Soon, a woman asked if she could sit in my little nook… it WAS a very cozy and chic nook.:) I invited her over and we began to chat while we warmed up. She’s from Luxembourg and she asked me how I was enjoying it, and she told me a bit about the country, and how the Luxembourgish language is slowly disappearing. A lot of transplants come to Luxembourg, and the locals, rather than help the new arrivals learn the language, will speak to them in French or English, and so unfortunately, less and less people are learning and using Luxembourgish.

Soon my new friend left to host her showcase; she is a local artist and the gallery next door was displaying her artwork. And so I began the trip back to Luxembourg City. When I made it back, I did an extended city tour of the Vauban Circuit, the one I had seen a couple days ago. There were a couple of fortresses I wanted to see, and one was a museum. It looked super interesting, so I did pay the entry fee to go in, but ultimately was dissapointed. Even with the roof access, the views weren’t that great. The best thing about the museum was the guillotine they had inside. “Off with his head!”

After walking more than I thought I could, I head to the main plaza, in search of a cake shop that was also recommended to me. Well, guess who didn’t put 2 and 2 tougher that today is Valentine’s Day and I’m trying to squeeze in a cake shop visit 20 minutes before they close? Haha. Let’s just say, there wasn’t much left. Dang! So I leave empty handed and attempt to have dinner at another recommended restaurant, only to find out they’re at capacity already! #Valentinesday. 🤣 So I ended up next door at pasta restaurant that only had seating outside…

…Brrrrr! It was soooo cold out, but they had blankets, and I was exhausted and super hungry. So I dealt with the frigid temps (I do consider myself a hearty New Englander, afterall 😅) and ordered a Luxembourg sparkling wine (very tasty) and a sizeable pasta dish. Perfect! Well, except for the my hands nearly going numb in the cold, lol. 🥶

After my delicious but chilly dinner, I head back to the hostel to pack up what I can and get ready for the trip to Bruges tomorrow morning!

Day 6:

Today we head to Aqaba, a coastal city on the Red Sea. The Red Sea gets its name from the reddish hue the nearby sandstone mountains cast onto the water. We’ll be getting on a boat to visit a couple of popular snorkel sights just off the coast of the city. There is a sunken ship and even an airplane, left beneath the water to encourage the coral to grow and thrive.

From Aqaba, only separated by the narrow Red Sea, it’s possible to see the Israeli town of Eilat. And further out there is a spot where you can also see a beach town in Egypt, the mountains from Saudi Arabia, and of course, Jordan. Four countries visible in one area! 

The snorkeling was fun, but the water was quite rough. I don’t love using the flippers, but today I was grateful to count on their assistance. After we finished snorkeling, we had some lunch on the boat and then the real fun began. Many of us were indulging in beer and wine, and finally the time had come for some dancing. Hatem and Darko DJ’d a bit for us, playing requests, and we did our best to dance along with the rocking boat. 😅 We also had a blast learning some Jordanian dances as well, tiring ourselves out in no time. 

After the boat trip, we had a fair amount of free time. Heather and I opted to walk around town towards the old markets and to Aqaba Castle. The castle was free to enter, and was delightful to walk around. I found a spot at the top to take a picture from, and all I could think about was the scene in Monty Python where the Frenchman is on the top of the castle shouting insults down towards the English. 🤣 I wish I posed better, lol.

Back at the hotel, we had some much needed showers, and myself and the other two women who bought fancy dresses decided to wear them for dinner. Yay Barbara and Alexandra! 🥰 We had our last briefing as a group, and the feels were starting to come out. Nobody was ready for this wonderful trip to come to an end. 🥹

We went for a dinner right across from the hotel and shared in many laughs, as was becoming customary for this group. I ordered kofte again, but this time, I got the tomato version. It was delicious, but if I had to choose, I’d go with the sesmi version:). Soon it was time to pay the bill, and before returning to the hotel, we went for a walk around town. It was so nice to walk off the large meal while enjoying the city lights.

Day 7:

It’s the last day or our trip 😭. The atmosphere felt a little heavy, knowing this was our last day together, but we carried on and were going to make the most of it. The day would require a lot of driving, but there were plenty of stops planned along the way. 

First up, Crystal Beach, which had gorgeous views of the Dead Sea. As the water receded, it left small pools of red and green, and the shore was streaked with ribbons of white salt. 

Another stop, and arguably the best stop of the day, was the Safi Kitchen for lunch. This is part of G-Adventure’s mission to give back to the local community and change lives through travel. This kitchen is a non-profit and provides work for the local village. The food comes directly from the farms they cultivate, and we got to sample their cooking. The food was fabulous! We all loved it and could tell just how fresh it was. The sautéed zucchini was to die for, and everyone licked their plates clean. The women who cook created a small cookbook with some of their recipies and if purchased, they offer a small bag of spices with it. I’d say a good majority of our group bought it. I can’t wait to try all the recipies when I get home!:)

The next stop is the Baptism Site, where John baptized Jesus in the Jordan River. Talk about a momentous location. The Jordan River being the natural border between Israel and Jordan, our guide, Hatem, made us promise not to jump in and swim to the other side. As much fun as that might be, I’m also not looking to be arrested, so I think we’re good. 🤣

We begin a walk towards the baptism site, which barely has any water anymore. There was a beautiful mosaic showing how the water flowed in the past, and allegedly, this was the exact spot Jesus was baptized. There were the remains of mosaics from an old church located just above the site. 

Further down the path we came to the Jordan River. It was much thinner than I had imagined. We walked towards the water’s edge which had a lovely viewing platform, and many of us dipped our hands in the muddy river. Just across the way, not even 30 yards away, was the Israeli shore, and there was a huge group being baptized in white robes. You could just sense the significance of this place… just being here, touching the water… it felt like a holy place. 

We took our time walking back towards the entrance and looked around in the gift shop. The only thing I was really interested in were the nativity sets, but they were all so delicate, quite expensive, and definitely not travel-proof. So I left empty handed, but with a full heart.  

Before reaching Amman, we stopped at our favorite Marouf Coffee and caffeinated up for the rest of the evening. Once back at the hotel, Heather packed and took a nap, and I cracked open one of the last beers I had bought and worked diligently on my blog. I have a lot of catching up to do. 😅

Soon it was time for our last dinner as a group, and we met everyone downstairs in the lobby. We went to Next Rooftop, which was in fact a rooftop bar, but was completely enclosed due to the cooler weather. Probably for the best, but I would’ve loved to have seen it open. The menu was mostly “American” food, and I ordered a burger. Hatem assured us the food was fantastic, but I’m always weary of “American” food in other countries. Let’s see how this burger is. 

ZAKI! Arabic for delicious, that burger was huge and juicy and was well worth it. 😋

Back to the hotel, we said our goodbyes in the lobby. It was a bittersweet moment, feeling sad to say goodbye, but feeling grateful to have met everyone on the trip. After most of the group parted ways, Heather and I stayed to discuss a day trip the following day with Hatem, and off to the hotel bar we went, to share a drink with our favorite Scottish couple, Paul and Avril. 

Turns out Tarek and Alexandra were there also, and we expanded our day trip plans tomorrow to include them. So it would be myself, Heather, Barbara, Tarek and Alexandra. What a fun post-trip extension this would be! 

Well, off to bed for some rest and to rally for one more day in Jordan! 🙂

Day 8:

Today is a bonus day in Jordan, thanks to our flight back being rescheduled for the next day! Heather and I had breakfast downstairs and we ran into some of our new friends! We were able to enjoy just a little more time with them before saying a final goodbye and beginning our last adventure in Jordan.

First up: Aljoun Castle, in the northern area of Jordan. This area is in the mountains and is super green! It’s the largest forest that Jordan has and the green mountains surrounding the hill the castle was built on gave the area a fairytale vibe. King Saladin is responsible for building the castle and hired Crusader engineers to construct it. The castle was built in 1148, had a functioning moat and 12 water tanks scattered throughout to supply the castle during a siege.

The castle had a pigeon tower where messages could be sent to nearby or faraway towns and cities. There are still pigeons living there to this day. I wonder if they know their ancestors were carrier pigeons? 🤔 This tower obviously reminded me of the owlery in Harry Potter…⚡️🦉. Overall, the castle was large and extremely well intact. I think it might be the biggest I’ve seen so far! Remarkably well preservered, including a small church inside, complete with a mosaic floor! I could almost imagine people living inside, and some staircases reminded me of the Game of Thrones.

On our way to the next stop, Tarek wanted a chance to try ordering coffee roadside style with hand signals. Our awesome driver, Samir, saw a shop and pulled to the side. Barbara took our orders and did an excellent job ordering via her hands. Thank you, Barbara! Hatem shared a sweet treat with us that was delicious, and we posed for a short video for the coffee shop. I guess we’ll be famous in Jordan! 

As we were approaching the next place, As-Salt City, we asked for a bathroom. We stopped by a mosque that also had the tomb of Joshua. It was a really long tomb because they weren’t quite sure where in the ground he was buried, but they know he was buried there. A surprise stop, adding to the many historical and religious sites we’ve seen. 

Oh, and the bathrooms. They were the squat toilet style, and of course, Heather dropped her sunglasses on the floor, which was sprayed with what we hope was water, and when she bent down to pick them up, her scarf dragged through the wet yuck. I think this was only my second time using this type of toilet, but my first was on a ferry. I’ll take a stationary squat toilet anyday over that, haha. 

As-Salt City is a UNESCO heritage site because of the old and preserved Ottoman buildings. We only had a short time here, but it was a beautiful city, and we walked through the market and spent some time in the main square. While in the market, we came across a woman making flat bread, and she showed us how it was done, and invited Barbara to try her hand at the process. She did pretty well! And as such, earned a certificate for preparing the flat bread, which was a verbal recognition and the prize of her handmade bread. How fun! 

While in the main square, we saw a film crew! Hatem asked, and it was a commercial for Ramadan. I wonder if we’ll be extras in it?

Something fun our driver kept saying was “If you shy, you die!” And I’ve decided I’m going to do my best to adopt this mantra. Sometimes I do shy away from things, but what is there to lose?

We were soon on our way back to Amman, but not before stopping for my favorite, Kunafa, at the world famous Habiba. OMG that desert is so yummy! I’m so glad I got a second chance to eat it. 

Back at the hotel, Heather and I rested a bit and I drank my last beer! I did it, Paul! Cheers! 🍻

Alexandra and I decided to wear our fancy dresses to dinner, for one last time. We got ready and Hatem sent me a location for the Uber. I noticed it was just a street name, and he asked me to send the driver’s phone number to him. This is gonna be good, lol. I had a feeling we’d be dropped off in the middle of some random street, and Hatem would have to find us. I shared my location with Hatem, which ended up being super helpful, as the Uber driver’s phone number didn’t work. I had no idea you could do that in WhatsApp.

When the Uber stopped on a dark street on a steep hill, our group was like, “uhhh… are we in the right spot?” And while I obviously had no idea where we were, I had faith in Hatem. He’d find us:). Sure enough, as we’re getting out of the car, here he comes, strolling down the street. Turns out, we were on the street behind the restaurant we were going to. 

The restaurant was AMAZING! Obviously a very local spot; there was not another tourist in sight. We would be eating Mansaf, the national dish of Jordan. Lamb slow cooked in yogurt for 4 hours and served on a bed of rice. More yogurt and ghee is drizzled on the top. 

The best part? You eat it with your hands! The waiter was prepared to offer us plates, silverware and even gloves to eat it, but we all graciously declined, and wanted to try it the local way. Hatem showed us how it was done, grabbing a piece of lamb and some rice and forming a ball with it in one hand, and then eating the ball. 

This was easily the very best dish we had all week. And what a fun experience! Someone from the restaurant came over to take our picture; they hang pictures of patrons all over the walls, and Hatem promised us to take a picture of the picture the next time he goes there. Not only did we get the picture taken, we made another video for their social media! That’s twice now we’ll be famous in Jordan. 🙂

After an absolutely wonderful evening, we finally had to say goodbye to Hatem. It didn’t feel real.. surely we’ll see him and everyone else tomorrow morning at breakfast, right? Right? We were sad driving away, and I’m almost certain I could see an air of sadness overcome Hatem’s face as well. We, without a doubt, had a lovely group of people, and we sincerely enjoyed each other’s company. It’ll be strange not traveling with them from here on out. 

Travel Day:

Heather and I went to the hotel breakfast and the lack of our friends was disheartening. We had gotten so used to seeing them everyday, and now it was just us. Our driver picked us up from the hotel at 7:30 and we were off to the airport. Getting through security and passport control was easy enough, and soon we were sitting by our gate.

I ended up with a row to myself and the flight was close to 5 hours to Paris. I did some work on the blog and took a much needed nap.

When we arrived in Paris, we were waiting for the hotel shuttle for what seemed like forever. Heather was able to call and they informed us the shuttle doesn’t run for a window in the middle of the day. Welp. Uber it is! So we get an Uber and make it to our very cute hotel, Jangle.

We almost decided to stay in and order room service once we realized that the tv was about the same size as the king bed, lol. But, we rallied and Ubered to a cute town on the other side of the airport, Roissy. We walked around a bit, but it was raining and we didn’t make it too long before heading to the restaurant Heather picked out when planning this trip.

Dinner was lovely, and well worth the excursion. Soon we were back to the hotel to pack up and get some sleep before parting ways in the morning. 🥲 I’d be off on a solo adventure to Luxembourg and Belgium, and Heather would be headed home after visiting Egypt for 2 weeks, and finishing up in Jordan. What a whirlwind!

Day 3

At breakfast, a couple from Australia, Vanesa and Darko, were kind enough to share a traditional Australian treat with Heather and I… Vegemite. 🤢 Have you ever tried it? It’s… shall we say, an acquired taste? I had the (mis)fortune of trying it while visiting some dear friends in New Zealand. I knew that it would be “interesting” when one of them had their phone out ready to film my experience. 😅

Well today, having learned from past experiences, I politely declined the generous offer, but I encouraged Heather to try. She seemed excited and dipped her pinky in a small gloop of the salty spread, and tasted just a tiny bit, and her face said it all: not exactly the deliciousness she was lead to believe it would be. 🤣 We all laughed and Vanesa and Darko explained how it’s given to children from an early age and people just get used to it. Before the fun was over, they managed to convince our guide to try it as well. 0 for 3; nobody enjoyed it. 😅 Maybe that just means we need to spend more time in Australia :). 

Before we arrived to the first stop, Hatem gave us all kinds of information on the bus. My favorite trivia fact is the unique Jordanian “drive-thru” coffee. There were men standing on the side of the road, waving a silver plates. They sell coffee, and you are able to order this coffee from your car as you’re approaching the coffee shop. Using only hand signals, you can ask for a specific number of coffees, ask for normal sugar, half sugar, even a teaspoon of sugar, or no sugar at all. After charading what you would like, the coffee seller will nod and confirm back to you before going to the roadside shop to prepare it. By the time you pull up and park your car, your coffee will be ready. Of all the amazing things we are learning in Jordan, this has to be one of my favorites. ☕️🤗

Our first stop would be Mt. Nebo, a pilgrimage site where Moses brought his people out of Egypt and first laid eyes on the Promised Land across the Jordan Valley. We were told that it would be windy up on the mountain, and that was probably the biggest understatement of the trip. 😅 We all felt like we’d nearly get picked up from the wind and be blown away to Israel. We could just barely make out the cities of Jericho and Jerusalem across the valley.

Three separate churches were built on top of one another at the summit of the mountain, the first being a monastery built by monks, the Byzantine church, and currently the Catholic Church, which has beautifully preserved the ancient mosaics.

We left Mt. Nebo and went to a mosaic workshop to learn how they make the works of art. One of the women gave an explanation of the process and we observed several artists in action, creating a variety of pieces. It looks like a painstaking process and I can’t imagine having the patience to finish one. Their work was incredibly beautiful, and a bit expensive. I was interested in a small garden table and it was 1,100JOD, or about $1,500. I’m sure it is worth it, but I just don’t have the budget for something like that. Although… I couldn’t help myself and instead bought a smaller wall hanging of the black iris, the national flower of Jordan, which symbolizes strength and resilience. 

After visiting the workshop, we drove a short way to the city of Madaba, made famous for its mosaics. The big point of interest here was a 6th century church with a mosaic map of the area. It showed all of the important pilgrimage sites such as Jerusalem, Bethlehem, the Jordan River, Jericho and more. While walking around Madaba, we tried fresh Medjool dates… my life is forever changed. I’ve enjoyed dates, but I had never had any this delicious. They were moist and flavorful where the dates I’ve had before are a bit drier and more chewy. 

Next up, Karak Castle! In the 12th century, the Crusaders had their eyes set on Jerusalem as their capital and wanted to create a stronghold nearby in order to exert their influence in the region. They attempted to enter the territory from the north, but were thwarted by Saladin. Discouraged, but not defeated, the Crusaders tried again, this time from the south, and successfully constructed the castle. Though, ultimately they were besigied and fell to Saladin, who became the first Sultan of Egypt and Syria. 

The rest of the afternoon was spent driving towards the one, the only, Petra! 😍 Before arriving to the city, we stopped by a building constructed around Moses Springs, where the city of Petra sourced their water. The Nabataean built an extensive network of clay pipes to bring water from this spring a distance of 5km into their city below in the canyon. These springs played an important role in the Bible as well; it was this precise location where Moses struck a rock and brought forth water to offer the Israelites.

The Nabataean people were a nomadic people originally from what is now Yemen. They moved to different places until they found the sandstone mountains located in the Edomite Kingdom. The Nabataeans wanted this area for themselves and began constructing Petra. They traded in spices and flourished until the Romans absorbed the city and added their own touch. 

Soon we arrived in Wadi Musa and before checking into the hotel, we had to rush a bit and purchase our “Petra By Night” tickets. Normally, people would do this the evening after visiting Petra all day. But the day we arrived was the last day they were doing the night experience before the weekend. So it was now or never. 

We got back to the hotel and had a lovely dinner prepared by the kitchen, a traditional Jordanian dish called Maqluba. Rice, veggies and chicken all cooked in one pot, and once it’s finished, the pot is flipped upside down onto the serving tray. One of our tour members, Barbara flipped the vegetarian one after watching the chef expertly perform the flip just one time. Excellent work, Barbara! 🥳

After dinner, it was time to gather our things for the “Petra by Night” experience. This was an additional option to walk through the candlelit canyon to the Treasury where we would enjoy a light show projected onto the giant tomb. As it dawned on me that this would be my very first impression of Petra, I was filled with a sense of awe and wonder, and I was confident that this would be a magical experience.

We showed our tickets and passed through the entrance, beginning our stroll through the canyon. I’m embarrassed to admit I thought Petra was only the Treasury, and I had no idea how long of a walk it was just to get there. The walk to the infamous building included several other points of interest illuminated by warm lights, and I began to imagine just how immense this place was. Soon we entered the narrow canyon, with only a sliver of sky above us. The candle-filled paper lanterns guided our way deeper and deeper into the glowing canyon. We meandered down the path, admiring the sparkling stars above us, and before we knew it, just around the corner, we got our first views of the incredible treasury. 

Wow. 

Just wow.

Honestly, I don’t think the light show was even necessary. To just sit in front of the iconic tomb lit by candles was enough. They passed out small cups of tea, and we watched a short presentation that projected different images onto the Treasury, explaining some of the history. I enjoyed it, but all I found myself wanting was more of the warm candle light, and to just soak in the beauty in silent reflection. Without a doubt, it was magical. ✨️✨️

Now it’s time to get some sleep and rest up before exploring the rest of Petra tomorrow. 😁

Day 4

With a quick breakfast, we were off to see Petra by day. On our way, Hatem pointed out a tall mountain with a white building on top. This was Aaron’s tomb, the brother of Moses. There is so much religious history in Jordan…

As we begin our walk towards the narrow canyon leading to the Treasury, Hatem explained some facts about the first few tombs we saw. Many of the tombs have a stepped design on top, a cultural trait the Nabataeans picked up while living and traversing through Syria. One tomb had obelisk like shapes on the top, an influence from Egypt. Walking down the road, there were some very obvious limestone cobbles making up the street, something the Romans added when they came through and took over. As we learned before, the city piped in its water from up the mountain and they even had a filtration system built in, giving the city access to clean water.

The Treasury tomb was built for the last Nabataean king and took 40 years to carve. They carved all of these impressive buildings from the top down. 

The site was filled with little shops selling everything from coffee and tea to magnets and jars filled with sand art. There were even a few children selling postcards, and they had a favorite phrase to use when denied: “You dropped something…” and we would look around confused as if we had actually dropped some of our belongings, and they would continue … “you dropped my heart.” It was so cute! But not cute enough to convince me to purchase anything. 😅

We did however, get pulled into a shop selling kohl, a natural eyeliner. The shop owner applied it for us and explained that once it was on it would last for 2 days and water wouldn’t make it run or come off. He claimed the tiny bottles he was selling would last 2 years. It it used to help protect the eyes from the sun and the desert sand. I was already interested in this and was especially excited to try it out. I bought some and have been practicing this whole trip on applying it properly, although I think I need a couple of YouTube videos and several more attempts before I feel truly comfortable with it. 

By the time we made it to the end of the main road, it was time for lunch and to part ways and explore on our own. Several of us decided to climb the 948 stairs to the Monastery: another very large and impressive tomb set back from all the others.

Along the way there were again many shops built right into the trail selling all kinds of goods and wares. Some people were offering “taxi” rides on mules, but these poor animals looked so overworked and too small to be carrying people up the uneven and sometimes slippery sandstone steps. 😔

We make it to the top and are rewarded with the majestic monastery. We do a celebratory photo shoot, trying to get the perfect jump shot in front of the megalith. After about 1,000 pictures, we decide we must have a least one good one, and continue exploring the area. 

On our way up the trail, we had run into Barbara, and she told us about a great lookout spot that was free and offered a birds-eye view of the monastery. We decide to head up that way and climb even more stairs. The higher we got, we began to notice just how windy it was up there. Time to take off the hat, lest the wind do it for me. 😅

We reach the top and enter the shelter, expecting to be asked for an entry fee of some kind, but much to our surprise, we were not. There was a gentleman inside selling beverages and snacks, should we want something, but he did not ask anything of us. We commented on how nice that is, to not be pestered, and it inspires me to give from the heart. He invited us to come in and enjoy the view. It was such a lovely shaded respite after hiking up in the sun. I decided to order a coffee to support the shopowner, and we enjoyed an extended break up there before bracing ourselves for the walk down. 

Back near the main road, we followed another trail towards the Royal Tombs. Along the way, we got a fabulous view of the Qasr Al-Bint and the Great Temple, in addition to a Byzantine church with more incredible mosaics. By this point, we are already exhausted, but we march on, determined to see everything we possibly can. 

We approach the Royal Tombs and explore inside several of them, in awe of the colors of sandstone. We marvel at the grandness of the entire site of Petra and slowly begin walking back towards the visitors center. 

Since nearly the first day of the trip, I had my eye on a beautiful Jordanian dress, and the time had come to do some shopping. I already saw the one I wanted and it was also the same shop Hatem told us was a good one to make purchases from. Perfect! Heather and I walk in and begin looking at different dresses and scarfs. I tried on the dress and I knew immediately I wanted to buy it. I just had to reconcile the price and be okay with spending a small chunk of money. 

The shop owner pulled out a scarf to match the dress and put it on me, completing the look. And he also helped Heather do the same, showing us how to properly put on the scarf in two different ways. 

Heather and I both walked out of the shop with some goodies and headed back to the hotel. She haggled so perfectly with a taxi driver in Arabic, and the rest of the taxi drivers and myself included, were so impressed! Nice work, Heather! “Hamsa! Hamsa!”

Back at the hotel, we do a quick refresh and head downstairs to meet the rest of the group for our briefing. Hatem is doing an excellent job keeping us updated about what we need to know for the following day, but tonight, I think the group is feeling the sleep deprivation and exhaustion of the trip. We are getting a bit slaphappy and silly and can barely contain our laughs. Although it made for a longer meeting, we got through it and soon it was time for dinner. 

We ate a restaurant in downtown Wadi Musa and I tried the kofta sesmi, a lamb and potato dish with a tahini/sesame sauce. It was so delicious! All the food we’ve had has been incredible and and I can’t wait to see what else is in store for us. 

After dinner, our waiter put on some music and began dancing, getting Barbara up and teaching her a few moves. The waiter was VERY good at shaking his booty, and he had all of us laughing and clapping along while he was encouraging all of us to get up and dance with him. A few of us did, and we danced the night away. Well, until we tired out about 15 minutes later and cashed out. 🤣 Some of us wanted to check out the cave bar before going to bed, and it had already been a long day, otherwise, we may have kept dancing well into the night. 

The cave bar was so beautiful! Exactly as it sounds, a bar built into a sandstone cave. Several of us sat around a circle and enjoyed a very expensive beverage in the ambiance before heading back to the hotel for some much needed sleep. Hatem told us that in the busy season, there is barely room to even stand inside. I’m so glad we’re here in winter. 🤗

Day 5

This morning our first stop would be Little Petra, about a 15-20 minute drive from Wadi Musa. This place was used as a guesthouse and meeting place when the Nabataeans would manage trade deals or visitors from outside.

This site had a place for visitors to tie up their camels, as the entrance was an extremely narrow canyon, and no camel would fit inside. I’m sure this was a form of security as well. You could pass maybe 2 across through the short and narrow entrance, and if anyone attempted an attack, the Nabataeans could easily pick off the aggressors. 

Inside the site were several huge water tanks for storing fresh water and meeting rooms carved out of the rock. Inside one of the carvings was a beautiful fresco painted on the ceiling much later in time. I can only imagine what it looked like when it was new. 

The next stop would be the infamous Wadi Rum Desert. On the drive, Hatem filled us in on so many details and facts. Something many of us were excited to see were the film locations for Star Wars, the Martian, and Aladdin. There were also two films being filmed inside the desert in 2024, but Hatem didn’t know which ones… guess we’ll have to keep our eye out! 

Surprisingly, the desert actually contains the largest source of water in Jordan. Being a very dry land, the water is precious and is actually piped all the way up from the desert to Amman, making it the largest supplier of water to the capital. 

The people living in the desert are the Bedouin, a nomadic people who live in different camps spread out across the dry red tundra. Camels are very important to the Bedouin and are invested in like some people might invest in gold. 

As we got closer to the desert, we stopped by the only train station in Jordan. There once was a larger rail network, but it was destroyed during the Arab Revolt against the Ottomans. However, a small section still operates, running supplies between Wadi Rum and Aqaba. The train is from the 1900s and looks like it. It almost reminded me of the toy trains some people put out at Christmas time. 

We soon reach a stopping point where our trusty bus will leave us and we will get into the back of 3 pickup trucks to drive into the desert. Here we go! Driving straight into the desert, there was a sandy haze that gave the effect of layered mountains. The closest were dark and clear to see, where the ones farther away gradually appeared lighter and lighter until they disappeared entirely into the hazy horizon. 

We arrrived to our camp and brought our things inside. I was expecting to be set up in cloth tent accommodations, but it was definitely more like a lodge or hotel room. Slightly disappointing after imagining what kind of magical Harry Potter glamping tent we might end up in, but it was beautiful nonetheless, and very comfortable. 

After we ate an amazing lunch prepared by the community, we got back onto the pickup trucks to begin a desert tour. Our first stop was a tent that was selling various goods and we were invited in for some tea. Hatem explained a bit about the different products the Bedouin make and gave us a chance to purchase some. Outside the shop there was a really fascinating mosque. It was a small area designated by a very small rock wall and it was pointed in the direction of Mecca. Another amazing thing to see was the cliff inscription written by the Nabataean people. It included images of camels headed in the direction of the trade route, and written words in Aramaic.

Next up were some of the movie set locations, including Aladdin, Star Wars, and the Martian. We then moved on to a neat area where we all shouted and heard the echo come back to us. I’ve never quite heard something like that before. Nearly 16 people all shouting the same thing created quite the effect when it echoed back to us.

At our echo stop, we sampled a Bedouin blush, which is crushed sandstone. Very orangey, but once rubbed in and properly blended, it looked nice! Hatem applied it to almost all of our cheeks, but a couple people slowly worked there way to the back of the crowd… I see you, Darko!

Our next stop was a special sunset spot. When we arrived, Barbara and I changed into our fancy Jordanian dresses and had a small photo shoot. As the sun was setting, three camels were crossing down below and were lining up perfectly with the golden rays of the setting sun. What a beautiful way to end the day. 🤗

Back at the camp, we had a brief moment to sit around the campfire before experiencing a national dish called Zarb. This food is cooked on a three tiered platter, with rice, meat, and vegetables making up the individual tiers. It is then placed inside a sand oven, buried a few feet deep in the sand, and cooked for four hours. 

We were invited to watch the men pull this savory meal from the sandy earth, and as soon as it was exposed the smell began to permeate the air. This was going to be delicious. Even though we were pretty much in the middle of nowhere, the meals provided in the camp were extensive. Bowls and bowls of fresh salads, and of course tonight, heaping portions of rice, lamb, chicken, and veggies. 

After dinner many of us went on a stargazing adventure. Now, let me preface this story with a description of what we thought we were getting. We all imagined taking the trucks out into a spot deep in the desert where there was no light pollution. And here, the guides would set up a few telescopes, and we could lay down in the sand and admire the stars above, or we could use the telescopes for a closer view. 

Well, our pickups begin drivings towards the light pollution, and we’re all left a bit curious as to what we’ve paid for, and surely we’ll pass through the town and back into the desert, right? 

On Heather’s truck, they began joking that maybe we are headed to a planetarium to watch a movie about the stars. 😅 When we arrive to the spot, we go into a building and are handed a thick card that looks like a hotel key, and are told to go next door and give this to the guy. Confused, we do as we’re told, and we walk into a room set up with chairs and…

…a projector showing an image of the stars on the wall. 🤣 We all begin cracking up… barely able to contain our giggles, so much so that many of start to get watery eyes. This can’t possibly be all there is to the evening, but we’re all a bit worried and having a good laugh anyways. We’re here, and it will be what it will be. As we’re trying to control ourselves, we find out that Barbara has a water bottle filled with wine and travel sized squirt bottles with filled with tequila. Well, if we are only going to watch a movie, then we should have a good time anyways with Barbara’s goods. 🍸🍷 This makes us giggle even more, and I’m sure everyone else in the room was wishing we’d just be quiet. 😅

Soon a gentleman walks in and begins by asking “I’m sure you’re wondering…” And Barbara replies quite loudly, “Yes!” Which makes us all giggle some more… it’s uncontrollable at this point. I’m starting to feel a bit bad for everyone that has to listen to us 🤣. The gentleman then explains that yes, we will be watching a short animation, but then we will be headed outside.

The animation was actually quite lovely and I think pulled us all back to our senses. It began with an image of a woman laying on the grass, and started to zoom out. Each zoomed out frame included the distance in feet, meters, kilometers, all the way to light years. It gave an excellent perspective of just how enormous the universe is. It certainly made me appreciate the ability to see things through the telescope. Once the animation finished zooming out, it zoomed in, all the way to the tiniest known parts of the human body. I’m not sure if I feel more insignificant after watching the short film, knowing the Earth is a tiny pinprick within the university, or if I feel overwhelmed with gratitude for being conscious and alive, created from so many tiny pieces that allow me to experience this wide and wonderful world. 

After the video, we head just outside to an area that has barriers set up around it. This is where the telescopes are located.  I thought we would be getting in vehicles and going further into the desert. There was clear and obvious light pollution from all around. How could we possibly see much? 

The four telescopes were set to view the Orion Nebula, Sirius, a star cluster, and the big whammy, Jupiter! The storms on Jupiter were clearly visible as two stripes that went across the entire planet, and this was by far, my favorite thing look at. The Orion Nebula was second, as it was possible to see the hazy blue hydrogen cloud surrounding it. 

Once everyone had their fill of looking through the telescopes, our guide showed us how to find the North Star and a variety of constellations, including Leo! I hope I can remember how to find it:). 

About an hour passes, and we head back to our pickup trucks and back to our camp. We were hoping to have time to sit around the camp fire and enjoy the even darker night sky here, but we got back nearly at 11pm and I for one, wanted to get some rest before the next day. So long, Wadi Rum! 🥹

Monday:

Our Airbnb was more like a hotel/guest-house, and our stay included breakfast! The dining room was in a separate building, so with bleary eyes and hungry bellies, we got dressed and walked across the courtyard, anxious for that first sip of coffee. They had a short but diverse menu with the traditional Irish breakfast, smoked salmon, and of course, pancakes. Jaimee and I sneakily brought out the little nun-made Irish cream and sampled the deliciousness for the first time. Yum! What a fun way to start the day. 

Next up was a trip to one of the Aran Islands, Inis Oírr. The boat ride was not for the faint of heart. Now, I KNOW it wasn’t comparable to the Drake crossing en route to Antarctica, but I’m quite certain it was the closest I’ve ever experienced to something that intense. Water was crashing up over the sides and windows of the boat, and the staff were “walking” (more like struggling to stand upright) around passing out small bags for those getting sick or feeling like they might. I have to say, even though I consider myself to have a strong stomach, this ride was testing the iron clad reputation of my guts. 😅

When we arrived, we opted to rent bikes to ride around the island, and after a false start, one flat tire, and a new rental, we set out on our way. Our first stop was the Plassey Shipwreck. This huge freighter ship washed ashore back in 1960, and has sat guard over the coast ever since. We walked right up to it, some people venturing inside where the hull had corroded away. We spent some quality time here, enjoying the wind on our faces and the fresh air, trying to settle our stomachs before moving on to the next spot. 

We rode back the way we came and ventured up a pretty steep hill in search of an old fort. It was pretty cool! It looked ancient, and the views from the hill were amazing! The color of the water was almost a tropical turquoise with the sun peeking through the clouds; definitely not something I’d expected. After taking in our surroundings and posing for a mandatory selfie, we head out in search of the ruins of a 10th century church. I was really excited to find this one, but the map we had wasn’t great, and there weren’t any signs to help us. We meandered through the “downtown” and up a windy and hedge lined road, catching views of cows, fields, and the ocean below. Jaimee stopped and asked a local man for directions and confessed she couldn’t understand a word he was saying 🤣. Thank you for trying, friend! So we kept going, hoping we were on the right track. There were only so many roads on this little island, how far off could we be? After a few more minutes, we decided to call it a loss, and head back towards town, as our departure time was nearing. We had a little more time, and rode along the coast which provided spectacular views and eased the loss of not finding the church. 

As I’m writing this blog, I have looked up another map of the island, and I think we were sooo close to the old church when on our way to the shipwreck. I’m bummed to have missed it, but I suppose it just wasn’t meant to be this time around. I’ll leave that for my next trip out there:). 

The ferry ride back to the mainland was much smoother than on the way there, and it was almost relaxing to feel the ebb and flow of the ocean as we sped through the waves. It was a rare moment, quiet and contemplative, in an otherwise very busy itinerary. 

Once back on the mainland, we returned to our Airbnb to relax and refresh…

…But not for long; our day was just getting going. Up next up: the cliff walk trail to the Cliffs of Moher! It’s walkable from Doolin, with the right mentality and stamina. I was at first, slightly bummed, because I wanted to be sure to see the cliffs, but also really intrigued by making the long trek there. It was a risk: would we make it that far? Or would we turn around before reaching our end goal? 

We begin our journey up a steep paved road to the trail head, and I’m almost immediately tired. I picked the wrong shoes for sure; I went with ankle booties that were waterproof and had more traction than my sneakers, which were my only other option. Spoiler alert, by the end of the day, my feet were KILLING me. Is anyone surprised? 😂

Anyways, this walk was AMAZING. And easily one of my top experiences in Ireland. We walked right alongside the cliff, listening to the crashing waves hit the steep terrain, occasionally being sprayed by the ocean mist. We came upon some spectacular views, and soon I was okay with the possibility of not actually making it all the way to the Cliffs of Moher. It was so lovely to be outside, enjoying the serene nature of Ireland. We had planned to do some hiking earlier in the trip, but we were rained out. So now, getting to experience some of the elements, walking next to a dear friend, in a place as mystical and magical as Ireland, well, this was shaping up to be quite the afternoon. 🙂

Eventually we make it to what looks like the end of the trail, nowhere near the Cliffs of Moher, as far as we can tell. We’re a bit stumped, as it looks like the trail continues on, but it is completely blocked off. Plenty of signs say no trespassing, and no walking on the road. What to do? Me, the rule-follower, was prepared to turn around, disappointed after having made it so far. Jaimee, with her “let’s-do-what-we-came-here-to-do-attitude,’ is ready to jump the fence. As we are debating and contemplating our next move, a cop shows up and asks if we need help. I guess we looked pretty confused, haha. And to my bewilderment, he told us to hop the fence! We had just seen someone do it… the cop explained the trail down to a point was totally fine, but there was a section that was not good at all and should be avoided further up. 

With the approval of the local law enforcement, on we went! Successfully hopping the fence, we followed the trail down, and as we were arriving at the viewpoint, the person who had gone before us was already on his way back. Meaning, we would have this place to ourselves. And HOLY COW! What a true blessing this was. WHAT A VIEW! It was absolutely one of the most magical places I’ve ever been. Dramatically tall cliffs, the wild ocean stretching as far as the eye can see, a truly rugged landscape that makes you feel lucky to be alive, to bear witness to such an awe-inspiring place. Needless to say, we spent a long time here, soaking in the vibes and enjoying the breathtaking views. I felt so lucky sharing this special place with Jaimee. We always find ourselves where we need to be, and traveling with her is such a gift that I cherish with every ounce of my being. I already can’t wait to see what’s next for us. 🙂

We eventually pull ourselves away and begin trekking back towards Doolin. It wasn’t easy to say goodbye to that place, but it will forever live in our hearts and memories. 

There was a particular part of the trail that had an extreme water spray situation. One we successful navigated on the way out, and now had looming over our heads on our way back. It was such a silly thing, and quite honestly, as fun as splashing in a puddle as a kid. As goofy as it was, it will also be a memory not easily forgotten from this day. There was no way around it, except for through it. And although we got pretty soaked, we dried off eventually. There’s a life lesson in there somewhere: sometimes you have to go through it, and while you might not feel great at first, eventually you will be okay.

The sun had been peaking out here and there the whole trail, but on our way back, she came out in earnest. All of a sudden, we were strolling in the golden glow of the setting sun, which made the water glisten and sparkle. And would it be a day in Ireland if we didn’t see a rainbow? Not on our trip, hehe. Number 8 for the win! 🌈🌈🌈

We had dinner at a pub back in Doolin, and it was SO good. Our appetite was HUGE after the day we had. We were extremely hungry and let’s just say, a cold pint of Guinness is a great way to replenish electrolytes. We’ll sleep good tonight…

Tuesday:

Today we begin a long road trip towards the Ring of Kerry, in the southwest of Ireland. Boasting dramatic views and plenty of places to stop and check out various viewpoints, it was shaping up to be another very long, but fulfilling day. 

We happened to pass through a town called Adare, and it was so stinking cute! It wasn’t on any of our lists, but we are sure glad we didn’t miss it. It was so cute that we decided to park and walk around for a bit. We walked through a picturesque park with gorgeous flowers, including purple roses covered in shimmering rain drops. The town had a beautiful stone church and just across the street, some traditional thatched buildings. 

We stopped in a coffee shop for a caffeine hit, and they had Salvadoran coffee beans! I couldn’t believe it! That is so rare to come across, and I instantly felt so grateful and excited to try the coffee. Delicious, of course, and so with our beverages, we wandered through a tourist market, where there were much needed bathrooms. We quickly realized this was used for all the giant tour buses, and we decided to head out quickly to avoid the crowds. 

With one last stop for snacks at a grocery store, we got back to the car and continued on our way. 

Next up, we made our way to Ross Castle, which we had apparently arrived about 5 minutes too late for the tour. Bummer! The next one was too far out, and we had to be at our Airbnb by a certain time. We did get to walk the grounds, and check out the one room museum they had off the main entrance. Here, Jaimee spotted something that made our journey well worth it, tour or not. It was a little model of the castle with figurines and buildings. Not much to note, but upon further inspection, there was a scene depicting the construction of the castle. There was a pulley system being used to hoist up large stones… and well, one poor soul was trapped beneath a fallen stone, complete with a pained expression on his face and even blood. I imagine the artist behind the model and I wonder how much they giggled, adding in a little secret. I bet not everyone notices… I certainly didn’t, not until Jaimee pointed it out. You never know what you’ll find! Before leaving, we had a peppermint tea outside, under a roofed lounge area, as the rain gently fell from the sky. Another simple, yet surreal moment, sitting in the shadows of a great castle. 

We continued on our way towards Muckross Abbey, something I found on Google maps that looked absolutely gorgeous. Google maps took us to a parking lot, and it looked to be just across the street. As we headed over, we were ambushed by a man trying to convince us to ride with him in his horse drawn carriage. Google said it was a 5 minute walk, but this guy was telling us it was 3 miles away! Huh? No way, we’re good, and we can walk. So we start down the path, and I don’t see it anywhere. I’m checking the phone, and it does all of sudden, seem a lot farther than we initially thought. I was so confused because I read reviews and looked at the map, it looks like it’s literally just off the main road! Grrrrr. 

Back to the car we go, and I look at Google maps again, out of the judging eyes of the horse guy… 😅 And behold! It looks like there may be a second entrance! Just a ways further up the main road. So we decided to check it out… it was on the way, after all. We arrive, and this parking lot is teeny tiny, and there are several horse drawn carriage guys. We definitely have no interest in paying them to take us slower and for much more money than our own two legs. We graciously deny their advances, and start walking towards the Abbey ruins. 

Peeking out between the lush green foliage, we begin to see the beautiful stone building. It’s always difficult to pick a favorite part from a trip like this, but exploring these abandoned ruins makes it into at least the top 3 for me. Maybe it was the forest it was situated in, so lush and green. Or the gentle rain falling down, casting a mysterious and ethereal glimmer over the stone walls, or maybe it was envisioning what this place must have looked like in its heyday. We had free reign to walk almost every inch of this place, including the upper levels, and the biggest showstopper the Abbey had to offer: a gorgeous columned patio, with an amazingly large tree right at the center. It grew straight up through the top of the building. This was what drew me here once I saw pictures online. And yes, Jaimee and I had our tree-hugging moment, to be grounded in nature and to be connected to a special place. 

The rest of our day was spent driving the Ring of Kerry to our Airbnb. It was particularly rainy and cloudy, not offering us too many views. We were certain there would be fantastic and breathtaking stops along the drive, and we were lucky to catch glimpses here and there, but mostly we saw clouds and rain.

We arrive at our Airbnb and quickly go to town to grab some dinner, lest we wait too long and the kitchens close. We were seated directly in front of some older women celebrating a birthday with a particularly spicy candle that was more like a sparkler that would burn out on its own. The birthday girl tried to blow it out and ended up blowing the sparks straight at her sister across the table🤣. Jaimee and I joined in singing happy birthday, and she actually stayed and chatted with us for a bit before leaving for the night. What a way to be seen and included in the local life. You just never know what’s store….

Wednesday:

Early to rise! Time for breakfast and as early a start as we can muster to see alll the things. 

First up, the Kerry Cliffs! Much like the Cliffs of Moher, but, you know, different. Some may say they are less dramatic, but Jaimee and I both loved them! To start, we actually had some sunshine! The most we had the entire trip, and having entered town in the fog and rain, everything seemed new and exciting with the sun shining down. 

From the top of these cliffs, you could see the Skellig Islands, which we would have loved to visit, but there really never is enough time to do everything. It was still really neat to see them off in the distance. And the WIND. Omg, the wind was insane! They had signs warning that if it was strong enough, to not go any higher. And I can easily see why. I felt like it could nearly blow me right over the cliff ledge. Thankfully, there was a fence. We spent a long time up on these cliffs, enjoying the newfound sun, the wind, the birds, the color of the water, the islands, and each other. How often do you get to just be? To just take it all in? This is one of my favorite gifts of traveling… when your only plan is to see new things, and looking out at a new landscape is enough. To not think about your to-do list or worry about things back home, your only responsibility is to enjoy the moment. When was the last time you did that? 

After the cliffs, we decided to go to Valentia Island. There were a few points of interest here, one of which being Tetrapod fossils! Cooool! But before we got to those, we made our way to the tallest point on the island, Geokaun Mountain. While on the way, we saw a sign for handmade candles… so we followed it! Down the tiniest road, clearly only wide enough for one vehicle, and it looked like it went on and on to nowhere. Until, we rounded a corner and saw a small building with a little handmade sign. We walked inside and the views from the little store room were incredible, and the candles were lovely. After enjoying the various scents and views, we got back in the car and continued our way, up and up and up. 

After paying an entry fee for the mountain, we drove up to the first viewpoint. A short cliff walk that was certainly beautiful, but after both the Cliffs of Moher and the Kerry Cliffs, these seemed to be small and while beautiful, not as impressive as the others. 

We continue up the road and parked the car, and walked around the top. We trudged through the wet grass to reach the tallest point, where a big phone tower was situated. It was a slightly better 360 view, but we walked back down to the main area and found a seat a on the wall of a picnic area.  As we did, a group of young guys popped down next to us with beverages, and Jaimee and I just took one look at each other, and she ran to the car to get our beers. We had to drink them sooner or later, as we’re flying out the next day! But guess who didn’t have a bottle opener? Us. Rookie mistake, lol. But the guys lent us theirs, and we all shared a brewski while admiring a glorious view of the island and town below. I just love unexpected moments like these. You could never predict them or force them to happen, but when they do, they mark your soul in a special way.

We came back down the mountain and began our journey back towards our last Airbnb of the trip. Along the way we stopped by a couple of ring forts from medieval times. They look just like they sound: a giant stone circle. One had different rooms on the inside, and even a storage space built into the wall. Or that’s what I believe it to be :). It was pretty epic, exploring these forts and climbing on top of their tallest walls and looking out towards the rolling green hills. 

We continue our drive, and of course, see a rainbow! We were passing a gorgeous lake and were planning to pull over anyway, to take a break and enjoy the scenery. As we were getting out of the car, we noticed the sneaky rainbow playing peek-a-boo with the clouds. Apparently, this stop was meant to be! 

Back in the car we go, and our journey brought us through rain showers, and more rainbows! Honestly, Hawaii boasts about being the Rainbow State, and that may be true within the US territory, but Hawaii doesn’t hold a candle to Ireland’s rainbows. Not by a long shot. 

As we approach our Airbnb, we look around for a dinner spot, but ultimately decide we want a chill dinner before our travel day. We were simply exhausted by this point, so off to the grocery store we went. We supply up with all sorts of random findings, complete with a pack or two of unique Oreos and brown bread :D. 

Back at the Airbnb, we ask our host for some supplies and we create a potluck style dinner with French bread, butter, meat, and our favorite, oxtail soup. It was so peaceful, and we celebrated another beautiful journey together while drinking our last two beers. 

With full bellies, weary souls, and happy hearts, we showered and got ready for bed. Time for this journey to come to an end. Tomorrow we head home, but not without memories that will last us a life time. Here’s to the next grand adventure! 

Time for a new adventure! One of my travel besties, Jaimee, suggested we go on a trip late July, and we took off on August 27th for Shannon, Ireland! We threw around several ideas, but we let the world and the vibes guide our decision making process, and Ireland just felt like the right choice. I have to thank Jaimee for doing nearly all the planning, as leading up to the trip, I was sick and doing my best to rest and recover so I’d be in tip-top shape for the adventure :). Thank you!

August 27th: Travel Day 

This trip started with a sniffly nose and a rough cough, having just gotten over a cold/flu the previous weekend. Determined to have a great time, I packed my bag with a mini pharmacy and began my journey to Shannon, Ireland. I thankfully made the flight from Boston to JFK, which was looking worse and worse the closer it got. I was already identifying alternative routing through LGA, which is far from ideal. If that were the case, I’d have to get myself over to JFK. Oh the joys of “non-rev” travel, hehe. 

I landed in JFK around 3pm, but my bag had to be checked, so I ran down to the baggage claim to retrieve my carryon, and back up through security. It was fairly busy and seemed to take forever to get through. But, by that time, Jaimee had landed and was walking towards the central atrium of Terminal 4. We were on the phone trying to figure out where we both were when all of a sudden, I spotted her walking straight towards me! I was so excited to see her beautiful face after nearly 3 years! Our last trip together was our incredible week in Egypt back in 2022. 

Well, our flight to Shannon didn’t leave until almost midnight, so we had some serious time to kill. We had no problem chatting and catching up on life, love, travel, and everything in between. Soon it was within the window to get into the lounge… I found a Chase Sapphire Lounge and haven’t been in one yet, and couldn’t wait to experience it! I’ve heard excellent things about the one in the Boston airport, so I was eager to get in. And it was worth the wait and certainly didn’t disappoint! Jaimee and I both had a lovely shower before the red-eye, we had some food and drinks, and enjoyed the calm, relaxed environment of the lounge. 

After a refreshing stay in the lounge, it was time to walk what felt like a mile to our departure gate. We settled into our seats and hoped we’d sleep on the 6 hour flight so we could hit the ground running upon arrival. 

Friday: Arrival Day

We landed early, and as we were on our way to customs, we were greeted by a rainbow! What a special way to begin our trip! I joked/suggested, “What if we see a rainbow every day here?” Stay tuned to see if we did:). The Shannon airport is tiny, so we got through customs and into the arrivals hall quite quickly. We got our rental car sorted, and as we waited for it to be brought around, we snagged a much needed coffee to shake off the jet lag. 

Our first stop would be Galway! I was excited to see this city, having heard it mentioned in many songs, and I just had a feeling I would love it. My first city in Ireland outside of Dublin! As we roll into town, I quickly realized how very not city-like it is, hehe. It’s so tiny! For some reason, I had a vision in my head of a larger and livelier city, but Galway is small, quaint, beautiful, and quiet. We drove straight through town to find free parking alongside the promenade. Thanks Jaimee for doing that bit of research! 

We parked, hopped out of the car and a begin a slow walk towards town. The views were insanely beautiful, and the color of the water was stunning! There were many hues of deep sea blue complemented by lighter, greenish-aqua colors. The salty, briny breeze encompassed us as we tried to take in everything we were seeing. 

We finally make it to town and walk up the busy and very touristy main street, complete with picturesque buildings and celebratory flags hanging above the pedestrian-only street. Hunting for a place to have lunch, we strolled past several pubs and restaurants, but decided we wanted something quick and light, planning on a dinner in just a few hours. We stopped by the Dough Brothers, a well known pizza joint in Galway. Not exactly a traditional Irish meal, but it was delicious! And hit the spot. A light snack to keep us going until dinner. Oh, and of course, we had to have some Murphy’s ice cream! 

We took our ice cream and sat besides a raging river that led straight into the ocean. So many people were out, sitting on the edge of the stone wall or on the grass, simply enjoying the outdoor space and the sun that was peeping through the clouds. What a gift to be still and simply enjoy our surroundings, taking it all in. So different than being at home in our busy routines where it’s easy to rush through a moment like this. 

After our short tour of Galway, we head back to the car and drive almost another 45 minutes to our B&B for the next two nights. The house was located down a small side-street that had ocean access! We were so close to the water! And looking out of our bedroom windows, we saw cows in VERY green pastures. Certainly a lovely place to spend a couple of days. 

Agianst our better judgement, we decided to lay down for a “quick” nap. Well, before we knew it, it was nearly 8:00pm, but with the sun setting officially at 8:30, we decided on a much required walk to the water’s edge. 

Finally ready for a late dinner, we head to the closest pub, and head inside. Unfortunately, we are told that they stop serving food at 8:30pm, and we’ve just missed it. Oh no. Haha. I suppose it’ll be liquid dinner for us… some Irish stout! A singer and guitarist were setting up for live music, so we grabbed some beer and sat down. The beer staved off the hunger, just slightly, but we were craving the snacks we had bought at the grocery store earlier. 

Back at the B&B, we busted open the instant oxtail soup, essentially a broth, and I found some brioche buns in the “for everyone” section of the cabinet. Holy moly was the broth delicious!  Not exactly the dinner we had hoped for, but it got the job done. We had some tea and a shower and off to bed we went. The real journey begins tomorrow!

Saturday: Day 1

Goodmoring, Ireland! We slept in a bit, as it felt all too natural with the rain and gray outside our windows. We had coffee and tea at the B&B as step one of what would be a very long day. Next stop was a breakfast spot called Pota, where we were sheltered from the rain as we enjoyed our food and a second coffee, of course. And now, officially and fully fueled, we began our day of sight-seeing. 

Jaimee had planned on us driving the Sky Road, but as we got closer, the rain got heavier. We ultimately decided to skip it, at least for now, and instead head to something we could do indoors: The Kylemore Abbey. Originally built in the late 1800s as a private residence with all the modern amenities. The man behind the project was Mitchell Henry MP, who was a wealthy landowner and one with pride in Ireland. His goal in constructing Kylemore was to show what could be achieved in the remote lands of western Ireland. It’s currently owned and run by the Benedictine community. 

We parked the car and started walking towards the entrance when we were blessed with a gorgeous view of the mansion from across the water. On a clear, calm day, the reflection of the house glimmers on the water’s surface. Too bad we had drizzle all day. Or was it to our advantage? The mountain behind the house had several visible waterfalls due to the rains we had been getting all morning. It was a gorgeous sight to take in. 

After getting a pre-soak from the rain on the way to the entrance, we go inside the house for a self-guided tour. The exhibits were really neat; there were video screens behind mirrors and talking portraits. It reminded me of something straight out of Harry Potter! And there was a beautiful, very feminine, pink sitting parlour, and all I could think about was my Nana’s “princess room,” where the grandkids got to sleep, and it was decorated with pinks, frills, unicorns, whatever a princess may want, it was there. This parlour was perhaps the adult version? Not a princess room, but a room fit for a queen?

As we finished up inside the house, we decided to walk to the miniature gothic church that mimicked its much larger inspirations. Walking up to it was like walking up to an enormous cathedral, but it was as if it were a scale model. And rather than gargoyles, this church was decorated with angels. Inside, there were marble columns with the marble being sourced from all over Ireland: green (Connemara), black (Kilkenny), red (Cork), and white (Tyrone). 

Further along down the road was a gigantic rock in the shape of an iron. Legend has it one of the local Gods threw it at another God and that’s where it landed. It is now a wishing rock. You need to pick up a small stone, and while thinking of your wish, lean your back against the rock, and toss the stone over the tip of the rock. If your stone goes over the top, your wish will come true. Jaimee and I both tried, but only one of us was successful. I’ll give you a hint; it wasn’t me, haha. 

On our way back, we considered taking a shuttle to the walled Victorian gardens, but we didn’t have a lot of time to spare, and it was raining again, surprise surprise. We opted to walk around the gift shop and to grab a quick snack for lunch in the cafe. The food was incredible! We had a sweet potato soup with coriander and an apple and strawberry crumble with warm custard on top. And we also snuck away with a small bottle of Irish cream the nuns make on site. We enjoyed a taste of that a few mornings on our trip. 

Next up was a sheep farm to see a demonstration of how sheep dogs work. It was truly amazing to watch Rex, the dog, herd all the sheep. His owner gave him commands, speaking in a normal voice, and the dog was so far away, it was hard to believe Rex could hear him. And it was raining fairly heavily. I definitely got soaked, and wished I had my rain pants with me. We were told that Rex wasn’t even half of his full speed; I cannot imagine how fast he could be in clear, dry weather! 

After the demonstration,  we drove further up the main road towards Westport, stopping by a waterfall on the side of the road. It was lovely! Always worth a stop! Westport turned out to be a wicked cute town… and, while we were parking the car, we saw a rainbow! We walked around town for a bit, and ended up grabbing a pint at a little pub, attempting to warm up and dry off from a rather wet day of activities. We weren’t the only ones with that same idea; it was quite crowded and cozy inside.

Soon we were on the road again, back towards our B&B, having learned from last night that restaurants stop serving food early, we wanted to be back in time for a real dinner. We continued to see several rainbows, here and there, and the grand total, just for one day was a whopping 6! Including yesterday’s rainbow, that’s already 7, one for every day we have in Ireland. Unbelieveable! Hehe.

We had dinner at Donnelly’s, a seafood restaurant about 20 minutes from our B&B in Barna. I had the seafood chowder, Jaimee had the oysters, and we shared a crusted goats cheese salad. Undeniably, THE very best goat cheese salad either of us had ever eaten. We were nearly drooling over the salad as we ate it, and there was absolutely nothing left on the plate by the time we were finished.

Just as we thought our first full day couldn’t get any more full, we went to the common area of the B&B for a peppermint tea before dinner. And we ran into the other two guests staying there, Sue and Mike. Well, turns out Sue and Mike are pirates! Of the Caribbean! Haha. I’m not joking. 

They met while working on tall ships, you know, the big ones with the sails, i.e. pirate ships, in the Caribbean! I’m already super intrigued by them, and our conversation swells and grows and becomes even more fascinating. Sue lives in a beautiful cottage in the same town that Jane Austen lived, and we learned that Sue and Mike read to each other, as we discussed how authors from the past and even Shakespeare, wrote their stories to be told to people, not read by people. I had never truly thought about that, and now I’m obsessed with the idea, and may finally try some audio books, at least, while I’m doing a long-run. 

We also began discussing a book where a phrase, “the thin place,” was introduced to Sue and Mike. Essentially it’s a place where the veil between this physical earthly world and the emotional/spiritual world is thin, giving one a sense of serenity, or a feeling of “this is where I need to be.” I have felt this in the past, perhaps my most notable moment was my time hiking the Acatenango Volcano in Guatemala.

One last little bit of fun from Mike and Sue. They left us with a recommendation to go to a seaweed soak in a barrel of hot ocean water! I’d never heard of this, and they happened to stumble across it, and they took full advantage of the experience. It is now on my bucket list! And it’s on my list for the next trip to Ireland, whenever that may be. I’m sure there are seaweed hot tubs elsewhere, and should I stumble upon one, you know what I’ll be doing:). 

Sunday: Day 2

We woke up leisurely again this morning, so difficult not to when the weather is inviting you to stay calm and cozy. Our original plan today was to head back towards Westport to hike Croagh Patrick, but again, we felt thwarted by the rain. It just wasn’t the right weather to go for a hike. However, we were corrected a few times. It’s not about whether it’s the right weather, it’s about the right clothes. Hehe. Of which, we had very little. So, we decided to start wandering closer towards our next B&B in Doolin. Along the way, I had found a number of castles we hoped to visit. I labeled them on google maps, but after our first attempt, we realized each location needed more thorough investigation. This first site was closed to the public and looked like it would be a traipse through a very wet field. Which we had been trying to avoid in the first place. 

Onto the next destination; Aughnanure Castle. The reviews were stellar on google, and the entry was only 5 euro, and I can confirm, it is well worth a visit. The gentleman at the ticket counter was so kind and attempted to give us student rates, but we giggled and admitted we were not in fact students, however we might wish for that. He also gave us a map and told us to ask him any questions, but to remember it was designed “to kill people,” and sent us on our way.

The castle was not what I was expecting. I was expecting a large structure like a mansion, or similar to other castles I’ve seen in Scotland. This castle was a more simple tower, perhaps better for defending. It certainly had features that were crafted to stop an invasion. The entry door had a hole above the ceiling where a defender may fire a bow and arrow through or drop rocks on any intruders. My personal favorite, called a “murder hole.” And there were two buttresses that stuck out away from the castle, giving the defenders a vantage point at which to stop the intruders before reaching the main gate. Once inside the main gate, there would be three doors to choose from, disorienting the intruders and delaying them as they figured out which door to go through.

I can’t talk about the castle without mentioning the “poop chute,” and the very depictive signs they’ve put up explaining how that worked. Pretty self-explanatory I would think, but in case you needed a visual to understand, there it was. Lol. I couldn’t imagine the types of drafts that you’d be greeted with, especially on a windy day. We also learned that clothing would be hung in there as well, and the unlucky soul whose job it was to “stir the pot” would do so in the waste pit, releasing the built up ammonia, that would back track up the chute and supposedly, disinfect the clothing and kill tiny pests such as lice and fleas. Jaimee and I agreed we are quite content living the day and age we are. No, thank you. Haha. 

Before leaving, we took shelter under a roof and chatted with the ticket man. He was so knowledgeable and clearly very proud to work there. He in fact said, he was “working at a medieval castle, what more could I want?” He further explained that the castle would be painted white with lime-stone dust for two reasons, 1) to brighten up the interiors, and even with lights on, the cloudy days really did darken the interior. And 2), supposedly the limestone would help kill bacteria and could stave off illnesses such as the plague. Who knew? He told us about all the medicinal plants that grew on the property and explained how important the yew tree was back in those days. In fact, there was an ancient yew tree that would’ve been old back then, too… it’s around 1,000 years old! It has been persevered all this time on the castle grounds. To think of what that tree has born witness to…

Like I said, this is a visit well worth the stop. 

After spending more time than we thought we would there, we decided to head up the road to Oughterard to have lunch. Well, this turned out to be a delightful town as well! A bit busy, but we didn’t have trouble finding parking, and we walked over to Power’s Thatch Pub and Restaurant, complete with yes, a thatched roof! Very quaint, and the food was delicious. I’m not sure we had any meals in Ireland that weren’t quality. Whether it was the food quality or the care they cooked with, it was delicious. 

Post-lunch, we decided we needed a coffee, so down the street we walked and found a coffee shop called “My Little Flower.” We knew this stop was meant to be because Jaimee had been telling me about a “piccolo” coffee, something she discovered in her travels to Australia. And as soon as we walked in the door and read the menu, she gasped and knew what she was going to order. I had never tried one, but Jaimee describes it as the perfect espresso to milk ratio, so I was intrigued and I’m always up for something new, so I ordered one as well. It was a “split,” meaning it came with half the espresso in a cup on its own and the rest mixed in another cup with the milk. It was delightful to try the straight espresso, strong as it was, but we both added it to the other cup. And it was, without doubt, delectable, and I would agree with Jaimee. The coffee was so good, I decided to get a bag to bring home. I have been thinking recently that I don’t use my espresso maker as much as I should or would like to, and this fine coffee may be the motivation I need to use it more. I’d like to try to make my own “piccolos.” 

Our next stop was Athenry Castle, which we snagged student tickets for. The gentleman asked us ever so politely if we were students, to which we both chuckled and said “we wish,” to which the man replied, students it is, then! Haha. Another couple walked in about the same time as us, and our new favorite castle warden gave us all a spiel about the tower. In the rain. Classic Ireland? But also, pretty chilly and damp, hehe. After our educational lesson wrapped up, we were given free reign to explore the tower. Again, it felt surreal to be walking through a castle. And one in the shape of this tower. I had not expected this form at all, and still don’t picture it in my mind when I hear “castle.”

After checking out every nook and cranny, we walked over to another old ruin, the Athenry Dominican Priory, with the glass-less windows, and no way to enter. We peaked over the sides of the once window sills to get an idea of what it might have looked like on the inside and in its heyday. 

And of course, after properly traipsing through the rain and cold, we naturally found ourselves at Murphy’s Bar. We initially found a couple of seats at the bar, an older man so graciously moved aside, without us asking, so we could have two bar stools next to each other. But all of a sudden, Jaimee was gone! Haha. She went to look for a table, and came back with the best kept secret! There was a little fireplace in the back, and the perfect tiny round table for us to sit at. Someone had JUST started the fire, and it was THE perfect spot to warm up with a pint of Guinness and a fire. The guy stoking the fire was using old chair legs and other miscellaneous wood, thanks to a renovation project next door. 

Next up, we began our way towards Doolin, and found ourselves on a corkscrew like road. Very fun to drive, and we kept climbing and climbing, and we saw a rainbow! And we pulled over at a viewpoint and realized this is the spot we had been told about earlier, and we could see some of the Burren limestone terraces. They looked fake, but were natural! If you get a chance, Google them; truly a sight to behold.

We make our way right into Doolin, one of the cutest little towns we’ve been in. I somehow thought it’d be bigger, being a waypoint for the Cliffs of Moher, but it was so quaint and tiny and absolutely picturesque. We check into our Airbnb, which in itself was incredible, and immediately head out for a walk. We didn’t even bring our stuff into our room; we figured we’d best make use of the daylight we had left.

We walked down through “town,” which had a couple of shops and restaurants, and made our way up a hill which paralleled a cow pasture and a pitch and putt. We walked through the grassy hills and got closer to the cow pasture and the views from here were stunning. A huge waterfall was falling off the edge of a cliff in the distance, with waves crashing below, and my favorite dopey cows, just happily munching on the grass with the sounds of the water to soothe them. When I hear “happy cows,” I will think of these beauties. Such lucky cows! 

We had been told that Doolin is a traditional Irish music hotspot, so we set out to find a place with live music. We first stopped by a pub that we would revisit again, and there was a trio, playing a guitar, accordion, and a concertina. I’m always hankering for a fiddle, but this was pretty excellent too! We grabbed some liquid dinner and took up a spot by a pole with a small shelf for the drinks. It was cramped, to say the least, haha. Soon, Jaimee noticed a table that only had 2 people sitting at it. Time to make friends! We sat down and began to chat with our new friends, a couple from the Netherlands. They were taking a trip just for themselves, leaving the kids at home. They were a delight to chat with, while the trio rocked out behind us. We contemplated dinner here, but we’re ready to commit. 

Next up, we walk to another bar that supposedly has live music. We walk in and see some musicians packing up. Or so we thought. They were just arriving! Yes! We stayed put and ordered some more beer, hoping to get a menu for food. Womp Womp. We missed the kitchen call again. Haha. Liquid dinner it is! Huzzah! There is literally nowhere to stand, and its a cold, damp, chilly night, so we are holding all of our layers, plus a pint of beer. It’s cozy inside, but we’re not necessarily the most comfortable. We agree to enjoy our beer, and if we get lucky with a seat, we may stay, or if not, once we polish off our beverages, we’ll head home. Luck of the Irish was with us! After standing for 20 minutes or so, a table opened up, and thanks to Jaimee’s quick action, we snagged two chairs and unloaded our layers and took a seat. 

By now the party was really getting going. There was a group of older women, celebrating one of their birthdays, and they were beautifully outrageous and confident, and having such a blast with each other. And there was, what we think, a wedding party, that came in. Younger, full of wild intoxicated energy, and the whole place lit up. The music was excellent, and soon, everyone was dancing. It was difficult not to join in after a while. the vibes are contagious, and these little Irish pubs with live music has been and will continue to be one of my favorite travel memories. It’s a “thin place” for me, without a doubt. In a way I can’t explain, I feel called to and so welcomed and at home in a dark, warmly lit, cozy Irish pub, singing along with everyone, just having fun with friends and strangers alike. 

I’ve often related that to my love of Western North Carolina and the bluegrass I was exposed to during college. I went to Warren Wilson College in Swannanoa, about 20 minutes east of Asheville. The history of the Appalachian mountains once being the same mountain range as those in Western Europe combined with the immigration from Europe to the United States, there are plenty of similarities. And I can still recal the day I showed up to WWC for the first time. I was in the car with my Mom and Nana, and the GPS (the old fashioned garmin that sat on your dash), said, “you have arrived at your destination.” Clearly, we had been taken a back way into the school, because we were on a small road, in the woods, with no buildings in sight. It was at the moment I knew that’s where I belonged. I can’t help but feel, after learning about “the thin place,” that WWC was that for me as well.

As I digress, let it be known: Ireland and Western NC hold a VERY special place in my heart. And if you’ve been to neither, I encourage you wholeheartedly to put that on your list. 🤗

Up next: Cliffs of Moher!

Once again, I made it through the night without having any issues! Maybe I do have a rock solid stomach! 😁💪🏼. Raw chicken? No problem for me! Or, I’m just VERY lucky. Also, it’s New Zealand, so I have far more faith in their food quality than in the States, AND, Hayden so kindly offered that being a frozen chicken tender, he doubted how much was actually chicken. I did check the box afterward, and chicken was the first ingredient. Thank you very much. 😂

My tour today left earlier than yesterday, but they picked up right from my lodging. Yay! Today would be spent kayaking in the Milford Sound, and the best part was that this tour only had 6 people on it! The Doubtful Sound cruise was loaded with people; we needed 3 big tour buses to take us from the first boat to the second. It was totally different today, and it would be a welcome change to have fewer people around and to get some exercise in while taking in the scenic views.

It was another overcast start to the day, and I had high hopes it would change as we got closer to the sound, as it did yesterday. Driving in, I could only imagine how beautiful the ride was, but it was too dark and foggy to see much. So it was time for a nap! Our guide did offer up some trivia on the drive and he stopped at a few key points for us to take pictures. Thank you, Olly!

One of the coolest parts of the road was the Homer Tunnel. At 1.2km long, it took 20 years to complete, and I’m not sure there would’ve been any other way around… These mountains are HUGE! I would love to see them in the winter covered in snow. 😍

Olly shared a fun fact about the tunnel: every year on April 1st, all the staff who work in Milford run the length of the tunnel at night, in the dark, completely naked. lol. What kind of strange tradition is that? I need to know more about how it got started, haha. I think the whole van was still half asleep because nobody thought to ask Olly if he had participated. Big missed opportunity there for a fun story, haha.

Before we knew it, we were at the starting point of our kayak adventure. It took us a hot minute to get situated with our thermal clothes and kayak gear. For the tour, I was paired up with another solo traveling woman, Sungwun. We rock, paper, scissored, and the loser was to take the back seat, which had the big responsibility of steering the kayak with foot pedals attached to the back rudder. I’ve never seen a kayak with that feature before. Is that what separates a sea kayak from a fresh water kayak? Thankfully I won and took my prize in the front of the kayak.

It took us a few minutes to get the hang of the double kayak, but we were cruising along in no time. We round the corner and get our first real glimpse of Milford Sound. There is a striking waterfall, which we will be getting closer to later on, and *the* instragamable shot right ahead of us. 😍 Although the tops of the mountains were obscured by the clouds, it was still beautiful; I always feel that misty clouds add a bit of mystique to the ambiance. Once again, it feels as though I’ve been transported into a fairytale land. I think that’s maybe the best way to describe the natural beauty of NZ… Think of your favorite fantasy book or movie setting, and that is NZ.

About halfway through, we paused for a moment in the middle of the water to have a snack and a drink of water. We just floated along with the rising tide, taking in the glorious mountain peaks all around us. I have to say, this may have been the most picturesque place I’ve ever eaten an Oreo. 🤣 And now I have a new mission: always bring Oreos for photo ops in fun places :). My newest friend, Sungwun, used the word “primordial” to describe the scenery, and I can’t think of a better word. It does feel like prehistoric, untouched land and brings to mind my favorite wild and mossy trees.

Something I learned on our tour was how the trees on the steep slopes survive. The exposed rock is first populated by moss, and soon, small things begin to take root and grow. But because the roots can not dig deep, they sprawl out to the sides, connecting and intertwining with other root systems. Essentially, the trees are holding each other up, and if one falls, they’re all at risk of destruction. And there is clear evidence of this on the hillside all around: giant “slips,” where the rock is nearly barren, with a small amount of moss beginning to grow. Other slips are further along in their regrowth, boasting small trees that will one day rise to the heights of their neighbors.

I loved hearing about this process and couldn’t help but think of what a beautiful metaphor that is for the world. We’re all incredibly interconnected, more so now than ever before, and an affront to one of us is an affront to all of us. We need each other to survive and thrive in this intricately globalized world. 🌏

Sooner than we wanted, it was time to head back to where we began and hang up our kayaking gear. But the day was far from over! We still had some time to spend in “town,” or rather, at the one information center/cafe in all of Milford, haha. Sungwun and I really wanted to put our bathing suits to good use. We both had brought them with us traveling and hadn’t gone swimming yet! Haha, so why not right now? We were already partially wet from kayaking… it’s now or never!

So we gear up and head towards the water’s edge. I dip my toes in, and brrrrr is it cold. I know I’m going to get in; I have a Polar Plunge reputation to uphold after all (Oktobellfest, anyone? :D). I make my way in, one slow step at a time, and get about halfway when Sungwun is ready to join me. She asks me if it’s cold, and I say noooooo while hugging myself and shivering 🤣. She howls with laughter but doesn’t get scared away. She comes right on in with me, and we stay what we deem was an appropriate amount of time, and not a second longer before quickly jumping out and drying off. We did it! Albeit brief, we went swimming!

Next up was the drive back to Te Anau, but again, Olly hooked us up with some stops along the way for excellent photo ops and a bathroom break. Overall, the tour was fabulous, and although I was tired after doing 2 day trips back to back, I wouldn’t have changed a thing!

The rest of the afternoon and evening were spent doing laundry and packing for my return trip to the North Island. I wanted to write for the blog, so I made myself some coffee, risking not being able to sleep, and got to work.

Sunset wasn’t until 9pm, and I realized I didn’t want to end my time on the South Island while being in my tiny room on my iPad. So, I ventured out for an evening walk around 8, hoping to catch the sun setting behind the mountains. I then decided I would walk down to the bird sanctuary. It was a 10-minute walk from where I was staying and had some pretty awesome birds to see, including one that nearly went extinct!

I made it to the bird sanctuary and saw the famous Takahē, a flightless bird whose population is being revived through conservation efforts. And that was about the only bird I saw at the sanctuary; most of them were already in their nests for the evening, hehe. Sleepy birds 😴. I was still happy with my evening stroll, and by the time I made it back to the lodge, the sun was minutes from setting behind the mountains. Success! What a perfect way to end my stay in Fjordland.

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I woke up earlier than I wanted today due to a loud German guy next door having a phone conversation with someone at 4am! I know the time difference is a thing, but it’s very obvious that the walls here are paper thin here. Have a little decency and go outside? At one point, I could even hear the person on the other end of the phone, lol. Grrreat. 🙄

I was able to fall back asleep for a brief while until my alarm went off and finished last minute packing for the trip back to Queenstown. The bus back was picking me up right at my lodge, and honestly, it can’t get better than that! 😄

I load onto the bus with a few others, and we all got window seats! Hooray! And off we went through the dense fog. I did my best to go through the multitudes of photos I took while also trying to absorb the views. The ride was great, and we stopped at a little cafe for a bathroom and some snacks, and back on the road we went. The day cleared up, and it was perfect for viewing the mountains surrounding the Wakatipu Lake.

I get dropped off downtown and consider asking the hostel if they’ll store my bag, but I decide to just keep it with me and hike up to the top of the gondola ride. It should take around 2.5 hours total to go up and back down again. But I like to challenge the published times, even with a larger pack on my back. I got this!

Well, this trail is VERY steep. I may have had instant regrets, but I shoved them deep down and carried on. The more you work for something, the more rewarding it is in the end. Right? 😅. 

The trail was a series of extra steep switchbacks, with only a few blessed sections of flat. Otherwise, it was straight up and up and up. I made it to the top in less than an hour and felt quite proud of that time. I wandered around the visitors center at the top, enjoying utterly spectacular views of Queenstown and the lake. So worth it! It’s always worth it! Apparently, there was another trail to catch to the summit. Do I have time? Nah… I don’t want to play with fire and end up missing my flight up to Wellington. So I take it all in and see how fast I can make it down. The sign said plan on an hour descent. No way is it taking me longer than it did to hike up. I went down in around 30-40 minutes… those extra steep bits? Extra hard on the down. But I hiked up and down in record time, totaling 1:27! Woohoo! I did it a whole hour faster!🥳 But I’m not competitive or anything…😅🤣

Hungry after my grueling hike, I went back to Beech Craft Beers and had a delicious chicken sandwich and another flight of beer. Well earned, I’d say. After I ate my fill, I went hunting for a particular set of postcards. I have only seen them a few times, and I got an idea in my head to grab 3 of them and put them in a frame together. I figured this would be my art souvenir until I stumbled across something I knew I had to have. Sometimes, you just know. And I know I was meant to have this thing. It’s gorgeous!

Soon, it was time to head back to the airport and say, “See you soon, Queenstown!” It was a bittersweet departure, as I was headed back to the North Island to be reunited with Dana and Hayden for the last few days of my time in NZ.

The first flight was easy and quick and had incredible views! I opted to pay extra to get a window seat because I did not want to miss out on that! And I’m happy to say it was 100% worth it! And I actually ended up with the whole row to myself! Amazing! When you know, you know! Haha.

My next flight to New Plymouth was delayed a bit, but I went and sat down in the waiting area to continue writing. That’s when I noticed a guy with a huge bouquet of roses head over to where people are exiting the arrival gates. The people sitting behind me notice him and start commentating, and I’m loving every minute of it! We’re all patiently waiting for this man’s partner to walk through the doors and see him. We want to see their expression! Hehe. Sooo many people walk past, and the three of us start to wonder where the heck is this other person? And we blink, and the man with the roses disappears. He hid himself from us behind a pillar. Stupid pillar! We need to see how this ends! Hehe.

After anxiously waiting and watching dozens of people exit, FINALLY, a beautiful woman walks through with a huge smile on her face and embraces the man with the roses. They start walking our way, and both are utterly beaming and walk arm and arm past their unknown fan club of supportive spectators. It was so cute and heartwarming! Happy Valentines Day! I want someone to bring me flowers at the airport! 🥹 So freaking adorable. 🤗🥰

I made it to New Plymouth and was again greeted by Dana and Hayden. I could get used to this! 😁 We make our way to the Airbnb for the night, which is more like a hotel/apartment? Odd, but it’ll do, haha. Time for a shower and bed and another round of adventures in the morning. 😁

Today, I embark on an epic side quest to Queenstown! I can’t believe this all worked out, and I’m actually going! 😁🤗. I sort of had it in mind as a possibility, but honestly, I didn’t think it would happen. Turns out, the universe had other plans in store for me, and who I am to deny the great unknown? Tee-hee 🤗🥰

Dana drove me to an airport about an hour away in Palmerston North, and from there, I flew back to Auckland, where I caught the flight to Queenstown. I arrived in the afternoon with plenty of sunlight to burn, so I checked into the hostel and set out to explore. Queenstown is breathtaking! And quite possibly the most idyllic and serene place I have ever seen. The city sits on a lake surrounded by towering mountains. It’s so surreal, and the water is super clear, and I just can’t stop taking photos and admiring the views. 😍🤩

I walked a good amount of time around the Queenstown Gardens, and then I found a watering hole to quench my thirst. Beech Craft Beer was nestled in the middle of a pedestrian only area. I ordered a flight of beer and enjoyed the variety of selections. Next up was a trip to Fergburger! Not only did Dana and Hayden make me promise to go, but another friend of mine, Jacinda, also suggested I wait in the super long line wrapped around the block to try the famous burgers.

Okay, I get it. I have to go! Haha. So I did! And it turns out I timed it amazingly because the line really wasn’t that long. I got the Southern Swine burger and waited. Soon, my number was up, and I collected my food and took it down to the beach to eat while I ogled the view. After eating the ENORMOUS burger, I decided to lay down and take a little snooze. 😴

After a solid cat nap, I decided I wasn’t ready to go back to the hostel, so I found another brewery called Atlas and decided it was fitting, being travel related and all, and therefore worth a visit. After indulging in a beer there, I walked over to Smiths; making my own little bar crawl in Queenstown:). I HAD to visit ‘Smiths’ because of Dana and Hayden… Smith. Not related, but still neat 🤗. I did plan to obscond with a few name-sake coasters for my dear friends, but alas, there were none to be had. Oh well. By the time I finished, I was done for the day and walked back to the hostel to relax and get ready for tomorrow’s adventure to Te Anau!

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I woke up early, trying to be as quiet as possible while I got ready in the hostel room. I had to leave in the dark to make it out to the bus pickup location on time, which was conveniently located directly in front of a cafe. Yay!  I ordered a coffee and some yogurt with granola. Perfect! 😊

On the bus ride to Te Anau, the driver gave us all sorts of commentary. I learned that New Zealand was one of the last places in the world to be inhabited, and that the untouched forests of New Zealand offer some of the best insight into what the mega continent, Gondawana, was like in terms of flora and fauna. Birds were pretty much the sole inhabitants of the islands before humans arrived and brought with them everything else and then some. That is why New Zealand has so many species of birds, especially flightless birds.

Another very practical tip the driver gave us was a safety one, applicable in all facets of life. He suggested that if one finds themself in need of emergency help or is lost, just take a photo! The phone will log the information of said photo, including where it was taken. So even if you have no clue where you are and no signs around, your phone will outsmart you! Then you’re able to let emergency services know where you are. Genius!

While I’m on my Southland adventure, Dana was asked to sing at a funeral. She summarized it so beautifully that this woman who passed had lived an extraordinary life. One well lived, one that we all could aspire to have. And yet, in the end, it’s all compiled and organized into speaking points for a one-time eulogy. The bigger picture here: no matter what you do in life, we all end up in the same place. So why not live life to the fullest right NOW? To take risks, to take that trip you’ve been dreaming of. In the end, money doesn’t matter, just memories and the experiences you took advantage of. So get out there! Have fun and be yourself, do what brings you joy, and spread the love! 🤗🥰

I arrived in Te Anau way too early to check in at the lodgings, so I headed to town, surely able to occupy myself for the morning and afternoon. Well, if you don’t know, Te Anau is VERY small, haha. You can walk the entirety of the main street in under 5 minutes. So, I decided to walk along the shore of the Te Anau Lake. It’s gorgeous! On the opposite side of the shore are impressive mountains nestled within the Fjordland National Park, and the beaches are covered in beautiful stones. Not easy to walk on, but beautiful.

My accommodations were about a 20 minute walk from town, so I began heading there around 1pm, hoping I could check in a tad early. I was in luck! I got to my single little room, and it was adorable! Once I was settled, I took a nap, organized my things, and then walked back to town for some refreshments and groceries. The place I was staying in had a shared kitchen, and you had to rent a kitchen basket with all the dishes and silverware one would require. I’m not sure why that couldn’t be included in the rate, lol, but all is good.

I bought some frozen veggies, some frozen chicken tenders, and some quick noodle packets. I thought I was golden! Until I was eating my dinner, hastily microwaved because the electric cook top was just taking too long, and I realized the chicken was raw! Omg. Haha. I had NO idea the breaded chicken tenders were raw! And they were frozen! I just assumed they’d be fully cooked. So weird. Serves me right for not really reading the box, and just looking at the pictures, 😅. So I’m obviously concerned I’ll get food poisoning and / or salmonella, and won’t be able to do my day trips in the Fjordland National Park (they weren’t exactly cheap!) Uggggghhh. But, on the other hand, I went through some serious bouts of stomach issues while living in El Salvador, so maybe this is a true test of my rock solid gut! I’m sure hopeful my body will rise to the challenge 😅🤣.

Well, time for bed. And here’s for hoping I don’t wake up in the middle of the night with a severe problem. 😬

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Sooooo happy to say I made it through the evening with no issues! I think I’ll be alright! I’m going for the day cruise and hoping I still manage to be okay because food poisoning on a boat does not sound like fun. Haha.

Today I’ll be headed to Doubtful Sound, and to get there, I’ll need to take a bus, to take a boat, to take another bus, to finally embark on the cruise. Very fun and adventurous, but daunting, when living with an ever ticking time bomb of potential food poisoning, lol. Wish me luck! Here I go!

The first bus ride is rather short, and once you arrive in Manapouri, you collect a picnic lunch if you ordered one, and it comes in the cutest metal bento box! I love the consideration for the environment. The little cafe here also allows you to take the ceramic cups onto the boat, as they do not have disposable cups. Amazing!

This first boat will take us through the Manapouri Lake to the other side, where we will again take a bus to the dock for the Doubtful Sound cruise. It was overcast, but the impressive mountains surrounding the lake were still visible. It was like getting a little teaser of what was to come. 🤗

Once we get to the second bus, we’re only 50 minutes away from our final stop. No wonder this is an all-day event, hehe. Our driver gave us some commentary on the way, and she pointed out a few things, one of them being one of my now favorite trees: the New Zealand Beech Tree. They look so old and are covered in moss that hangs low, and the limbs are gangly, and they give the impression they’ve been taken straight out of a fairytale. We passed one gigantic tree that was 650 years old! WOW!

Another point of interest was the peak of the road, which officially divides the East from the West, and as promised previously, the weather is usually significantly different across the divide. And sure enough, not a moment sooner, the overcast sky opened up to a crystal clear blue sky. Perfect weather for the cruise!

The cruise took us all the way out to the Tasman Sea, where we were hoping to spot some wildlife. And success! We were lucky to see some seals lounging on a big rock. Once we were all the way into the ocean, it was a marked difference from traveling within the safety of the sound. The waves were quite large and made for a fun yet perilous ride through. I didn’t know the cruise was taking us that far, and I was very pleased to wander out into the Tasman Sea!

On the way back to the dock, one of our guides on the boat asked us to observe a moment of silence. The captain turned off the boat engines while we picked a spot where we wouldn’t move from. We were asked not to speak, not to use our phones, but rather, just soak it all in. I LOVED this. And everybody abided! Nobody spoke. There were no noises besides some birds in the distance and the small waves crashing against the rocky shore. What a meditative moment in time, shared but a group of strangers. That may have been my favorite part of the whole cruise. How often do you just take a moment and live in the now? Just being, breathing, looking, listening, and feeling.

While on the cruise, I made a friend! Jack, from Arizona. He was also traveling alone, so we chatted a bit about our travels, as solo travelers do, haha. Once we made it back to Te Anau, we had dinner and a celebratory beverage after a wonderful day. Soon, it was my witching hour, and it was time to head home and get ready for the next adventure!