I was worried about making the Delta flight, so I quickly booked a standby seat on an Avianca flight to JFK, while in the Uber. I tried to do the check in, but was being thwarted by the emergency contact section. Apparently Avianca requires this, and it asks for the country code of the phone number listed, and I must’ve tried it every way I could think of, and it just wouldn’t accept it as correct. What on earth am I doing wrong? Lol. I give my phone to Dana and Hayden, the pro travelers, to see if they can troubleshoot my issue. No luck. I only had about 14 minutes to check-in, haha. So once we get dropped off, I run to a self check-in kiosk and have no trouble here. Okay, great! Now, to see if I can somehow skip ahead of this super long line. Here in Bogotá, you have to go through immigration before security, and this line was almost the entire length of the check-in area for all the airlines. Wicked long! Lol, I ask around, hoping someone will help me and a few others with tight connections, but nobody is helpful, airport employees nor passengers waiting in line. Ugghh. I’m totally gonna miss it! And, I already bought the ticket, which means I’ll have to go through the cancel and refund process.

Okay, so back to the original plan with Delta. I check in at the ticket counter and am told to come back at 7:30 to see if I can make it on the plane. They won’t give us boarding passes until then, so there is no way we can go through immigration and security and go to the lounge. Lame. So, I hang with Dana and Hayden, and we grab some breakfast, all reeling about how insane the airport was this morning. 

At 7:30 exactly, we head back over to the ticket counter, and they tell us to wait another 10 minutes or so. 10 minutes comes and goes, and we’re still awaiting for the non-rev gods to decide our fate. Finally, one of the agents comes out with a handful of boarding passes! More than we were expecting, so we regain some hope here, but we know better than to get too excited, haha. The agent starts calling names, and my hope dwindles just as fast as the lucky ones snatch their passes and head over to immigration. Lady Luck must be on my side today because I was the last name to be called! OMG! Yes! Unfortunately, that meant that Dana and Hayden wouldn’t be joining me on this leg, but they know what they’ve signed up for and are game for it, lol. I still feel bad that they’re not flying with me. Sorry, friends!

We were stoked about the idea of all of us traveling standby together, but I guess that adventure will have to wait for a future date. We say a hasty goodbye, as now I have an hour to make it to the flight. I’m worried about the long immigration and security line, but all the other standbys are with me in solidarity, haha. 

I make it through relatively quickly, and once at the gate, I am told to wait until the very end. Then what was the original wait for? Haha, am I still not guaranteed a seat? Since I passed through the immigration area, I’ve technically “left” Colombia, and now would I have to enter again? That just seems weird, lol. With about 20 minutes to spare, the gate agents start calling standbys over, and we wait for our names to be called. Myself and another gentleman traveling standby were told to wait a minute while the agents spoke to dispatch to verify that we’d get a seat. Omg! I’ve now made it this far, and I might not make it on? Haha It’s stressful, but laughable. That’s the way non-rev travel goes! Hehe. Within just 30 seconds or so, the agent informs us that we are able to get on the plane! Thank goodness! Hehe. We both look at each other and sigh a big sigh of relief, and scan our passes and head down the jet bridge. Ugh. They’re doing extra security screenings for everyone. A typical thing with US bound flights, but my bag is packed so perfectly, and it’s bulging at the seams. If they try to take stuff out, I worry I’ll never get it situated again in time to get on the flight, haha. Luckily, it was a quick search, and the woman didn’t go through too much, and I was able to get it zipped up with her help, though, hehe. Now the next concern: Is there space for my bag? I know I’m the last passenger, unless there are super duper last-minute people, so I decide I’ll just throw my bag up whenever I see an empty bin. 

As I board the plane, much to my surprise, I see a familiar face! A flight attendant friend of mine from when we were both based in LA. Hi Pablina! How funny! Hehe. I guess you never know who you’ll run into, lol. I find a spot for my bag in the Delta One cabin and realize my seat is actually in Comfort Plus, and not as far back as I thought I was! Haha. Although, I really wanted to be in the lay-flat seats because who wouldn’t? Tee-hee! The flight to Atlanta is short, only 4.5 hours, and after the long shuttle through Central America, 4.5 feels like nothing! Haha. I’m currently on the plane and have been slowly catching up with my journaling, and I watched the new Black Panther movie, and now we’ve got just under an hour to go! And then I have to see if I can make a Boston flight today. 

There was some winter weather that I’m assuming caused multiple delays and cancellations, so it might be tough to make it back home, but I’ve got some plan Bs and Cs up my sleeve. Time will tell!  

Well, all the Boston flights looked terrible, so I checked out the DC route, which was my plan D or E, lol. Flights to DC looked great, and the flights to Boston the next morning also looked great. Sweet! Just a little quick visit to the capital, and I’ll be home. This is the price we pay for free flights, right? Hehe.

Got to my hotel and had a lovely night’s rest, and I woke up early to start trying my luck on the Boston flights. Missed the first one. That’s okay. The second one was looking better anyway. Missed the second one. Ugghh. Okay, so I check my options and realize that even if I connect through a different city, all the Boston legs are looking just as trash as what I’m seeing out of DC. So I’m deciding to wait until 6 pm for the last flight to Boston, and if I miss that one too, I’m going to attempt the overnight bus from DC to Boston. This is turning out to be quite the journey, haha. I’ve never, in my almost 7 years of flying, have had such trouble non-reving. What the heck?!

It is snowing here in DC, and big fluffy flakes are dancing around the airplanes parked at the gates. At least I can enjoy some wine and be cozy while I wait 7 hours for the next flight, hehe. 

I ended up using my $28 coupon from Priority Pass to grab some seriously sub-par fish and chips at a restaurant in the United terminal. Well, at least I didn’t have to pay much! Lol. My flight to Boston was looking promising, but I didn’t want to get too excited, based on what I had seen the last day or so. My backup plan was the trusty rusty bus, lol. 

I make it on the flight! Wooohoo! Finally, I’m getting back to Boston! And my Mom was on “standby” to come pick me up, so I let her know of my arrival plans, and it was a go! Thanks, Mom! The flight was uneventful and quick, and before I knew it, I was getting off the plane in my home airport. It’s hard to believe I was gone for nearly a month! 

Mom comes and picks me up, and we head on our way to my loft. I shared stories from the travels and caught up with what I missed at home while I was away. It was a long couple of days, but I finally made it to my sanctuary. And I have bells the following day, which I couldn’t wait for, and a day to relax, and then back to work on Tuesday. Welcome back to reality, Amelia! Hehe!

The next morning, we didn’t have to rush to get up, which was such a nice change. We were planning on taking the noon bus back to Pereira, where we would be catching a short flight to Bogotá. Before heading to the bus terminal, we walked around town one last time. At this point, it seemed as though most of the tourists had taken the Jeeps to the Cocora Valley or to the coffee farms that were just outside town. The streets were emptier than we’d seen them, and we looked for a place to have a cup of coffee. Dana introduces me to a macchiato, and it’s so cute! Like a mini cappuccino! Hehe. Dana said it’s a great travel day drink since it’s smaller and better for having fewer pee stops readily available, lol. 

After our coffee stop, we begin to explore some of the souvenir shops, hoping to find some last-minute goodies to bring with us. Happy with our purchases, we head back to the hotel and get our things together. We’re early, but we might as well go wait by the bus station instead of our dark, damp, and humid hotel room. 

We get to the bus station, ready to purchase our tickets for the 12:00 bus, and we’re told that there is a taxi protest going on in Pereira, causing all kinds of traffic issues, so there were less busses available than normal. They usually leave every hour from Salento, but today, the next one is at noon. That feels like it’s cutting it close for our 3:45 flight, as we’re expecting the ride back to Pereira to take longer than an hour, especially knowing that the protests are going on. While we’re discussing other options, like grabbing an Uber, another guy over hears us and offers to take us on an 11:40 bus, that is meant to go direct to Medellín, but they will make a stop in Pereira for a handful of us who were trying to get there. Sweet! 

We get on the bus and end up in the last row, but we’re happy to have a few extra minutes on our hands. The ride starts off with no problems, but as we approach the city of Pereira, the bus needs to take a variety of side streets to get around the blocked streets. The taxi drivers have parked their cars across the road, prohibiting anyone from getting by. So, just like in our typical tradition, the alleged length of our bus ride is extended, and poor Dana has to pee horribly. I guess that macchiato was larger than normal. 🤪 

We finally make it to the bus station in Pereira, and Dana runs to the bathroom hehe. When she comes back, we arrange for an Uber to take us to the airport. Our Uber driver explains to us that the city is nearly empty due to the protests, and we’d make it to the airport shortly. 

And we arrived at the new airport, redone within the last couple of years. We have plenty of time before our flight, so we head to the lounge, naturally. The only self-serve in this lounge was a coffee machine and the rest we had to ask someone for. We stock up on snacks and do a little bit of work, patiently awaiting our flight to Bogotá.

Before we know it, it’s time to head to the gate. We get there only to find that the plane hasn’t even arrived yet. Ugh.. it’l be a while still, hehe. We think we have a ton of time, but as soon as the pane is connected to the jet bridge, they actually begin boarding. What? There is no way they have deplaned everyone and cleaned and catered. I call a bluff! Haha. Turns out, they start boarding and funnel people into the hallway of ramps headed towards the plane, while the inbound passengers deplane and head in a different direction, presumably to immigration and customs. Wow, this is efficient! I think I like this setup!

This time, all three of us are in the same row, and our flight should only be about 30 minutes or so, And of course, I have a window seat and am hoping that I can enjoy the views from 30,000 feet, but alas, it was cloudy the whole way. Womp Womp. 

We got to Bogotá and ordered an Uber, which took us a while to find, but the driver waited for us, and away we went! I enjoyed the ride from the airport, observing the city and its infrastructure. There are separate lanes for the city busses, and I’d later realize that at least some of the busses are run on natural gas. Sweet! The city feels more developed than any other city I’ve been to in Latin America, and I’m naturally curious as to how and why. I love traveling, as it satiates and fuels my curiosity for the world. I just love seeing different places and how they do things, especially within Latin America, as there are strong similarities between the countries, but also huge differences. 

Our apartment in Bogotá is on the top floor of a really nice building. We’re all super excited to get inside and see what it looks like. We check in with the security guard at the front desk, and we’re given two keys in a leather pouch. Oh, this is gonna be good, hehe. We take the keys out of the pouch, and they look like some sort of steampunk key, defitneily not your average key. This builds our excitement even more, and we hurry up the elevator and find our apartment. 

We put the key in, turn the handle, and what we see before us is a glorious view from the huge windows in the living room of the apartment. Wow! This apartment is super modern, complete with a touch sensitive faucet in the kitchen sink, an oven/microwave combination, and they even put in a projector! We were hoping to have a big ‘ole movie night later! Hehe 

Once we all take a nice long walking tour of our new home, we unpack and head out to the grocery store. We need to grab some dinner and snacks for our last couple of days in Colombia. It’s hard to believe the end of this chapter is near. 

We head out of the apartment, and I immediately love my surroundings; there are street artists and street vendors along a wide pedestrian only road that leads right to the neighborhood town square. Almost inexplicably, I get the best vibes from this place! I can’t wait to explore more tomorrow!

Once we’re back at the apartment, we attempt to figure out the washing/drying machine, but it appears that the drying feature doesn’t work, or is so slow that it’ll never work for us haha. Oh well, hang dry it is! At least we have the washer! :). I also attempt to figure out the projector situation, but realize we need to hook it up to one of our devices with an HDMI cable. Another strike! Lol. None of our devices have that port, so I guess we’l’ be watching the old-fashioned smart TV, haha. I go over to figure that one out and again greeted with issues. Gah! There are two remotes, and I try using both of them, but only one will turn the TV on, and after that, nothing. Interesting. So I troubleshoot with the cables, turning it on and off, etc. Nothing. Hmm…Then we wonder if it could be the batteries. Thankfully, the other remote took AAA batteries, and I had extras that I had bought as backups for my headlamp for our volcano hike back in Guatemala. I popped those babies in, and the remote worked! Hooray! So we put on some Netflix and watched The Office, essentially our show for the entire trip, lol. We didn’t get too much work done, but we certainly enjoyed the binging party, hehe. 

The next morning, we woke up fairly leisurely, and Dana and I had the last of our coffee, made with a French press. Yum! While we were waking up, we attempted to come up with a game plan for the day. We knew we wanted to start with Montserrat, a church overlooking the city on a nearby mountain. The city of Bogotá is surrounded by mountains, much like Medellín, and we couldn’t pass up the panoramic view that awaited us at the top. 

We grab an Uber to the ticket booth, which is where we’d be riding a funicular to the top. The funicular runs in the morning, and in the afternoons, the cable car transports people up and down the mountain. This would be my first time ever on a funicular. So fun! I love first-time adventures! :). When we get there, the line is super long, and when we got in the line, it was shady and quite chilly! I wish I had brought another layer, lol. We get our tickets and move over to the other line, which is the line to get into the funicular. We wait what seems like forever….we didn’t adhere to the number one rule: Always go early! Lol. Lesson learned! Haha

We make it up to the top, and along the way, we pass through a long tunnel, and Dana says she believes this is the longest funicular she’s ever been on. Cool! Not bad for my first time, then! 🙂

At the top, we quickly realize that people must come up here and spend the whole day! There are so many restaurants and cafes, and even an artisan market. We don’t really want to do anything besides enjoy the views, so we head over to the wall that overlooks the city and take our photos. We tried to identify our building, and I was 99% sure I was right, but I was later proven oh so wrong, haha. Whoops! 

Once we had our fill, we headed back down in the funicular and grabbed an Uber to the Plaza del Bolívar, the heart of our neighborhood, La Candelaria. We want to walk around and see some of the colonial architecture and enjoy the area before returning to the apartment. This is our last day, after all! 

On our way to the plaza, we see a little shop that serves filled “buñuelos,” something I had my eye on since the very beginning. We get four of them, two filled with chocolate and two filled with a raspberry-like syrup. Oh man, these are delicious! Basically, it’s a fried donut ball with the goods squeezed into the middle. Yum Yum Yum! We enjoy a little snack before tackling the rest of the neighborhood. 

We come up with a plan as to how to walk around and see all the things but are thwarted by blocked roads. We then notice a caravan of 5 or 6 of the same exact vehicle with a police escort driving down the street. Ahhhh, there must be some politician or someone being brought to one of the government buildings located in this area. Cool! I bet you don’t see that every day!

We finish the walking tour by visiting one of the oldest churches in Bogotá, Nuestra Señora de La Candelaria.  It was really cool! The roof was covered in wooden beams, and the walls were covered with ornate stations of the cross, I believe. There was one section that was gated off but glistened as if they were real gold accents in there. I imagine it’s real gold, and maybe at some point, all of these stations of the cross were adorned with gold. It makes me think of the history of Latin America, and how the Spaniards and other colonial powers came and scoured the earth for precious metals, taking them back to their own countries, or using them for their churches. On the one hand, the building is wildly beautiful, but on the other hand, it’s a representation of colonialism at its worst. I’ve always struggled with that contrast, and I think I always will. 

Once back at the apartment, Dana and Hayden decide to head to a local mall in order to find replacement sneakers. Theirs are pretty trashed at this point, no thanks to the volcano hike and the most recent muddy Salento hike. I, too, left behind a pair of sneakers. I was sad to see them go, but they served me well and saw some amazing things. As far as sneakers go, they had a pretty great life, lol. 

The mall trip was successful, with both Dana and Hayden purchasing a pair of sneakers. Hooray! Now that business is taken care of, back to the apartment we go to find a place for our last meal together. Awwww. 

We look through a couple of menus, but we all unanimously agree on one called El Origen. With a group decision made, we head out, excited but feeling a bit sad that our time together is coming to a rapid end. I wanted to treat Dana and Hayden since they welcomed me so graciously to their backpacker lifestyle and let me hang out for the better part of a month. But, they beat me to it! Hehe. Great minds think alike, I guess. I’ll get you guys next time! :). During dinner, we reviewed some of our favorite moments from the last several weeks, and dang, do we have some good memories, and boy, did we eat good! Haha. 

Feeling grateful and now sufficiently full, we head out for one last helado (ice-cream) together. We make our selections, and with our cones in our hands, we walked around the little park that is directly in front of our apartment building, taking in the last views of Bogotá and Colombia. Such a bittersweet moment. I’m so grateful to have had this opportunity, but I am sad to leave it behind. I’m going home to fun things, and there will always be a new adventure waiting, but closing a chapter and saying goodbye is always tough. 

We settled back into the apartment for one last night together. We play some music as we pack up and prepare for the next grand adventure. I’m off to Boston, where my handbell group will be starting up again for the spring. I’m so excited to be back ringing handbells, and if you’re in the New England Area, please check out The New England Ringers! 🙂 Dana and Hayden are off to a surprise location, I’ll let them announce that when they’re ready :). 

Once packing is done, we decide to throw on our favorite show, The Office, and try to “work” while watching. Yeah, right, haha. I gave up on the work and just enjoyed watching one of the greatest series of all times. By 9pm, we were ready to call it a night, as we’d be catching a 5:30 Uber to the airport, for our lights the next morning. Until tomorrow! 🙂

This morning, we woke up at 5am, as we planned to catch the 5:30 Jeep to the trailhead. We are going to be hiking about 7 hours through a national park, and the main attraction is the Cocoa Valley. This valley is home to extremely tall palm trees that look otherworldly. The rest of the hike is mostly through a cloud forest, with a small section in an alpine region. Hayden researched the hike, and we’ve seen pictures, and we’re all super excited to go! An added bonus, Hayden says it’s mostly flat! Sweet!

We get to the center of Salento by 5:30ish, where the jeeps leave, and there are no jeeps and no people around. A pack of dogs comes straight for us, apparently wanting all the attention and cuddles. We waited around for quite a while, thinking about how we could’ve slept longer, hehe. Part of us being up so early was to beat the incoming rain and thunderstorms headed for Salento in the afternoon, but also to be one of the first groups to the hike, to avoid people in our pictures. 

Finally, two jeeps arrive, and I go to ask one of the drivers what time we can leave for Cocoa. He tells me not until 6:30! Hehe. Ok, better early than late, lol. Dana and I are itching for a coffee, so we spot a corner cafe just opening, and we make our way over there. We wait a minute for the machine to get warmed up and have a delicious americano while walking back towards the Jeeps. We notice a little stand, and it has the prices listed for the Jeeps. Excellent! No haggling today! It was such a smooth system, and once the ticket booth opened, we were able to pay for round trip tickets. Easy! 

We hop into an orange Jeep, and it’s full, so two other passengers hold onto the back while standing on the ledge. It only takes about 30 minutes to get there, and soon we’re scrambling out of the Jeep and taking a look at the all trails app to see where to begin. In most of our research, the best suggestions were to go counter-clockwise on the trail, saving the best part, the tall palm trees, for last. But, the hike is expected to take 5 hours, and with the weather being iffy, we decided to go clockwise. We were the first Jeep there, and we figured if we started right away, we wouldn’t run into too many other people. 

As we orient ourselves with the map and begin our hike, a pack of dogs comes to hang out with us. We named them… Scrappy, as his hair was wiry and looked like a scrappy dog, Lord Henry Charles Wadsworth Buckenheimer III Jr, as he looked like a German Shepard and English bloodhound mix, complete with the hound howl, Sirius/Padfoot, a mostly black doggo, which obviously reminded me of Harry Potter. 🙂 And last, but not least, Ms. Marble, as her coat was a brown and black marbling. These guys followed us through most of the hike, but we did eventually lose them all. 🥲 

Walking through the farmland and where the tall Cocora trees are located was so peaceful and beautiful! I couldn’t get over how tall these trees were! We took tons of pictures and were keeping our eye out for lookout points to snag the most scenic photos we could. We make our way to one lookout point and spend a little extra time there, having a few snacks, and Dana gave some clean water to Charles (his short hand name, lol). As we were finishing up, we noticed how quickly the clouds began moving into the valley. It was amazing to watch! The clouds filled in everywhere we could see, hiding most of the farmland, palm trees, and the big mountain peak in the distance. I’m glad we got our pictures when we did! Hehe. And so glad we started with the palm trees first, as we would’ve risked not seeing them at all. 

We wonder for a brief moment, if it’s best to just turn around and go back. We didn’t really want to get caught in the rain, but we were prepared with rain jackets, ponchos, and waterproof backpack covers. We decided to push on. 

This trail is anything but flat and is actually more like a continuous incline for the first 3 miles, lol. Thanks, Hayden! He then admits he based the “flat trail” assumption off of the pictures we saw online, which were of the tall palm trees, which comprises only a small section of the hike, haha. 

We come across a place that looks like we may need to pay an entry fee. We had read online that we’d have to pay twice, as the trail traversed private property. We did pay 10k pesos before we began, and this was the total amount we expected to pay. So maybe they combined the entry fees into one? There was nobody at this place, so we just walked past and kept going. 

We kept our eyes out for birds, as a sign showed us the varieties that were in the area. Two small and colorful types of toucans, the Andean condor, among other beautiful birds. I really wanted to see a condor, but ultimately, I was not rewarded with a sighting. 

We continue on our path upwards and eventually enter what appears to be an alpine zone, with some pine trees and a much cooler breeze. We arrive at a wooden gate and have to check on the all trails map which way to go. Through one side of the gate is what looks like a house, and a little boy is outside riding his bike around. The other part of the gate goes down what looks like a make-shift muddy trail, barely wide enough for a single person to walk down. It’s situated on a hill and it’s very steep. The all trails app says to go the skinny muddy route. Ok, here we go! Dana is in the lead, trying to get a snippet of video for TikTok when she slips in the mud! Thankfully, she missed all the poop that was nearby and caught herself with one of her hands. Her phone was safe, and she didn’t injure herself more than a bit of a scraped hand, thankfully. We’re now cracking up and saying that no, this trail is not flat at all, but it’s actually flat on your ass trail. Haha. 

We carefully make our way down this slippery slope, and we enter a cloud forest area. It’s beautiful and dense and humid, and with all of that comes a ton of mud. More mud than we’ve seen yet on the trail, and this is a step downhill path. Good luck to us! Haha. The dogs are still with us, Marble and Henry, and they bolt pass us as we’re trying to maintain our balance without falling, nearly knocking us off our feet. If only we also had 4 legs and were closer to the ground, maybe we’d be just as fast as them, hehe. 

We come to a part of the trail that is literally walking through a babbling brook. Are we sure we’re going in the right direction?!? Hehe. We are, and we do our best to keep our sneakers and socks dry. It’s not too long before we have our first real fall. Dana slips and slides down the trail, getting sufficiently muddy, She’s a champ and gets up, but not without some bruises and scrapes. This is definitely a “flat on your ass” trail. 😂.

Now more carefully than ever, we make our way down the trail, guided by our furry friends, and motivated by the sound of rushing water of a nearby waterfall. 

We come across some fellow hikers, going in the other direction, and one poor guy was afraid of dogs, and there were plenty around, barking, and playing rough with each other. Hope he makes it okay! We assured him the dogs we came across were very kind and wouldn’t bother him, besides wanting a few loving belly rubs. 

We found the water and it’s gorgeous! Not qutite a waterfall where we are, but its rushing pretty fast and adding a calm serenity to our hike. Now our trail crisscrosses the river, and there are small wooden suspension bridges that look like they may or may not take the weight of the three of us, let alone one of us. Yikes! I guess we’ll give it a go, lol. We cross over just fine, and it becomes quite fun, bouncing around on the bridge. There must have been 5 or 6 of these bridges, and one was unfortunately defunct. The solution to crossing was a very narrow bridge, 3 or 4 bamboo stalks in width, with a tiny wire to hold onto for support. This is crazy! And so much fun! Hehe. 

We’re coming across more and more hikers, and we realize we’re not too far from the end of the trail. We’re getting ready for a solid lunch, and hopeful we’ll miss the rain that is allegedly on its way. 

We grab a jeep back to town, and the first order of business is to walk up to the town lookout. As if we didn’t hike enough already today, we decided to hike 6 or 7 flights of stairs, haha. It was tough, but when we got up there, it was a nice view of the small town of Salento. All the tile roofs were nestled between the rolling hills, and the clouds were sneaking their way in, giving the town a cozy, dreamy look. 

On our way back down we get attacked by these little black flies, and they bite! There were people weed whacking and must’ve disturbed a nest or something, because these guys were all over us! We take off our hats and try our best to swat them away, but we are not match for their speed and dexterity. We come flailing down the stairs, smacking ourselves with our hats, and swinging our other arms all around in an attempt to prevent some of the bites and discomfort. We get to the bottom of the stairs, and Hayden is a block away, taking off his long sleeve layer, trying to get the rest of the little bugs off of him. Dana and I are helping each other, again, utilizing the hat swatting method. We manage to get most of them off, but as we walk towards our lunch spot, I find one down my shirt, and Dana had one on the back of her shirt, still trying to hitch a ride. What the heck are these things?! 

Flustered as can be, we walk into a nice restaurant and pick a table to chow down. Our hike was a brief 8 miles, and was topped off with the stair climb, and our grand finale of the black fly swarm, we were ready to sit and relax. We had some amazing hamburgers and fries, and we headed back to the hotel.

Dana and I had our sights on a massage, offered by the spa in our hotel. We checked the prices, and they had a couples special, “because we deserve it,” Naturally, after the day we had, I’d say we earned it and then some hehe. We shower and get ready for our relaxing afternoon, and head to our massage. We got a basic facial and then the full body massage began. It was so relaxing! After the massage part was over, we got to spend an hour in a jacuzzi with a cocktail! Amazing! And all of this for just $37. Totally worth it, and we loved every minute. Once we walked back to our room, we were so tired and relaxed, we tried to get some work done, but ended up falling asleep pretty early, hehe. I guess we were more exhausted than we thought hehe.

This morning, we made our way to the main park in El Poblado to catch our day tour to Guatapé. The big attraction here is an enormous rock protruding from the earth, which has a whopping 700 stairs to climb in order to get to the top. I thought we were done hiking? Haha. Never. We’re never done hiking, as there is always a hike to be done. And it’s always worth it! :). It’s a 2 hour drive from Medellín to where we will be stopping for breakfast. We had a traditional breakfast with scrambled eggs, an arepa, a portion of cheese, a piece of toast, and hot chocolate. Perfect fuel for the 700 stair climb that awaits us….right? Lol.

Next stop is the rock. Here we go! Haha. We rush to be one of the first groups of people through the ticket counter, hoping that we’ll get to the top early enough to snag some pictures without other people in them. I tracked the climb on my watch, and it only took us about 20-30 minutes, including a few rest stops and a handful of picture opportunities. I guess our hiking has paid off! Hehe. We get to the top, and the views are quite wonderful. We were blessed with an overcast sky, which helped keep it cooler, although we were still dripping with sweat, hehe. The breeze was clutch and helped refresh us after the ascent. We wander around, doing our due diligence of taking instagram worthy pictures and taking in the various views. The rock overlooks a giant man-made lake that has many unique inlets and outlets. The color of the water is a lovely greenish blue, darkened a bit by the overcast skies. Once we had our fill of the vistas, we began our trek back down the rock. 

The way down was a separate staircase and much more narrow than the one going up. This caused a significant traffic jam, as we were relegated to move at the pace of those ahead of us. Every once in a while, the slower groups would pull off to the side as much as the narrow stairs would allow, and we’d creep around the corner and resume our own pace. 

Once we were back to the flat ground, we spent some time looking for sunglasses for me. I don’t think I’ve mentioned it yet, but my sunglasses broke quite a while ago, and at this point, I can’t remember where we were when I discovered this, lol. The frame cracked, and the one lens would fall out if I wasn’t careful, but for the most part, they were still functional, lol. Dana told me I needed to replace them, but I also wanted the challenge of seeing if I could make it the rest of the trip with them, hehe. Anyways, while we were going through the sunglasses, I did find a pair that was the style I was looking for, and they were multi-colored, which was what I was also what I was looking for. When I was living in El Salvador, I always managed to find wild neon colored sunglasses, or once a pair that was covered in little flowers, and another pair that had multiple colors, all of different parts of the frames. So, the ones that I found were designed with the three colors of the Colombian flag: red, yellow, and blue. Cool! So I go ahead and buy them, Dana now satisfied that I can ceremoniously throw out my old ones. 

Our next stop was the town of Guatapé, which is the most colorful city in the Americas, and second only to a town in China, according to our guide. A quick google search claims the most colorful town in the world is actually in Indonesia. 🧐. Top colorful town or not, it was so cute! Early in its history, the houses were made of wood, and needed protection against the rain and humidity, so the solution was to build a wall around the building, half a story tall, and put images on them. This collected the water, and it ran into the streets as opposed to sticking to and rotting the wooden structures. These are called zocalos. At one point, all the houses were required to have these, and if not, they had to paint their house a bright color, and this is how they managed to become the most colorful town in the Americas. 

We wandered about, hoping to find a place for a coffee and a smoothie, but all the restaurants accepted cash only, or a minimum purchase of 50k pesos to pay with a card. 50k would’ve been fine if we were buying lunch, but our lunch was also included in this tour. We were trying to conserve our cash for our next couple of days, but we had to burn some to get out drinks. And good thing we did, as we ordered coffee to warm us from the cold breeze blowing through town.

After Guatapé, we had lunch, and again, it was delicious! I had beef, beans, rice, a plantain, and a little mixed salad. And to wash it all down, we were given a sugarcane lemonade. Yum! 

And now, onto the last adventure of the day: a boat ride on the man-made lake. But first, we were told to go visit what was left of the old town of El Peñol. This town was demolished in order to create the lake, which serves a giant reservoir for the surrounding towns. It was the traditional colonial architecture, and all the stores were touristy souvenir shops. It didn’t’ take us long to walk around, and we headed down to where the boats were. 

As we are standing there, an announcement is being made from what looks like a floating barge, instructing us to get onto one of the boats. Sweet! We’ll get the first pick of our seats. They make us take life vests, and we all groan a bit. It seems like in this part of the world, health and safety are almost an afterthought. For example, hiking up to the ridge of an active volcano is fine, but getting on a boat without a life vest is where the line is drawn, lol. I was forced to take a life vest once before, and was told I needed to wear it in the water, so I did, and it was so big, it actually inhibited me from swimming properly. At that point, all it does is keep you afloat until you’re rescued, but think about swimming somewhere to safety, forget it! Haha. 

We ran up to the top deck; there were 3 levels on this thing! We sit next to our new friends we made from Miami, Mike, and Alexa. They’ve just come down for a long weekend adventure, as the flights are so easy from Miami! How cool! During the boat ride, our guide shares with us that the big cross ahead of us is where the old church used to be located before they flooded the area. It was really neat to be floating above what once was a town center, and on the outskirts of the lake, a couple of remnant colonial buildings that didn’t need to be demolished for the lake. What a neat history! 

And then, the coolest history lesson was a small swath of hilly terrain that had some ruins on it. We were told that this was once a farm owned by Pablo Escobar himself! Wow! La Finca is what it was called, and I’m pretty sure that’s the first one he bought, as it’s in a show I’m watching about him. Apparently, he built his homes with double walls as a preventative measure, and most of his properties were not unlike bunkers. I guess you gotta be smart when you’re in that industry, lol. We’ve read and been told that Pablo Escobar is a touchy subject for many Colombians, and out of respect, we steered clear from any tours about him. But here, we were rewarded with a little snippet! Sweet! 

Our turning around point on the boat tour was a gorgeous shot of the giant rock we walked up, way off into the distance. It doesn’t look as intense from here, hehe. The ride back was cold as the sun completely disappeared behind the ominous gray clouds. There were a few young men behind us drinking beers and being rowdy. We think they must be part of a bachelor party or something. Dana, Hayden, and I, and the couple from Miami all roll our eyes, and thank god we’re no longer in our 20s, lol. That party lifestyle is no longer for us, haha. While still young and adventurous, none of us feel the need to be partying while traveling, hehe. 

Back on the bus for another 2 hour ride back to Medellín. We hit some traffic, and it takes a bit longer than anticipated, but we finally get back to the Poblado park. We get off the bus and have jelly legs, hehe. But even so, we walk towards our favorite supermarket to get some snacks for our 5 hour bus ride tomorrow, and for the 5 hour hike we’ll be doing the day after. Back to the grind! :). 

We had a lovely dinner of pasta with peas and broccoli, and the most delicious pesto bread from the grocery store bakery, and some M&M brownies for dessert. We watched a few episodes of The Office before turning in for the night. Next stop, Salento! 🙂

The next day, our bus didn’t leave until 9:15, so we had a good chunk of time in the morning. We woke up a bit earlier than usual, as Dana and I wanted to shower and we still had to pack our bags, have breakfast, and figure out next steps for Dana and Hayden! I won’t give any secrets away, but their plans are always spur of the moment and can change with the slightest hiccup or connection. 

We get to the bus station in plenty of time, and just stand around waiting to get on. The bus looks like one you’d assume would transport you between big cities, comfortable seats, big windows, and it does have a bathroom! But, the bus is shorter than those typical larger ones. Our ride is allegedly “only” 5 hours. At the time I’m writing this, we’re going on 6 hours and change, lol. 

But, the ride has been beautiful, through the tall mountains, down winding roads, set right along the ledge. Most of these roads we traveled were in excellent condition, and we passed by several road work areas, clearly enhancing the highway system. We went through several tunnels, each remarkably well done, with obvious emergency exits, and fire hydrants every 100 meters or so. I’ve never felt so scared or embarrassed by the tunnels in Boston, lol. I risk my life every time I go to work, traversing the Sumner Tunnel, which looks like it could cave in at any moment, lol. Thankfully they’re working on it…but I doubt it’ll ever be as nice as the ones here in Colombia. 🤣

The tall mountains are capped with clouds that seem to just spill over the tops and into the upper forests. We drive alongside several rushing and wide brown rivers, presumably fed by the rain fall higher up in the mountains. We enter the coffee region, as becomes obvious when as far as the eye can see are hillsides covered in coffee plants, some young and short, and others robust and full. I’m looking forward to a coffee tour, that is, if we can fit it in! 🙂

We get into town and walk in the rain towards our hotel. We’re clearly in the mountains and it’s chilly and wet here, hehe. We check in and get situated in the hotel and head out immediately to find some food. Hayden found a restaurant and we were so hungry, we didn’t really care about what they had; we figured we’d find something worthwhile on the menu, lol. We each got a chicken dish, and the piece of chicken was just about as big as the plate. No way were we going to finish the whole thing, lol. We ate while the cool breeze blew into the restaurant, blowing out the decorative candles they had on each of the tables. 

Full and happy, we return to our hotel room to shower and get some sleep before an early morning tomorrow.

Today, our main objective is to take a walking tour of Comuna 13 in the western part of Medellín. This community was the most dangerous place in the city 20 years ago and arguably the most dangerous community in the world. Contrary to popular belief, this was not in any way related to Pablo Escobar, as the violence in Comuna 13 surged after Escobar’s death. The community sits in a strategic location geographically within the city of Medllín; the main road that connects the city to the coast lies just behind the mountains of Comuna 13. Any goods that were being trafficked in or out of the city passed through that road, and anyone in control of Comuna 13 had control of the highway and the goods being trafficked. 

There were several guerillas and paramilitary groups that were fighting for that control, and these conflicts led to the surging violence in this community. However, in 2002, the government stepped in and decided to invest and try to improve the area. They did so in a controversial way, at best, but ultimately succeeded in the “clean-up” of Comuna 13. They brought in the government military to take out the biggest players of the guerillas and paramilitary groups, and the last operation lasted 3 days and included 2 helicopters shooting down into the community, apparently aiming at the main targets, but how could they possibly be so precise, many wonder. A tank was also brought in, and local residents put mattresses up on their windows to slow down or prevent stray bullets from getting inside their homes. Our tour guide, Cristian, grew up in the community and remembers gathering in the kitchen, and looking out of their window and seeing all the mattresses in the neighboring homes.

After this operation, the government began heavily investing in the community. One of the first projects was to build a cable car metro station. As far as I’m aware, Medellín is one of the only cities to use cable cars as a part of the city transit system. The majority of the city is located in a valley surrounded by very tall and steep mountains. The city has sprawled up these slopes, and as we experienced with our poor Uber driver, Lorena, it’s nearly impossible to access the tops of these communities by car. The cable cars help make the main city more accessible for the communities. 

Another large project was to build outdoor escalators in another area of the community, again increasing accessibility for the residents to the main city. And these escalators have made that area of Comuna 13 a major tourist attraction in Medellín. For me personally, it was a must see, and if you ever make it to Medellín, that’s a non-negotiable place to visit. I loved it so much, and I think it was easily my favorite part of Colombia so far. 

Some of the other projects were to build a new university in the same location that once housed the women’s prison and a community driven project to encourage street art and hip hop. The touristy area of Comuna 13 is filled with expressive murals and graffiti, retelling the tales of the community’s transformation. And there are multiple hip hop groups performing African rhythms and breakdancing, the former a reminder of the influence of the Afro-Colombian influence in the community. Commun 13 is largely comprised of people who were displaced from other areas near the coast and who came to Medellín in search of a calmer life. Many of the homes built were not legal, and many today still do not have official titles. I admire the resiliency of this community and their drive to build a better future for themselves. 

The community itself is a network of tiny staircases that connect the different levels of houses, and narrow streets where motorbikes pass through. There were a handful of cars, but honestly, there wasn’t much room for them. If we didn’t have our guide, Cristian, there is no way we’d be able to find our way around, hehe. The main road that leads straight towards the escalators was easy to find, but weaving in and out of the maze of passageways and narrow alleys was difficult at best. 

As we walk around, I am just taking in the views of stacked homes and brightly colored murals. For me, it was a beautiful sight and an inspiring example of how a community can organize and improve their circumstances. We were told by Cristian that things aren’t 100%, and there is still a level of insecurity, but compared to 20 years ago, it’s eons better. A lot of the improvements are in part thanks to the government investments. I wonder how that could be applied to some of the communities FUNDAHMER (the NGO I volunteered for in El Salvador) works with. The community organization is excellent, and there are many projects funded by sister communities, but what appears to be lacking is government investment. I’d like to learn more about Comuna 13 and how it has evolved so much in just a short 20-year period. 

We finish the tour in a rooftop cafe that serves a local specialty: hot chocolate with cheese! Haha, yes, you read that right; a bowl of hot chocolate and pieces of either mozzarella or “cuajada,” a wet fresh cheese floating in the chocolate. It seems like an odd combination, but I love chocolate, and I love cheese, so naturally, it must be a delicious treat?! It was better than anticipated, and I nearly drank (or should I say ate?) the whole thing! Hehe. I sipped some chocolate, and that forked out a bit of the cheese. I’m pretty sure Trader Joe’s sells, or sold at one point, a chocolate cheese….is this my new quest? To find chocolate cheese? Hehe.

While in the cafe, our guide was preparing a demonstration on graffiti. He showed us how to use the can of spray paint properly, and then gave us each a try. It was way more difficult than it looked, and I now have a whole new appreciation for graffiti artists. I thought I took his tips into consideration, but my “tag” just looked awful, lol. That was a very neat and unexpected part of the tour. 

I could’ve stayed here all day, and there were questions I didn’t have answered, like beyond this touristy area of Comuna 13, how do the other residents feel about the escalator investments, and all the tourism that comes to just a small area? Is there any resentment? Do all the inhabitants of the larger Comuna 13 support the touristy area? I just might need to come back and explore some more :). 

One thing our guide told us is that the minimum wage in Colombia is about 1.3 million pesos ($250/month) and an average rent for the lowest “stratus” (socio-economic class, if you will) is around 700,000 pesos. Rather than divide the population into lower, middle, and upper class, here in Colombia, it’s divided into strata: 1-7, with 1 being the lowest, with the majority of the inhabitants in Comuna 13 falling into status 1. We also learned that during a census, the government fills out a questionnaire that eventually categorizes you into one of the strata. Those in the higher strata pay more for public services, with the extra amount subsidizing those resources for the lower strata, and the lowest strata getting free access to things like health care. Cristian pointed out that this is a socialist system, but Medellín is a conservative city, and most wouldn’t accept this system as being socialist, and yet it exists. Another interesting little fact he shared with us was that in the glamorous expat neighborhood, El Poblado, the higher you go up the mountain, with the better views, the more money it costs. The exact opposite is true in Comuna 13, as the higher you go, the less accessible it is. This thought had never crossed my mind, but I suppose that would be true almost anywhere in the world. If you can pay for the nice view, and pay for a decent road to get there, it’s for the wealthy. If the location is remote and high up, with little to no access, even with a view to die for, it becomes a home for those with less money and resources. 

Once the tour was over, we went back to the apartment for some food and a recharge. We wanted to head out and check out the neighborhood we were staying in, El Poblado. It’s one of the nicest places to stay in the city, and is where most of the expats live. There are a ton of restaurants, from Mexican to Vietnamese to American to typical Colombian. There are tons of bars and clubs, and we can easily imagine what it’s like on a Friday night. Too bad we’re in our 30s now and are usually done for the day before the sun sets, lol. One day we came back and were planning to head out and explore a bit, but needed up playing more Family Feud and Jeopardy on Dana’s iPad, lol, battling someone named Isabelle, who we assumed was a 7 year old sitting on her mom’s couch. Bring it on! Haha.

We woke up at our normal time, around 7am, since our flight wasn’t until 10:45. Nice! It feels great not waking up in the dark for an early departure. Hehe. Dana and I had some morning java and we got a bit of work done before packing up and tidying the apartment before check out. 

We took an Uber to the airport, and had to put our masks on again, and we waltzed straight through security and found some seats near our gate. We were there super early, as we weren’t sure if we could make it to the lounge or not. Turns out the lounge was just for international travelers in the international terminal. So, no. We wouldn’t get to grab breakfast and water from the lounge. Too bad for us, lol.

We pass the time watching silly TikTok and instagram videos, and before we know it, it’s almost time to board the plane. We bought a ticket on Viva Airlines, and it appears to be the Spirit of South America, hehe. Bright yellow budget airplane, here we come! We were a bit worried about getting our bags stowed, so we did what I hate to see in airports and crowded the gate area, hoping to sneak on sooner than our boarding zone. Another great friend of mine did this when we were trying to fly out of Cairo together, and it worked to our benefit. It’s a dog-eat-dog world out there, and sometimes, you just gotta be selfish and take care of you. I got a bit behind Dana and Hayden and scanned my boarding pass after them, but all the passengers were corralled in a long line waiting to go outside to the tarmac. So, I just scoot myself up to them, and we look around us, all thinking the worst about our bags. Flying budget airlines is pure chaos, lol. 

We are boarding from the front and the back, so Hayden goes to the rear door, and Dana and I board from the front. There was plenty of space for our bags, and we quickly stow our backpacks and take our seats. Watching the rest of the passengers file on and attempt to find their seats was a great reminder as to why I prefer to fly “flight leader” or in the way back of the plane, where there is less chance of dealing with this 3-ring circus. I am also thinking about how grateful I am to work for the airline I work for: mental note to remember not to take it for granted, hehe. 

The flight to Medellin is only about an hour, and we arrive on time. The landscape is very different from Cartagena, as we are now in the mountains. It’s cloudy, and feels as though it has just rained. The landscape is so green and lush, and I can almost taste the delicious coffee awaiting us. The Uber ride to our apartment was quite long, but we got to see a lot of the countryside, and it was gorgeous! I’m stoked to be here, especially after getting beat down and burned by the hot sun on the coast. I’m so ready to be in a mountain city, and I’m hoping it stays cool here. 

We get to our apartment, and it’s adorable, as always. Thanks, Dana! Hayden and I ventured out to the local grocery store to grab some goodies, and we all decided we’d have a rest day today. Rule number one: don’t go grocery shopping when you’re hungry! Haha. Hayden and I bought so many snacks! Hehe. All worth it, except for the long wait to check out. Apparently their computer systems were wicked slow, so we just had to attempt it and see what fate had in store for us. The woman in front of us took forever, but when it was finally our turn, we managed to get through relatively quickly. 

We traipse back to the apartment, and Hayden begins working on dinner. I just love traveling with a chef. I’ve only made one meal this entire time hehe. Thanks, Hayden! 

After we finish dinner, we retreat to our rooms and just get comfy and ready to watch Netflix. Dana wasn’t feeling 100%, and we all decided it was best for us to rest, as we didn’t want to wear down our bodies any more or risk anyone feeling unhealthy or over-tired. 

I didn’t realize how badly I needed a “do-nothing” day, hehe. I started to watch a series about Pablo Escobar, because, you know… lol. We’ve read and heard contrasting opinions on the infamous narcotraficante; some say it’s better not to mention his name or go on the tours, because the city is still healing and wants to forget those times. Other sources recommend the tour, and there is one neighborhood that was essentially built from Escobar’s personal money, so they adore him in that area. Hmm.. I think it best to learn about this history from Netflix. Maybe next time we can hit up a tour. 🙂

We all fall asleep early, with stars in our eyes, thinking about the adventures awaiting us tomorrow. 

Tomorrow morning comes quickly, and we wake up like clockwork at 7am! Haha, I guess we’re trained now, lol. Dana started making the coffee, and we were ready to take turns peeing in the 1 bathroom we are now sharing. So much for these apartments with private bathrooms. Dana: We need to talk about your choices hehe. Just kidding! The apartment is lovely. 

Medellin is HUGE. So we create a plan for the day and decide to Uber around, as it’s just too big to walk conveniently. We go to the center of town first, where we are warned by our Uber driver to not go down the streets behind our drop-off location. He explained that the heart of Medellin is not the safest and to be extra careful when walking around here. Yikes! I mean, I think we’ve all been to places like this, but it’s always a bit unnerving when a local tells you what it’s really like. The three of us are pretty well traveled, and we understand the mission. Keep your belongings close, don’t keep your phone out too much, and being three people, we can look out for each other. Done! I love traveling with friends :). 

The Plaza Botero is the very heart of the city, and the plaza has several statues from a Colombian artist, Fernando Botero, who exaggerates the shapes of his subjects, mostly humans and animals. Back in Cartagena, we saw so many paintings of quite voluptuous ladies, and we wondered what the story was. I finally googled it, and found out about the artist. Aha! It all makes sense now hehe. 

Dana found a neat picture of a place in the old National Palace, which has been converted into a kind of bazaar. We walked inside, and it was stunning! I really didn’t expect to see something like that. It was a decadently designed building, complete with multiple floors and chandeliers. It reminded us a bit of something we’d see in a Harry Potter movie, perhaps. We spent some time walking around and gawking at the beautiful architecture. 

From here, we decide to grab another Uber and head to the cable car that will take us to the top of one of the mountains surrounding the city. The end point of the cable car is the Arvi Park. Little did we know, this drive would be a ride to remember. 

Lorena picks up in the center of town, in the middle of the traffic. She admits that she doesn’t come to town often and is heavily relying on Waze to get her out of there. Our ride starts off just fine, but then the GPS tells her to turn left, and it doesn’t really look like a road, but okay. She must know where she is going? 

Nope! Haha. We are driving right down a pedestrian/bike lane, and on either side of us are street vendors. Lucky for us, her car was small enough to fit through, so we just kept going. We saw some local police ahead of us, and I thought they would stop her or say something to her, but they didn’t! I’m sure they were wondering what the hell we were doing there, but Lorena kept on going. Now we were in the middle of a square, with more street vendors, park benches, and plenty of pedestrians. How on earth are we gonna get out of this mess? 

Lorena spots an exit, or more realistically, a small gap between vendor carts that is flush with the actual road, so we head in that direction. As we’re passing by, some of the owners of the carts angrily shout and look at us as if we’re absolutely nuts. But we found the main road once again. Phew! We’re all dying laughing, saying this will be quite the story for the day. 

But the ride isn’t over yet! 

We didn’t realize that the cable car we want to take is already halfway up the mountain, so Lorena needs to get us up some incredibly steep hills. She’s driving a standard, and we all know San Francisco has some tough streets to maneuver a manual car, but the streets on these mountains have nothing on SFO. Lorena’s poor car couldn’t quite get the gumption to make it up one of the steeper hills. Oh dear. So backwards we go. She tries to give the car all its go to gain traction and get us up the hill. No luck. So she backs all the way down and looks for an alternative route. Oh man. If that was me, I think I’d just park the car and cry, lol. We tried a few more times to get her car up different hills with varying degrees of steepness, and we failed a couple more times. Each failure leads us to a new hill and a new attempt. Finally! We make it! Lorena is our hero, and she pulls off to the side of the street, and we hop out, giving her all the thanks we can and we sincerely apologize for having her bring us this high. Thank you, Lorena! 

We go to the cable car station and pay our ticket, and wait to snag a gondola for ourselves. The ride is supposed to take 15 minutes to the top. Sweet! We jump in and are instantly amazed with the views. Behind us is the sweeping valley that is filled with the bustling city of Medellin, and in front of us, on the steep slopes of the mountain are tons of homes, built right into the side of the mountain. Dana has an observation that most of the homes are in rough shape, and we figure some of those people are struggling. And here we are, the “rich,” literally floating above them in a gondola. Talk about a contradiction! Our ride up took a somber turn as we discussed this. 

Traveling is such an amazing privilege, and it’s in these moments I’m most grateful for it. Seeing how other people live in different countries really puts things into perspective. We are not rich by our definition of the word, or in comparison to the 1% in the US, but we are rich when compared to the majority of the world’s population, and almost certainly compared to the people living in the homes we saw as we swung high above, admiring the landscape. It’s hard not to feel guilty at times. We discussed the different definitions of rich; that a person can be rich with money, but poor in quality of life, or vice versa. Even so, that stark contrast is a reminder not to take anything for granted. 

We pull ourselves out of the slightly depressing theme and begin to imagine what the park will be like when we arrive. It’s a long 15 minutes, but we finally get there, and as we get off the gondola, it’s quite clear we’ve gained altitude. It’s so chilly! Hehe. We expected to enter the Arvi Park and walk a few trails, but it cost $10 to get in. We didn’t do enough research, and we decided we’d skip it and just hang out in the free areas. Dana and I bought a coffee, and we added cinnamon! Such a nice touch :). Hayden got a bowl of strawberries and raspberries, with a raspberry sauce on top. Yum! We wandered about through the vendor area, and I was drawn to a copper ring with what looked like a raw emerald in it. The woman said she makes them all by hand and that it is, in fact, a real emerald. A young, raw emerald. I paid $10 for it, and it was hard for me to believe it was in fact a true emerald, but later in the day, Dana looked up how to tell if it’s a real one or not, and we did our best to inspect the stone, and we agreed that maybe it is! The raw emeralds are readily available here in Colombia, and their prices can range anywhere between $1 and hundreds, if not thousands. So, with that kind of price range, maybe the stone I have really is an emerald! And, to think I was considering buying an expensive piece of jewelry with an emerald since that is a big precious gem here in Colombia. I like my $10 raw emerald the best :). 

We head back down the cable car, and we have a good time trying to get the perfect photos and videos, although the dirty windows made it difficult. We also decided it’d be best not to ask an Uber to come up the harrowing streets Lorena had to endure for us, so we bought tickets for the metrocable, another cable car, but this one is part of the Medellin metro line. So cool! I don’t know of any other cities that have metros that include cable cars. What a fun experience! 

Once back on sturdy land, we grab another Uber to head to a hipster market to hopefully find some grub. This Uber driver was a hoot! I sat in the front, and began speaking with him in Spanish. He was trying to convince me to invest in some land of his, and to start a coffee business, haha. He explained how he knew about the entire process of coffee, from planting it, taking care of it, picking it when it’s ready, toasting it, etc. He even said his coffee farm doesn’t use pesticides or any other chemicals. He was really trying to sell it! After I declined a few times, he came back to me with the great exchange rate between the US dollar and the Colombian peso. I kept telling him how someday in the future, that’d be great, but I’m not ready just yet to invest in and start an international coffee business, lol. He was so nice, though, just excited, I think. 

Once at the market, the three of us are hangry and unable to make solid decisions. Uh-oh! So we walk around this place, which has tons of food options, and we study several menus, but none of us can really make a choice as to what we want to eat. Great. It’s now or never for food, before we start really getting hangry. With some frustration, we opt to walk back towards the apartment, as there are restaurant options there. We pop into the apartment to chug some water and to find a place that looks good. 

Dana finds one and makes a final decision. This is where we are going. Great! Let’s go before we kill each other, lol. We head over there, just a block away from where we’re staying, and it turns out to be a space with 5 different restaurants! Haha. The irony of leaving one market with several options and ending up in another. How will we ever choose what to eat?! Gah!

It takes us a while, but we do order some food, and Dana and I try two different microbrew beers. Colombia is home to 33 microbreweries! Sweeeet! The one Dana picks is called “Rosada.” “Like a rosé wine,” we wonder? It IS! So weird, yet tasty. Almost like a sour beer, in that it is fruity, but it’s sweet like a rosé wine. I have never heard of anything like this, and now will be on the lookout. I don’t think it’ll be my new favorite, but it gets points for being unique, that’s for sure.

As we’re finishing dinner, the dark clouds roll in and we know we’re in for it, lol. We finish paying, and it starts to pour rain. We carried our raincoats all day, well, Hayden carried them all day in the backpack. Thanks, Hayden! But when we stopped by the apartment before dinner, we left the bag because we didn’t think we’d need it anymore. Ooops! 

We decide to make a run for it, and are rewarded. It stopped pouring, and we made it back to the apartment with just a few sprinkles of rain here and there. Phew! What a day! 

Back inside, we start to do work, polishing up blog posts, pictures, and journaling for the day. Tomorrow we have a few things on our list of what to see in the city, and we hope the weather holds out for us. Fingers crossed!

Good morning, Cartagena! Today we decided to take it more leisurely and not put a set time on our departure from the apartment. Our main plan is to check out the Getsemani neighborhood, which is famous for all of its street art, and to revisit some places in the walled city we didn’t get to yesterday. 

Getsemani was a funky, colorful little place. We got dropped off at the far end of it, and we just started walking and exploring the side streets covered in murals. There were a few streets that were decorated with flags, umbrellas, and even kites! We had fun taking pictures and getting in each other’s way when framing the perfect shot haha. 

We even got a nice view of the castle, but we decided to focus our energies on what was right in front of us for now. Maybe later we’ll be up for a castle visit. After getting our fill of Getsemani, we walked back towards the walled city to finish what we started yesterday. We had another mission to find the perfect shot of the cathedral from a rooftop. This was inspired by a photograph in our apartment that Hayden fell in love with. He wanted to have his very own picture of the same angle, requiring a rooftop photo-op. We went to one that had great reviews, but they didn’t open until noon. It was only 10am hehe. Now what?

Smoothie time! Hayden finds the second best smoothie place in the city, as the first best was temporarily closed, and we were on our way! We get there, and this place looks fabulous! But, the woman behind the counter told us all they had were prepared eparfaits, no smoothies. Bummer! We all agree we really want a smoothie, so we duck out of there and find another option. All the way back across town haha. We make our way back, still soaking in all the colors and flowery balconies that we’re passing. Hayden and I are trigger happy with the photos, and Dana begs Hayden not to take any more pictures, as she’s the one who has to go through them and delete and edit them later. 

We get to the new smoothie place, and we’re in luck! They do have smoothies, and a whole bunch of different ones! We each order and have a seat, grateful to be sheltered from the sun and drinking a refreshing fruit cocktail. We created a game plan for the rest of the afternoon, which included walking along the wall and passing by the Gabriel Garcia Marquez house, and “las bovedas,” which used to be dungeons, but are now souvenir shops. I was especially interested to see the house because I read one GGM’s books, Love in the Time of Cholera, in Spanish, with two of my best friends. We started a little book club during covid, and we would read a chapter or so at a time and talk about it. The Spanish was difficult for me to understand at times, and the genre being magical realism sometimes threw me for a loop, hehe. But I loved the challenge of reading such an iconic Spanish Literature piece, and I hope to tackle more in the future. 

The house came up quickly, and I took a good look at it from the wall, but it didn’t look like something I wanted or needed to get closer to. Maybe I would’ve taken a tour or paid an entry fee, if such a thing existed, but I didn’t feel the draw as much as I thought I would’ve. Maybe it was the pounding heat getting to me, hehe. So we continued on towards “las bovedas.”

We arrive there, and we spot our dreaded enemy: the cruise ship busses. Oh no. This place is packed like sardines! But, it’s a neat building, and Dana requires a Colombia patch. We muster what little strength and gumption we have left and begin our search. The first store we went to, we found a super cool and unique patch! Hooray! But, Hayden suggests we look at some other stores before deciding on which patch to buy. Dana is up to going to 3 more shops, but by the time we were leaving the 3rd shop, we were committed, lol. We walked the whole length and went inside nearly every souvenir shop that looked like it might have a patch. At the end, we all felt that the first patch was THE patch. 

So back we go! Thanks to Dana and Hayden, I’ve now learned that when purchasing a patch, it’s always good to double check the spelling of the country, and to check the quality. So we sift through all the patches, but as it turns out, the first patch on the pile, in the first store we went in, was THE patch. Sweet! Totally meant to be. I also found an adorable little coin purse I had been keeping my out for since Guatemala. I guess I was meant to find one here :). Hayden also scored a little treat. Earlier in the day, I bought some typical sweets, and was given a 1.000 peso coin in change. It was soooooo neat! Hayden and I both like to collect currency, so he saw it and needed to have one too. So when Dana bought her patch, she received 2-500 peso coins, and Hayden asked her to see if they could exchange it for a 1000 coin. She lovingly told him to ask, and because I would want one if the roles were reversed, I went and asked on Hayden’s behalf. Score! One of the women working there had one right in her pocket :). So a trade was made, and a happy camper was born. Your welcome, Hayden! 

We’re about to head back to the apartment, but after a quick check-in with everyone, we realize Hayden is still hankering for that perfect rooftop shot of the cathedral. Awesome! Let’s do this. So we go back to the first rooftop bar, since they’re now open, and climb up an incalculable amount of stairs. We get to the top, out of breath and begin checking out the view. Well, it IS nice, of the clock tower, but the cathedral is barely peeking around another big building between us and the church. Haha. Womp Womp. Back to the drawing board. 

I ask one of the servers where we can find a rooftop that would have the view we’re looking for, and she gives me a name. Excellent! Off we go! We get there, I check to make sure they have a rooftop restaurant, and they say yes, but they don’t open it until 4pm! Haha what? It’s 1pm and we’re about as dead as can be, and most definitely won’t be making it until 4. Dang! I guess that perfect shot was not destined for us. 

So we walked back across town. Again. At this point, we feel we’ve covered each street at least a couple of times, haha. We grab some supplies at our favorite grocery store that looks like a target, complete with clothes, electronics, and groceries. We buy a baguette, mozzarella cheese slices, and a few other things. We’re making chicken parm, a la backpacker style! Hayden cooked some frozen chicken nuggets, and then cut the baguette into 3 sections, divided the cheese amongst the thirds, and then we added the nuggets into the sandwiches. And we had leftover ketchup from last night’s chicken nugget dinner, so we added that as our marinara sauce. Buen Provecho! Haha And welcome to a full-time traveler’s budget lifestyle! Hehe

After dinner, we showered and did a final load of laundry. This apartment has been amazing. Hot water, working washer and dryer, and just a really nice, clean, modern feel to it. It will be missed. 

Tomorrow we’re off on another jet plane to Medellin! Chau!

We landed in Cartagena, Colombia! Another dream come true! I’ve heard so many excellent things about Cartagena, and I’ve been itching to go for a while now, and I’m so glad we worked it into this trip! After El Salvador, we were supposed to go to Nicaragua, but it ended up being too complicated, lol. Either a 16-hour bus or expensive flights in and out, so the natural solution to the problem was obviously to fly to Colombia! Hehe.

We got a quick Uber ride to our airbnb, which wasn’t ready yet, so we left our bags in the apartment and walked to the walled city. There is a part of Cartagena that is surrounded by an old wall, and that’s the main attraction here. We went in search of an ATM and some food. Another typical routine of ours…cash, food, and a grocery store, lol. We found a place to try arepas, a typical food from Colombia. Not completely unlike pupusas, they are fried corn tortillas stuffed with a variety of ingredients. Delicious! And of course, Dana and I tried a local beer, the Club Colombia. We were served the coldest, crispest beers we’ve had on this trip so far. Perfect for such hot weather. Although, the wind is also brutally strong here, too, so that helps to cool off a bit. 

After a trip to the grocery store to get some staples for breakfast, we walk back to the airbnb and check out the rooftop pool! The airbnb is in one of those tall condo buildings I saw from the plane and it has an infinity pool on the roof. What?! Haha. This is awesome! We get up there, and the water is luke warm at best, and the wind was so fierce, it actually made us cold, hehe. So we didn’t stay for long, but we observed our surroundings, which were still very hazy. I wonder if it is like this all the time, or if today is just especially hazy. Time will tell!

Once back inside the apartment, we shower…hot water! Woohoo! And begin doing our work :). Can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings!

Alarm is set for 6:30am, but I’m awake before then, as has now become customary, lol. I stay in bed until just before 7, when I finally get up and put on a pot of coffee. I’m excited (anyone surprised? Haha) to try the coffee we picked up at the grocery store yesterday. It was the cheapest bag we could find, but it is Colombian coffee. I settle in and get some writing and picture editing work done while the java is brewing. As soon as it’s done, I grab myself a cup and dive in. It smells heavenly, and my first sips of the black gold can only be described as pure bliss. It’s so flavorful, with notes of acidic berries and rich chocolate. I’m in love. Hehe. 

We head out the door by 8:30 and walk to the walled city, hoping to grab a few pictures before meeting our walking tour at 10. It’s morning, but the sun is out with a vengeance, and sweat is literally dripping down my face, and I’m quite positive each one of my pores was on overdrive, lol. This is gonna be a tough day. 😅

We meet our walking tour just outside the walled city, near the clock tower. We’re early, naturally, and end up waiting quite a while before the tour starts. It’s a HUGE group, and Dana, Hayden, and I all give each other the look, thinking this isn’t gonna be good. Our guide takes us over to some shade, and begins explaining a couple of basic facts about the city of Cartagena. She has a microphone and a small speaker, but it just doesn’t compete with the busses and traffic passing us by on the road. This will be a long 2-hour tour. 

We move on to the next stop, now inside the city walls, and again, even protected from the main street, it’s difficult to hear our guide. There are other groups near us doing similar tours, and honestly, it’s tiring to strain your ears to hear. I’m doing alright, and she asked us a trivia question about something she had just told us, and I answered and got it right! And was rewarded with a little mango candy. Hehe. Yes! And now, onto the third stop. By this point, the three of us were already discussing whether or not we’d stick it out. We didn’t want to waste 2 hours following a guide around that we could barely hear. So we stay for another two stops, and finally decide we’ll conveniently “lose” the group and go on our own self-guided wandering tour. Haha 

While plotting our getaway, we did actually lose sight of the group, and we just slowly skirted away to the opposite of the plaza we were in. Success! We all felt a tad guilty, as it wasn’t the guide’s fault, but it just wasn’t worth it to us. We hope she made out okay with her tips, despite us and some others bailing on her, since it was such a large tour group.

We walk around on our own, simply letting our eyes guide us. If we spot something interesting, we’ll head in that direction. We eventually come to a road lined with tour busses which we think must be from cruises. And sure enough, each of the busses has a sign identifying which cruise it’s from and which number bus it is. Oh god. There have got to be hundreds, if not thousands of cruise people roaming the streets with us. Hehe. I wouldn’t say that’s a terrible thing in itself, but the sheer quantity of people inundating the city sure is. The sidewalks are so filled with people it’s difficult to walk on the sidewalks without nearly tripping over someone’s feet, or being bumped into the road, narrowly missing the one brave car that has attempted to traverse the people filled streets. Yikes! 

Continuing on our stroll, we see various artwork on the streets, and start asking for prices. To our surprise, most people give us a similar price, although we know we can probably haggle and get it for cheaper. We make a plan to come back tomorrow with a game plan. Our walk takes us past beautiful colonial buildings with the most ornate balconies, covered in flowers and vines. Cartagena is such a beautiful place to just walk around and admire the colorful architecture. 

Expect for the heat. Haha. We’re good and toasted at this point, so we head to a restaurant for lunch. One of the sides that came with our meals was coconut rice, and it was so delicious! I ordered a fish fillet with a creamy garlic-lemon sauce. It was also yummy, but the sauce was all I could taste. I figured getting fish in a sea-side city would be the right choice, and maybe it was, but not with a strong flavored sauce on top hehe. 

Once we had our fill and cooled off for a bit, back out we went, iinto the sauna that is Cartagena. We had a few missions to accomplish before heading back to our wonderful apartment. I was tasked with getting a t-shirt from a specific hotel for a friend of mine, and Hayden was bent on getting “the shot” he saw on google. We attempt to find the street that would give us said shot, but it’s just not quite right. We look at the picture again to try and determine where it was taken from, but we finally decide it must’ve been photoshopped or manipulated to the point where we couldn’t take the same shot naturally. Oh well. We got really close, but didn’t quite complete the mission. Onto the next: operation find a t-shirt. We walk to the boutique hotel, which is wicked adorable, and ask for a shirt. They have plenty, and it turns out to be really cute! I’m almost tempted to buy one for myself, but we weren’t staying there, nor were we going to go to the rooftop bar, so I opted not to. I was simply satisfied with fulfilling my mission! Maybe there will be a girl’s trip there in the future? What do you say, Josie and Connie? 😁

On our way back to the apartment, we stop by the grocery store and get some goodies for dinner. We’re calling it early today. Start early, end early, haha. We take an Uber back to the apartment because we’re just not up to walking it again, and the Uber is a whopping $2. We get back, put the groceries away and take showers. Hayden made us some dinner, and we found Netflix on the tv, and put on the latest season of “You.” We didn’t know it then, but we were gonna binge it all, hehe. It was so nice to just relax and do nothing for a change. I think we all needed it after such a long and hot day walking around in the sun.

Until next time! 🤗😊.

Oh boy oh boy! Today we get to fly to a new country! And it’s new for all three of us, too! I am beyond excited to see this mystery country, as it’s been on my list for a while, but, this bed we have at the hotel in San Salvador is SUPER comfortable, I think it’s the best one we’ve had yet, so it’s hard to get out of bed. But, if you know me at all, I’m usually wicked excited to begin a new adventure….so all in all, it was pretty easy for me to get up, say goodbye to the luxiorious bed, and finish packing my bag.

Edgardo picked us up right at 4:30am, and he had a surprise for us. He found some different currencies, including some old Salvadoran colones and Cuban bills, among others. He gave these to Hayden because he knew how much Hayden enjoys collecting currencies. Awwww! And he gave me a small artisan purse, which his wife wanted to gift me, and inside, there was a small table cloth with a knit border and flowers, which his daughter had made for me! My heart immediately melted from this kind and thoughtful gesture. This is a prime example of the golden hearts of the people I’ve met and created friendships with here in El Salvador. And if you recall, Marcela wanted us to have something to remember her town by, and again, I’m reminded of the down-to-earth kindness so many of the people I met in El Salvador share. I’m so glad that Dana and Hayden not only got to experience one of my favorite countries, but were also welcomed with the same love as I was when I first arrived. 

We get to the airport, take one last group photo with Edgardo, zip right through security, and find ourselves a Priority Pass Lounge! This would mark my first time utilizing it! I got to bring Dana and Hayden in as my guests, and we had breakfast and coffee in a quiet lounge while waiting for our plane to board. It was so neat! Everything was for free, obviously, but it was so awesome to just help yourself to the mini-fridge of drinks, and to ask for more coffee. Dana and I were trying to get some work done, but I was getting distracted by all the amenities, including showers in the bathroom! Sweet! I’m looking forward to taking advantage of the lounge in my future travels. 🙂

Our first flight goes well, I got a window seat! I expected to get a drink and snack service, but I guess Avianca doesn’t do that. Lol. I am reminded to be grateful for my airline :). We have a stop in San José, Costa Rica….Any guesses where we’re headed yet? We have just about an hour, but we decide to try to and squeeze in a quick lounge visit before our flight. We rush up there and snag some pastries and a bathroom break, and fly back outta there, as our plane should be boarding by now. Well, we rushed for nothing. Haha. Oh well. I run over to the little store and grab us some waters, and an overpriced snack from the Britt Coffee Shop: chocolate covered guayba jam balls. They’re sooo good! And they come in a ton of different varieties, are all overpriced, and oh so worth it, lol. 

They start to make announcements for boarding, and we’re told we need to wear masks for the boarding process. Did we just hear that right? Did we overlook something and covid restrictions are in full effect there? Uh-oh. Dana saves the day though, by having some extra masks readily available, so I snag one, and we board the plane. Window seat again! Wooohoo! 

On the plane, I commit to going through some photos, and nearly catch up to current times, lol. It’s tough work! Traveling with Dana and Hayden allows me to see the insider’s perspective on this kind of lifestyle. To document everything is hard work! Taking the pictures, going through them and deleing unnecessary ones, editing some, putting together an album with descriptions, writing blog posts or emails, posting to instagram and maybe TikTok lol. Truly, a mound of homework awaits us at the end of each day, but it is always made better by some beer and friends :). That’s been the routine this whole trip…Go out for the day, and come home to the apartment and take care of business, whether that’s documentation, or research for next steps, or booking accommodations or flights. 

Soon we hear the announcement that we’re about to land! Ooooo! We’re getting so close! I can’t wait! Everything looks hazy, and it’s hard to make out the city, but it almost looks like Miami…lots of tall white condo or apartment buildings, I’m guessing. The pilot told us it was a warm 92 degrees….yikes! Haha So far you know we traveled south from El Salvador to San José, and we’re landing somewhere that maybe sort of looks like Miami Beach. Where are we? 🧐🤔😍

Today, we woke up and went straight to the breakfast that was included in our hotel. So good! Beans, eggs, plantains, cheese, and tamales. Oh, and of course, coffee! 

We had time after breakfast to get some “work” done and make some plans for our next steps. That time passed by quickly, and Edgardo arrived at the hotel, and off we went towards Suchitoto! But not before stopping at a gas station to get some coffee, water, and a Kolashanpan, the local soda of El Salvador. Hayden made the mistake of telling me he likes to try local beverages, so, being the good friend that I am , I couldn’t let him leave El Salvador without trying it! Lol. No surprise to me, nobody liked it. Hehe, Don’t say I didn’t warn you! 😅. However, we did decide it was better than the banana juice soda from Honduras. Sorry, Honduras! Hehe.

We continued on our way to Suchitoto and arrived in the town center while mass was going on, so the town square was nearly empty. It was nice to walk around without too much hustle and bustle. We find a little coffee shop and grab some drinks, and again, I make Hayden try a local drink, but this time it’s Horchata. It’s not his favorite, but that works out for us because Dana and I like it, and it becomes our post-coffee dessert. :). We enjoy some conversations about how Italians and Salvadorans talk a lot with their hands hehe. I don’t think I’ve ever learned so much from a short 15-minute conversation, lol.

As we were finishing our drinks, Edgardo asked about how to get to the waterfalls nearby, but the waitress told us there wasn’t any water since we were in the dry season. So we decide it’ll be better to skip the “water” falls and just go to the lookout to see Suchitoto Lake. Before we drive over there, we wanted to walk around the town just a bit. And we find a place to get chocobananos, and these ones were massive! It took us a while to eat them, but we enjoyed every minute of it. Once we had our fill and taken our pictures, we piled back into the car, and onwards we went to see the lake lookout. 

Something that struck us about the lake is how undeveloped it is in the sense of tourism. It’s absolutely beautiful, and it reminds us a bit of Lake Atitlan. However, besides the town itself and the waterfalls, there aren’t many attractions in the area. Part of me loves this, as it’s not overrun by tourists and feels more local, but if the local population could benefit from tourism, maybe it would be a good thing? Tough conversation, and maybe there is no great answer, but it’s something I think about a lot when I’m in El Salvador. I wish for nothing less than the very best for this beautiful country, which has left such a loving and lasting mark on my heart. I have so much love for this place, and I am forever grateful for all the experiences and adventures it’s offered me over the years, and of course, for all the wonderful people I’ve been blessed with meeting and befriending. ❤️

Next stop is Cihuatán Ruins, and I’ve never been there before! Hooray for a new place! It’s not a far drive from Suchitoto, and soon we’re pulling into the long dirt driveway of the archaeological site. We are required to have a guide in the park, and we’re all a bit nervous as to whether or not we need to pay for the guide or not. I ask her, and she says no, that the guide is included with the entry fee. We’re unsure if, at the end, there would be a moment where a tip would be expected, but we go ahead and rush through the site. It’s a rather large area, and there is a lot to learn, but we still had another two stops to make, so we didn’t want to get too carried away there. The big pyramid is front and center and is covered in a lot of grass. I’ve come to really appreciate these kinds of ruins, as it shows what happens over time to such magnificent structures. Sometimes, I imagine iconic buildings today being uncovered thousands of years in the future, such as the Eiffel Tower, and what that might look like after being abandoned and left ot nature for so long. 

This ancient city had 2 ball game courts, one of which was under construction when the city was abandoned. In the acropolis of the site, they found a female skeleton, next to the most famous artifact found in El Salvador, the dog with the wheels. This piece is so important because for a long time there was a belief that the Maya never invented the wheel, but in reality, the wheel was not as useful to them for carts or work implements, due to the landscape, but rather, the wheels were used for children’s toys. 

Our guide also told us they think this city was a city of just women. I’d like to know more about this, as it seems pretty rare. The name ‘Cihua’ means woman, or the feminine, in Nahuat. And ‘Tan’ means next to, and it just so happens there is a mountain nearby that has the shape of, and is called the sleeping woman. Here is born the belief that the nahuat name of the city comes from the proximity of the city to this mountain.

The larger ball game court has an annex that contains a room, a temple, and a temezcal, or a steam spa. An interesting arrangement that hasn’t been found in many other, if any, other sites. I’d really like to spend some time reading about this site, as it is quite large, and I’m extra curious about the all female city bit. As we rush through the site, trying to hide from the beating sun, we come across a group of people sitting in a circle. They’re students learning the ways of the ancient Maya and are training to become Mayan priests and priestesses. Sweet! They want to rescue the indigenous culture and promote it, and although they’ll never be true Maya ‘tatas’ or ‘nanas’ (wise Mayan elders), they will be contributing to the survival of the culture and the Mayan cosmovision. Just love this! 

On our way back towards San Salvador, we pull over on the side of the road to grab some fresh coconut water. I had been telling Edgardo that I used to love getting one on the way to or from the airport, and he knew we’d be leaving so early tomorrow, that the likelihood of finding a coconut vendor would be next to none. So, eagle-eye Edgardo spots a coconut stand, and we all get out and ask for 3 coconuts. Hacked open just a few feet from us with giant machetes, and the water expertly drained into a plastic bag by a woman directly in front of us, I ask myself, “if this isn’t living, then what is?” Hehe. There is nothing more refreshing than fresh coconut water. It’s so tasty and filled with so many electrolytes that after just a few sips, it’s as if my body has been completely recharged. Nature’s miracle! And not to mention the coconut meat, which is dense and nutrious, and fills you up with just a few bites. Back home, I’m sometimes swayed to try a coconut water for sale in a grocery store, but I’ve decided it’s never worth it. Nothing will ever come close to a fresh coconut. That’s something worth traveling for. 🙂

Our next stop is a quick jaunt through the Centro Historico of El Salvador. We hoped to make it into the El Rosario church to see the beautiful colors inside, but alas, it was closed. We figured being Sunday, it’d be open, but it wasn’t. Womp Womp. So we head over to the cathedral, which, according to google, is also closed. But, we’re in luck! We walk in, and I explain a bit about the iconic San Romero, and there near the altar of the church, on the right, were two giant paintings of him. How cool was it to San Romero there, watching over the congregation. 

After the center, we went up to Los Planes de Renders for a view of the city and the volcano, and well, one last pupusa dinner! Woohoo! Hehe. I loved the pupusas here, and we had a good time relaxing after another long, full day. The t-shirts the staff were wearing were epic, and I decided I needed one, lol. The front was simple, with just the name of hte place: Boomwalos, but the back of the shirt said “I ❤ pupusas,” with the heart being a pupusas split in half, to create the heart shape. So when we went to pay, I asked to check out a couple of sizes, and I snagged one. So happy! “A mi me gustan las pupusas….” 🙂 

Before heading back to the hotel, we wanted to stop by a supermarket, and Edgardo brought me to the one I used to walk to all the time from Fundahmer. It was such a blast from the past walking inside hehe. Our goal was to just grab a couple of Cadejos to sample and head back to the hotel to get some work done. We have an early morning tomorrow and a flight to a surprise country! Hehe. Any guesses where?🧐🤔🙃