Day 3

At breakfast, a couple from Australia, Vanesa and Darko, were kind enough to share a traditional Australian treat with Heather and I… Vegemite. 🤢 Have you ever tried it? It’s… shall we say, an acquired taste? I had the (mis)fortune of trying it while visiting some dear friends in New Zealand. I knew that it would be “interesting” when one of them had their phone out ready to film my experience. 😅

Well today, having learned from past experiences, I politely declined the generous offer, but I encouraged Heather to try. She seemed excited and dipped her pinky in a small gloop of the salty spread, and tasted just a tiny bit, and her face said it all: not exactly the deliciousness she was lead to believe it would be. 🤣 We all laughed and Vanesa and Darko explained how it’s given to children from an early age and people just get used to it. Before the fun was over, they managed to convince our guide to try it as well. 0 for 3; nobody enjoyed it. 😅 Maybe that just means we need to spend more time in Australia :). 

Before we arrived to the first stop, Hatem gave us all kinds of information on the bus. My favorite trivia fact is the unique Jordanian “drive-thru” coffee. There were men standing on the side of the road, waving a silver plates. They sell coffee, and you are able to order this coffee from your car as you’re approaching the coffee shop. Using only hand signals, you can ask for a specific number of coffees, ask for normal sugar, half sugar, even a teaspoon of sugar, or no sugar at all. After charading what you would like, the coffee seller will nod and confirm back to you before going to the roadside shop to prepare it. By the time you pull up and park your car, your coffee will be ready. Of all the amazing things we are learning in Jordan, this has to be one of my favorites. ☕️🤗

Our first stop would be Mt. Nebo, a pilgrimage site where Moses brought his people out of Egypt and first laid eyes on the Promised Land across the Jordan Valley. We were told that it would be windy up on the mountain, and that was probably the biggest understatement of the trip. 😅 We all felt like we’d nearly get picked up from the wind and be blown away to Israel. We could just barely make out the cities of Jericho and Jerusalem across the valley.

Three separate churches were built on top of one another at the summit of the mountain, the first being a monastery built by monks, the Byzantine church, and currently the Catholic Church, which has beautifully preserved the ancient mosaics.

We left Mt. Nebo and went to a mosaic workshop to learn how they make the works of art. One of the women gave an explanation of the process and we observed several artists in action, creating a variety of pieces. It looks like a painstaking process and I can’t imagine having the patience to finish one. Their work was incredibly beautiful, and a bit expensive. I was interested in a small garden table and it was 1,100JOD, or about $1,500. I’m sure it is worth it, but I just don’t have the budget for something like that. Although… I couldn’t help myself and instead bought a smaller wall hanging of the black iris, the national flower of Jordan, which symbolizes strength and resilience. 

After visiting the workshop, we drove a short way to the city of Madaba, made famous for its mosaics. The big point of interest here was a 6th century church with a mosaic map of the area. It showed all of the important pilgrimage sites such as Jerusalem, Bethlehem, the Jordan River, Jericho and more. While walking around Madaba, we tried fresh Medjool dates… my life is forever changed. I’ve enjoyed dates, but I had never had any this delicious. They were moist and flavorful where the dates I’ve had before are a bit drier and more chewy. 

Next up, Karak Castle! In the 12th century, the Crusaders had their eyes set on Jerusalem as their capital and wanted to create a stronghold nearby in order to exert their influence in the region. They attempted to enter the territory from the north, but were thwarted by Saladin. Discouraged, but not defeated, the Crusaders tried again, this time from the south, and successfully constructed the castle. Though, ultimately they were besigied and fell to Saladin, who became the first Sultan of Egypt and Syria. 

The rest of the afternoon was spent driving towards the one, the only, Petra! 😍 Before arriving to the city, we stopped by a building constructed around Moses Springs, where the city of Petra sourced their water. The Nabataean built an extensive network of clay pipes to bring water from this spring a distance of 5km into their city below in the canyon. These springs played an important role in the Bible as well; it was this precise location where Moses struck a rock and brought forth water to offer the Israelites.

The Nabataean people were a nomadic people originally from what is now Yemen. They moved to different places until they found the sandstone mountains located in the Edomite Kingdom. The Nabataeans wanted this area for themselves and began constructing Petra. They traded in spices and flourished until the Romans absorbed the city and added their own touch. 

Soon we arrived in Wadi Musa and before checking into the hotel, we had to rush a bit and purchase our “Petra By Night” tickets. Normally, people would do this the evening after visiting Petra all day. But the day we arrived was the last day they were doing the night experience before the weekend. So it was now or never. 

We got back to the hotel and had a lovely dinner prepared by the kitchen, a traditional Jordanian dish called Maqluba. Rice, veggies and chicken all cooked in one pot, and once it’s finished, the pot is flipped upside down onto the serving tray. One of our tour members, Barbara flipped the vegetarian one after watching the chef expertly perform the flip just one time. Excellent work, Barbara! 🥳

After dinner, it was time to gather our things for the “Petra by Night” experience. This was an additional option to walk through the candlelit canyon to the Treasury where we would enjoy a light show projected onto the giant tomb. As it dawned on me that this would be my very first impression of Petra, I was filled with a sense of awe and wonder, and I was confident that this would be a magical experience.

We showed our tickets and passed through the entrance, beginning our stroll through the canyon. I’m embarrassed to admit I thought Petra was only the Treasury, and I had no idea how long of a walk it was just to get there. The walk to the infamous building included several other points of interest illuminated by warm lights, and I began to imagine just how immense this place was. Soon we entered the narrow canyon, with only a sliver of sky above us. The candle-filled paper lanterns guided our way deeper and deeper into the glowing canyon. We meandered down the path, admiring the sparkling stars above us, and before we knew it, just around the corner, we got our first views of the incredible treasury. 

Wow. 

Just wow.

Honestly, I don’t think the light show was even necessary. To just sit in front of the iconic tomb lit by candles was enough. They passed out small cups of tea, and we watched a short presentation that projected different images onto the Treasury, explaining some of the history. I enjoyed it, but all I found myself wanting was more of the warm candle light, and to just soak in the beauty in silent reflection. Without a doubt, it was magical. ✨️✨️

Now it’s time to get some sleep and rest up before exploring the rest of Petra tomorrow. 😁

Day 4

With a quick breakfast, we were off to see Petra by day. On our way, Hatem pointed out a tall mountain with a white building on top. This was Aaron’s tomb, the brother of Moses. There is so much religious history in Jordan…

As we begin our walk towards the narrow canyon leading to the Treasury, Hatem explained some facts about the first few tombs we saw. Many of the tombs have a stepped design on top, a cultural trait the Nabataeans picked up while living and traversing through Syria. One tomb had obelisk like shapes on the top, an influence from Egypt. Walking down the road, there were some very obvious limestone cobbles making up the street, something the Romans added when they came through and took over. As we learned before, the city piped in its water from up the mountain and they even had a filtration system built in, giving the city access to clean water.

The Treasury tomb was built for the last Nabataean king and took 40 years to carve. They carved all of these impressive buildings from the top down. 

The site was filled with little shops selling everything from coffee and tea to magnets and jars filled with sand art. There were even a few children selling postcards, and they had a favorite phrase to use when denied: “You dropped something…” and we would look around confused as if we had actually dropped some of our belongings, and they would continue … “you dropped my heart.” It was so cute! But not cute enough to convince me to purchase anything. 😅

We did however, get pulled into a shop selling kohl, a natural eyeliner. The shop owner applied it for us and explained that once it was on it would last for 2 days and water wouldn’t make it run or come off. He claimed the tiny bottles he was selling would last 2 years. It it used to help protect the eyes from the sun and the desert sand. I was already interested in this and was especially excited to try it out. I bought some and have been practicing this whole trip on applying it properly, although I think I need a couple of YouTube videos and several more attempts before I feel truly comfortable with it. 

By the time we made it to the end of the main road, it was time for lunch and to part ways and explore on our own. Several of us decided to climb the 948 stairs to the Monastery: another very large and impressive tomb set back from all the others.

Along the way there were again many shops built right into the trail selling all kinds of goods and wares. Some people were offering “taxi” rides on mules, but these poor animals looked so overworked and too small to be carrying people up the uneven and sometimes slippery sandstone steps. 😔

We make it to the top and are rewarded with the majestic monastery. We do a celebratory photo shoot, trying to get the perfect jump shot in front of the megalith. After about 1,000 pictures, we decide we must have a least one good one, and continue exploring the area. 

On our way up the trail, we had run into Barbara, and she told us about a great lookout spot that was free and offered a birds-eye view of the monastery. We decide to head up that way and climb even more stairs. The higher we got, we began to notice just how windy it was up there. Time to take off the hat, lest the wind do it for me. 😅

We reach the top and enter the shelter, expecting to be asked for an entry fee of some kind, but much to our surprise, we were not. There was a gentleman inside selling beverages and snacks, should we want something, but he did not ask anything of us. We commented on how nice that is, to not be pestered, and it inspires me to give from the heart. He invited us to come in and enjoy the view. It was such a lovely shaded respite after hiking up in the sun. I decided to order a coffee to support the shopowner, and we enjoyed an extended break up there before bracing ourselves for the walk down. 

Back near the main road, we followed another trail towards the Royal Tombs. Along the way, we got a fabulous view of the Qasr Al-Bint and the Great Temple, in addition to a Byzantine church with more incredible mosaics. By this point, we are already exhausted, but we march on, determined to see everything we possibly can. 

We approach the Royal Tombs and explore inside several of them, in awe of the colors of sandstone. We marvel at the grandness of the entire site of Petra and slowly begin walking back towards the visitors center. 

Since nearly the first day of the trip, I had my eye on a beautiful Jordanian dress, and the time had come to do some shopping. I already saw the one I wanted and it was also the same shop Hatem told us was a good one to make purchases from. Perfect! Heather and I walk in and begin looking at different dresses and scarfs. I tried on the dress and I knew immediately I wanted to buy it. I just had to reconcile the price and be okay with spending a small chunk of money. 

The shop owner pulled out a scarf to match the dress and put it on me, completing the look. And he also helped Heather do the same, showing us how to properly put on the scarf in two different ways. 

Heather and I both walked out of the shop with some goodies and headed back to the hotel. She haggled so perfectly with a taxi driver in Arabic, and the rest of the taxi drivers and myself included, were so impressed! Nice work, Heather! “Hamsa! Hamsa!”

Back at the hotel, we do a quick refresh and head downstairs to meet the rest of the group for our briefing. Hatem is doing an excellent job keeping us updated about what we need to know for the following day, but tonight, I think the group is feeling the sleep deprivation and exhaustion of the trip. We are getting a bit slaphappy and silly and can barely contain our laughs. Although it made for a longer meeting, we got through it and soon it was time for dinner. 

We ate a restaurant in downtown Wadi Musa and I tried the kofta sesmi, a lamb and potato dish with a tahini/sesame sauce. It was so delicious! All the food we’ve had has been incredible and and I can’t wait to see what else is in store for us. 

After dinner, our waiter put on some music and began dancing, getting Barbara up and teaching her a few moves. The waiter was VERY good at shaking his booty, and he had all of us laughing and clapping along while he was encouraging all of us to get up and dance with him. A few of us did, and we danced the night away. Well, until we tired out about 15 minutes later and cashed out. 🤣 Some of us wanted to check out the cave bar before going to bed, and it had already been a long day, otherwise, we may have kept dancing well into the night. 

The cave bar was so beautiful! Exactly as it sounds, a bar built into a sandstone cave. Several of us sat around a circle and enjoyed a very expensive beverage in the ambiance before heading back to the hotel for some much needed sleep. Hatem told us that in the busy season, there is barely room to even stand inside. I’m so glad we’re here in winter. 🤗

Day 5

This morning our first stop would be Little Petra, about a 15-20 minute drive from Wadi Musa. This place was used as a guesthouse and meeting place when the Nabataeans would manage trade deals or visitors from outside.

This site had a place for visitors to tie up their camels, as the entrance was an extremely narrow canyon, and no camel would fit inside. I’m sure this was a form of security as well. You could pass maybe 2 across through the short and narrow entrance, and if anyone attempted an attack, the Nabataeans could easily pick off the aggressors. 

Inside the site were several huge water tanks for storing fresh water and meeting rooms carved out of the rock. Inside one of the carvings was a beautiful fresco painted on the ceiling much later in time. I can only imagine what it looked like when it was new. 

The next stop would be the infamous Wadi Rum Desert. On the drive, Hatem filled us in on so many details and facts. Something many of us were excited to see were the film locations for Star Wars, the Martian, and Aladdin. There were also two films being filmed inside the desert in 2024, but Hatem didn’t know which ones… guess we’ll have to keep our eye out! 

Surprisingly, the desert actually contains the largest source of water in Jordan. Being a very dry land, the water is precious and is actually piped all the way up from the desert to Amman, making it the largest supplier of water to the capital. 

The people living in the desert are the Bedouin, a nomadic people who live in different camps spread out across the dry red tundra. Camels are very important to the Bedouin and are invested in like some people might invest in gold. 

As we got closer to the desert, we stopped by the only train station in Jordan. There once was a larger rail network, but it was destroyed during the Arab Revolt against the Ottomans. However, a small section still operates, running supplies between Wadi Rum and Aqaba. The train is from the 1900s and looks like it. It almost reminded me of the toy trains some people put out at Christmas time. 

We soon reach a stopping point where our trusty bus will leave us and we will get into the back of 3 pickup trucks to drive into the desert. Here we go! Driving straight into the desert, there was a sandy haze that gave the effect of layered mountains. The closest were dark and clear to see, where the ones farther away gradually appeared lighter and lighter until they disappeared entirely into the hazy horizon. 

We arrrived to our camp and brought our things inside. I was expecting to be set up in cloth tent accommodations, but it was definitely more like a lodge or hotel room. Slightly disappointing after imagining what kind of magical Harry Potter glamping tent we might end up in, but it was beautiful nonetheless, and very comfortable. 

After we ate an amazing lunch prepared by the community, we got back onto the pickup trucks to begin a desert tour. Our first stop was a tent that was selling various goods and we were invited in for some tea. Hatem explained a bit about the different products the Bedouin make and gave us a chance to purchase some. Outside the shop there was a really fascinating mosque. It was a small area designated by a very small rock wall and it was pointed in the direction of Mecca. Another amazing thing to see was the cliff inscription written by the Nabataean people. It included images of camels headed in the direction of the trade route, and written words in Aramaic.

Next up were some of the movie set locations, including Aladdin, Star Wars, and the Martian. We then moved on to a neat area where we all shouted and heard the echo come back to us. I’ve never quite heard something like that before. Nearly 16 people all shouting the same thing created quite the effect when it echoed back to us.

At our echo stop, we sampled a Bedouin blush, which is crushed sandstone. Very orangey, but once rubbed in and properly blended, it looked nice! Hatem applied it to almost all of our cheeks, but a couple people slowly worked there way to the back of the crowd… I see you, Darko!

Our next stop was a special sunset spot. When we arrived, Barbara and I changed into our fancy Jordanian dresses and had a small photo shoot. As the sun was setting, three camels were crossing down below and were lining up perfectly with the golden rays of the setting sun. What a beautiful way to end the day. 🤗

Back at the camp, we had a brief moment to sit around the campfire before experiencing a national dish called Zarb. This food is cooked on a three tiered platter, with rice, meat, and vegetables making up the individual tiers. It is then placed inside a sand oven, buried a few feet deep in the sand, and cooked for four hours. 

We were invited to watch the men pull this savory meal from the sandy earth, and as soon as it was exposed the smell began to permeate the air. This was going to be delicious. Even though we were pretty much in the middle of nowhere, the meals provided in the camp were extensive. Bowls and bowls of fresh salads, and of course tonight, heaping portions of rice, lamb, chicken, and veggies. 

After dinner many of us went on a stargazing adventure. Now, let me preface this story with a description of what we thought we were getting. We all imagined taking the trucks out into a spot deep in the desert where there was no light pollution. And here, the guides would set up a few telescopes, and we could lay down in the sand and admire the stars above, or we could use the telescopes for a closer view. 

Well, our pickups begin drivings towards the light pollution, and we’re all left a bit curious as to what we’ve paid for, and surely we’ll pass through the town and back into the desert, right? 

On Heather’s truck, they began joking that maybe we are headed to a planetarium to watch a movie about the stars. 😅 When we arrive to the spot, we go into a building and are handed a thick card that looks like a hotel key, and are told to go next door and give this to the guy. Confused, we do as we’re told, and we walk into a room set up with chairs and…

…a projector showing an image of the stars on the wall. 🤣 We all begin cracking up… barely able to contain our giggles, so much so that many of start to get watery eyes. This can’t possibly be all there is to the evening, but we’re all a bit worried and having a good laugh anyways. We’re here, and it will be what it will be. As we’re trying to control ourselves, we find out that Barbara has a water bottle filled with wine and travel sized squirt bottles with filled with tequila. Well, if we are only going to watch a movie, then we should have a good time anyways with Barbara’s goods. 🍸🍷 This makes us giggle even more, and I’m sure everyone else in the room was wishing we’d just be quiet. 😅

Soon a gentleman walks in and begins by asking “I’m sure you’re wondering…” And Barbara replies quite loudly, “Yes!” Which makes us all giggle some more… it’s uncontrollable at this point. I’m starting to feel a bit bad for everyone that has to listen to us 🤣. The gentleman then explains that yes, we will be watching a short animation, but then we will be headed outside.

The animation was actually quite lovely and I think pulled us all back to our senses. It began with an image of a woman laying on the grass, and started to zoom out. Each zoomed out frame included the distance in feet, meters, kilometers, all the way to light years. It gave an excellent perspective of just how enormous the universe is. It certainly made me appreciate the ability to see things through the telescope. Once the animation finished zooming out, it zoomed in, all the way to the tiniest known parts of the human body. I’m not sure if I feel more insignificant after watching the short film, knowing the Earth is a tiny pinprick within the university, or if I feel overwhelmed with gratitude for being conscious and alive, created from so many tiny pieces that allow me to experience this wide and wonderful world. 

After the video, we head just outside to an area that has barriers set up around it. This is where the telescopes are located.  I thought we would be getting in vehicles and going further into the desert. There was clear and obvious light pollution from all around. How could we possibly see much? 

The four telescopes were set to view the Orion Nebula, Sirius, a star cluster, and the big whammy, Jupiter! The storms on Jupiter were clearly visible as two stripes that went across the entire planet, and this was by far, my favorite thing look at. The Orion Nebula was second, as it was possible to see the hazy blue hydrogen cloud surrounding it. 

Once everyone had their fill of looking through the telescopes, our guide showed us how to find the North Star and a variety of constellations, including Leo! I hope I can remember how to find it:). 

About an hour passes, and we head back to our pickup trucks and back to our camp. We were hoping to have time to sit around the camp fire and enjoy the even darker night sky here, but we got back nearly at 11pm and I for one, wanted to get some rest before the next day. So long, Wadi Rum! 🥹

Monday:

Our Airbnb was more like a hotel/guest-house, and our stay included breakfast! The dining room was in a separate building, so with bleary eyes and hungry bellies, we got dressed and walked across the courtyard, anxious for that first sip of coffee. They had a short but diverse menu with the traditional Irish breakfast, smoked salmon, and of course, pancakes. Jaimee and I sneakily brought out the little nun-made Irish cream and sampled the deliciousness for the first time. Yum! What a fun way to start the day. 

Next up was a trip to one of the Aran Islands, Inis Oírr. The boat ride was not for the faint of heart. Now, I KNOW it wasn’t comparable to the Drake crossing en route to Antarctica, but I’m quite certain it was the closest I’ve ever experienced to something that intense. Water was crashing up over the sides and windows of the boat, and the staff were “walking” (more like struggling to stand upright) around passing out small bags for those getting sick or feeling like they might. I have to say, even though I consider myself to have a strong stomach, this ride was testing the iron clad reputation of my guts. 😅

When we arrived, we opted to rent bikes to ride around the island, and after a false start, one flat tire, and a new rental, we set out on our way. Our first stop was the Plassey Shipwreck. This huge freighter ship washed ashore back in 1960, and has sat guard over the coast ever since. We walked right up to it, some people venturing inside where the hull had corroded away. We spent some quality time here, enjoying the wind on our faces and the fresh air, trying to settle our stomachs before moving on to the next spot. 

We rode back the way we came and ventured up a pretty steep hill in search of an old fort. It was pretty cool! It looked ancient, and the views from the hill were amazing! The color of the water was almost a tropical turquoise with the sun peeking through the clouds; definitely not something I’d expected. After taking in our surroundings and posing for a mandatory selfie, we head out in search of the ruins of a 10th century church. I was really excited to find this one, but the map we had wasn’t great, and there weren’t any signs to help us. We meandered through the “downtown” and up a windy and hedge lined road, catching views of cows, fields, and the ocean below. Jaimee stopped and asked a local man for directions and confessed she couldn’t understand a word he was saying 🤣. Thank you for trying, friend! So we kept going, hoping we were on the right track. There were only so many roads on this little island, how far off could we be? After a few more minutes, we decided to call it a loss, and head back towards town, as our departure time was nearing. We had a little more time, and rode along the coast which provided spectacular views and eased the loss of not finding the church. 

As I’m writing this blog, I have looked up another map of the island, and I think we were sooo close to the old church when on our way to the shipwreck. I’m bummed to have missed it, but I suppose it just wasn’t meant to be this time around. I’ll leave that for my next trip out there:). 

The ferry ride back to the mainland was much smoother than on the way there, and it was almost relaxing to feel the ebb and flow of the ocean as we sped through the waves. It was a rare moment, quiet and contemplative, in an otherwise very busy itinerary. 

Once back on the mainland, we returned to our Airbnb to relax and refresh…

…But not for long; our day was just getting going. Up next up: the cliff walk trail to the Cliffs of Moher! It’s walkable from Doolin, with the right mentality and stamina. I was at first, slightly bummed, because I wanted to be sure to see the cliffs, but also really intrigued by making the long trek there. It was a risk: would we make it that far? Or would we turn around before reaching our end goal? 

We begin our journey up a steep paved road to the trail head, and I’m almost immediately tired. I picked the wrong shoes for sure; I went with ankle booties that were waterproof and had more traction than my sneakers, which were my only other option. Spoiler alert, by the end of the day, my feet were KILLING me. Is anyone surprised? 😂

Anyways, this walk was AMAZING. And easily one of my top experiences in Ireland. We walked right alongside the cliff, listening to the crashing waves hit the steep terrain, occasionally being sprayed by the ocean mist. We came upon some spectacular views, and soon I was okay with the possibility of not actually making it all the way to the Cliffs of Moher. It was so lovely to be outside, enjoying the serene nature of Ireland. We had planned to do some hiking earlier in the trip, but we were rained out. So now, getting to experience some of the elements, walking next to a dear friend, in a place as mystical and magical as Ireland, well, this was shaping up to be quite the afternoon. 🙂

Eventually we make it to what looks like the end of the trail, nowhere near the Cliffs of Moher, as far as we can tell. We’re a bit stumped, as it looks like the trail continues on, but it is completely blocked off. Plenty of signs say no trespassing, and no walking on the road. What to do? Me, the rule-follower, was prepared to turn around, disappointed after having made it so far. Jaimee, with her “let’s-do-what-we-came-here-to-do-attitude,’ is ready to jump the fence. As we are debating and contemplating our next move, a cop shows up and asks if we need help. I guess we looked pretty confused, haha. And to my bewilderment, he told us to hop the fence! We had just seen someone do it… the cop explained the trail down to a point was totally fine, but there was a section that was not good at all and should be avoided further up. 

With the approval of the local law enforcement, on we went! Successfully hopping the fence, we followed the trail down, and as we were arriving at the viewpoint, the person who had gone before us was already on his way back. Meaning, we would have this place to ourselves. And HOLY COW! What a true blessing this was. WHAT A VIEW! It was absolutely one of the most magical places I’ve ever been. Dramatically tall cliffs, the wild ocean stretching as far as the eye can see, a truly rugged landscape that makes you feel lucky to be alive, to bear witness to such an awe-inspiring place. Needless to say, we spent a long time here, soaking in the vibes and enjoying the breathtaking views. I felt so lucky sharing this special place with Jaimee. We always find ourselves where we need to be, and traveling with her is such a gift that I cherish with every ounce of my being. I already can’t wait to see what’s next for us. 🙂

We eventually pull ourselves away and begin trekking back towards Doolin. It wasn’t easy to say goodbye to that place, but it will forever live in our hearts and memories. 

There was a particular part of the trail that had an extreme water spray situation. One we successful navigated on the way out, and now had looming over our heads on our way back. It was such a silly thing, and quite honestly, as fun as splashing in a puddle as a kid. As goofy as it was, it will also be a memory not easily forgotten from this day. There was no way around it, except for through it. And although we got pretty soaked, we dried off eventually. There’s a life lesson in there somewhere: sometimes you have to go through it, and while you might not feel great at first, eventually you will be okay.

The sun had been peaking out here and there the whole trail, but on our way back, she came out in earnest. All of a sudden, we were strolling in the golden glow of the setting sun, which made the water glisten and sparkle. And would it be a day in Ireland if we didn’t see a rainbow? Not on our trip, hehe. Number 8 for the win! 🌈🌈🌈

We had dinner at a pub back in Doolin, and it was SO good. Our appetite was HUGE after the day we had. We were extremely hungry and let’s just say, a cold pint of Guinness is a great way to replenish electrolytes. We’ll sleep good tonight…

Tuesday:

Today we begin a long road trip towards the Ring of Kerry, in the southwest of Ireland. Boasting dramatic views and plenty of places to stop and check out various viewpoints, it was shaping up to be another very long, but fulfilling day. 

We happened to pass through a town called Adare, and it was so stinking cute! It wasn’t on any of our lists, but we are sure glad we didn’t miss it. It was so cute that we decided to park and walk around for a bit. We walked through a picturesque park with gorgeous flowers, including purple roses covered in shimmering rain drops. The town had a beautiful stone church and just across the street, some traditional thatched buildings. 

We stopped in a coffee shop for a caffeine hit, and they had Salvadoran coffee beans! I couldn’t believe it! That is so rare to come across, and I instantly felt so grateful and excited to try the coffee. Delicious, of course, and so with our beverages, we wandered through a tourist market, where there were much needed bathrooms. We quickly realized this was used for all the giant tour buses, and we decided to head out quickly to avoid the crowds. 

With one last stop for snacks at a grocery store, we got back to the car and continued on our way. 

Next up, we made our way to Ross Castle, which we had apparently arrived about 5 minutes too late for the tour. Bummer! The next one was too far out, and we had to be at our Airbnb by a certain time. We did get to walk the grounds, and check out the one room museum they had off the main entrance. Here, Jaimee spotted something that made our journey well worth it, tour or not. It was a little model of the castle with figurines and buildings. Not much to note, but upon further inspection, there was a scene depicting the construction of the castle. There was a pulley system being used to hoist up large stones… and well, one poor soul was trapped beneath a fallen stone, complete with a pained expression on his face and even blood. I imagine the artist behind the model and I wonder how much they giggled, adding in a little secret. I bet not everyone notices… I certainly didn’t, not until Jaimee pointed it out. You never know what you’ll find! Before leaving, we had a peppermint tea outside, under a roofed lounge area, as the rain gently fell from the sky. Another simple, yet surreal moment, sitting in the shadows of a great castle. 

We continued on our way towards Muckross Abbey, something I found on Google maps that looked absolutely gorgeous. Google maps took us to a parking lot, and it looked to be just across the street. As we headed over, we were ambushed by a man trying to convince us to ride with him in his horse drawn carriage. Google said it was a 5 minute walk, but this guy was telling us it was 3 miles away! Huh? No way, we’re good, and we can walk. So we start down the path, and I don’t see it anywhere. I’m checking the phone, and it does all of sudden, seem a lot farther than we initially thought. I was so confused because I read reviews and looked at the map, it looks like it’s literally just off the main road! Grrrrr. 

Back to the car we go, and I look at Google maps again, out of the judging eyes of the horse guy… 😅 And behold! It looks like there may be a second entrance! Just a ways further up the main road. So we decided to check it out… it was on the way, after all. We arrive, and this parking lot is teeny tiny, and there are several horse drawn carriage guys. We definitely have no interest in paying them to take us slower and for much more money than our own two legs. We graciously deny their advances, and start walking towards the Abbey ruins. 

Peeking out between the lush green foliage, we begin to see the beautiful stone building. It’s always difficult to pick a favorite part from a trip like this, but exploring these abandoned ruins makes it into at least the top 3 for me. Maybe it was the forest it was situated in, so lush and green. Or the gentle rain falling down, casting a mysterious and ethereal glimmer over the stone walls, or maybe it was envisioning what this place must have looked like in its heyday. We had free reign to walk almost every inch of this place, including the upper levels, and the biggest showstopper the Abbey had to offer: a gorgeous columned patio, with an amazingly large tree right at the center. It grew straight up through the top of the building. This was what drew me here once I saw pictures online. And yes, Jaimee and I had our tree-hugging moment, to be grounded in nature and to be connected to a special place. 

The rest of our day was spent driving the Ring of Kerry to our Airbnb. It was particularly rainy and cloudy, not offering us too many views. We were certain there would be fantastic and breathtaking stops along the drive, and we were lucky to catch glimpses here and there, but mostly we saw clouds and rain.

We arrive at our Airbnb and quickly go to town to grab some dinner, lest we wait too long and the kitchens close. We were seated directly in front of some older women celebrating a birthday with a particularly spicy candle that was more like a sparkler that would burn out on its own. The birthday girl tried to blow it out and ended up blowing the sparks straight at her sister across the table🤣. Jaimee and I joined in singing happy birthday, and she actually stayed and chatted with us for a bit before leaving for the night. What a way to be seen and included in the local life. You just never know what’s store….

Wednesday:

Early to rise! Time for breakfast and as early a start as we can muster to see alll the things. 

First up, the Kerry Cliffs! Much like the Cliffs of Moher, but, you know, different. Some may say they are less dramatic, but Jaimee and I both loved them! To start, we actually had some sunshine! The most we had the entire trip, and having entered town in the fog and rain, everything seemed new and exciting with the sun shining down. 

From the top of these cliffs, you could see the Skellig Islands, which we would have loved to visit, but there really never is enough time to do everything. It was still really neat to see them off in the distance. And the WIND. Omg, the wind was insane! They had signs warning that if it was strong enough, to not go any higher. And I can easily see why. I felt like it could nearly blow me right over the cliff ledge. Thankfully, there was a fence. We spent a long time up on these cliffs, enjoying the newfound sun, the wind, the birds, the color of the water, the islands, and each other. How often do you get to just be? To just take it all in? This is one of my favorite gifts of traveling… when your only plan is to see new things, and looking out at a new landscape is enough. To not think about your to-do list or worry about things back home, your only responsibility is to enjoy the moment. When was the last time you did that? 

After the cliffs, we decided to go to Valentia Island. There were a few points of interest here, one of which being Tetrapod fossils! Cooool! But before we got to those, we made our way to the tallest point on the island, Geokaun Mountain. While on the way, we saw a sign for handmade candles… so we followed it! Down the tiniest road, clearly only wide enough for one vehicle, and it looked like it went on and on to nowhere. Until, we rounded a corner and saw a small building with a little handmade sign. We walked inside and the views from the little store room were incredible, and the candles were lovely. After enjoying the various scents and views, we got back in the car and continued our way, up and up and up. 

After paying an entry fee for the mountain, we drove up to the first viewpoint. A short cliff walk that was certainly beautiful, but after both the Cliffs of Moher and the Kerry Cliffs, these seemed to be small and while beautiful, not as impressive as the others. 

We continue up the road and parked the car, and walked around the top. We trudged through the wet grass to reach the tallest point, where a big phone tower was situated. It was a slightly better 360 view, but we walked back down to the main area and found a seat a on the wall of a picnic area.  As we did, a group of young guys popped down next to us with beverages, and Jaimee and I just took one look at each other, and she ran to the car to get our beers. We had to drink them sooner or later, as we’re flying out the next day! But guess who didn’t have a bottle opener? Us. Rookie mistake, lol. But the guys lent us theirs, and we all shared a brewski while admiring a glorious view of the island and town below. I just love unexpected moments like these. You could never predict them or force them to happen, but when they do, they mark your soul in a special way.

We came back down the mountain and began our journey back towards our last Airbnb of the trip. Along the way we stopped by a couple of ring forts from medieval times. They look just like they sound: a giant stone circle. One had different rooms on the inside, and even a storage space built into the wall. Or that’s what I believe it to be :). It was pretty epic, exploring these forts and climbing on top of their tallest walls and looking out towards the rolling green hills. 

We continue our drive, and of course, see a rainbow! We were passing a gorgeous lake and were planning to pull over anyway, to take a break and enjoy the scenery. As we were getting out of the car, we noticed the sneaky rainbow playing peek-a-boo with the clouds. Apparently, this stop was meant to be! 

Back in the car we go, and our journey brought us through rain showers, and more rainbows! Honestly, Hawaii boasts about being the Rainbow State, and that may be true within the US territory, but Hawaii doesn’t hold a candle to Ireland’s rainbows. Not by a long shot. 

As we approach our Airbnb, we look around for a dinner spot, but ultimately decide we want a chill dinner before our travel day. We were simply exhausted by this point, so off to the grocery store we went. We supply up with all sorts of random findings, complete with a pack or two of unique Oreos and brown bread :D. 

Back at the Airbnb, we ask our host for some supplies and we create a potluck style dinner with French bread, butter, meat, and our favorite, oxtail soup. It was so peaceful, and we celebrated another beautiful journey together while drinking our last two beers. 

With full bellies, weary souls, and happy hearts, we showered and got ready for bed. Time for this journey to come to an end. Tomorrow we head home, but not without memories that will last us a life time. Here’s to the next grand adventure! 

Time for a new adventure! One of my travel besties, Jaimee, suggested we go on a trip late July, and we took off on August 27th for Shannon, Ireland! We threw around several ideas, but we let the world and the vibes guide our decision making process, and Ireland just felt like the right choice. I have to thank Jaimee for doing nearly all the planning, as leading up to the trip, I was sick and doing my best to rest and recover so I’d be in tip-top shape for the adventure :). Thank you!

August 27th: Travel Day 

This trip started with a sniffly nose and a rough cough, having just gotten over a cold/flu the previous weekend. Determined to have a great time, I packed my bag with a mini pharmacy and began my journey to Shannon, Ireland. I thankfully made the flight from Boston to JFK, which was looking worse and worse the closer it got. I was already identifying alternative routing through LGA, which is far from ideal. If that were the case, I’d have to get myself over to JFK. Oh the joys of “non-rev” travel, hehe. 

I landed in JFK around 3pm, but my bag had to be checked, so I ran down to the baggage claim to retrieve my carryon, and back up through security. It was fairly busy and seemed to take forever to get through. But, by that time, Jaimee had landed and was walking towards the central atrium of Terminal 4. We were on the phone trying to figure out where we both were when all of a sudden, I spotted her walking straight towards me! I was so excited to see her beautiful face after nearly 3 years! Our last trip together was our incredible week in Egypt back in 2022. 

Well, our flight to Shannon didn’t leave until almost midnight, so we had some serious time to kill. We had no problem chatting and catching up on life, love, travel, and everything in between. Soon it was within the window to get into the lounge… I found a Chase Sapphire Lounge and haven’t been in one yet, and couldn’t wait to experience it! I’ve heard excellent things about the one in the Boston airport, so I was eager to get in. And it was worth the wait and certainly didn’t disappoint! Jaimee and I both had a lovely shower before the red-eye, we had some food and drinks, and enjoyed the calm, relaxed environment of the lounge. 

After a refreshing stay in the lounge, it was time to walk what felt like a mile to our departure gate. We settled into our seats and hoped we’d sleep on the 6 hour flight so we could hit the ground running upon arrival. 

Friday: Arrival Day

We landed early, and as we were on our way to customs, we were greeted by a rainbow! What a special way to begin our trip! I joked/suggested, “What if we see a rainbow every day here?” Stay tuned to see if we did:). The Shannon airport is tiny, so we got through customs and into the arrivals hall quite quickly. We got our rental car sorted, and as we waited for it to be brought around, we snagged a much needed coffee to shake off the jet lag. 

Our first stop would be Galway! I was excited to see this city, having heard it mentioned in many songs, and I just had a feeling I would love it. My first city in Ireland outside of Dublin! As we roll into town, I quickly realized how very not city-like it is, hehe. It’s so tiny! For some reason, I had a vision in my head of a larger and livelier city, but Galway is small, quaint, beautiful, and quiet. We drove straight through town to find free parking alongside the promenade. Thanks Jaimee for doing that bit of research! 

We parked, hopped out of the car and a begin a slow walk towards town. The views were insanely beautiful, and the color of the water was stunning! There were many hues of deep sea blue complemented by lighter, greenish-aqua colors. The salty, briny breeze encompassed us as we tried to take in everything we were seeing. 

We finally make it to town and walk up the busy and very touristy main street, complete with picturesque buildings and celebratory flags hanging above the pedestrian-only street. Hunting for a place to have lunch, we strolled past several pubs and restaurants, but decided we wanted something quick and light, planning on a dinner in just a few hours. We stopped by the Dough Brothers, a well known pizza joint in Galway. Not exactly a traditional Irish meal, but it was delicious! And hit the spot. A light snack to keep us going until dinner. Oh, and of course, we had to have some Murphy’s ice cream! 

We took our ice cream and sat besides a raging river that led straight into the ocean. So many people were out, sitting on the edge of the stone wall or on the grass, simply enjoying the outdoor space and the sun that was peeping through the clouds. What a gift to be still and simply enjoy our surroundings, taking it all in. So different than being at home in our busy routines where it’s easy to rush through a moment like this. 

After our short tour of Galway, we head back to the car and drive almost another 45 minutes to our B&B for the next two nights. The house was located down a small side-street that had ocean access! We were so close to the water! And looking out of our bedroom windows, we saw cows in VERY green pastures. Certainly a lovely place to spend a couple of days. 

Agianst our better judgement, we decided to lay down for a “quick” nap. Well, before we knew it, it was nearly 8:00pm, but with the sun setting officially at 8:30, we decided on a much required walk to the water’s edge. 

Finally ready for a late dinner, we head to the closest pub, and head inside. Unfortunately, we are told that they stop serving food at 8:30pm, and we’ve just missed it. Oh no. Haha. I suppose it’ll be liquid dinner for us… some Irish stout! A singer and guitarist were setting up for live music, so we grabbed some beer and sat down. The beer staved off the hunger, just slightly, but we were craving the snacks we had bought at the grocery store earlier. 

Back at the B&B, we busted open the instant oxtail soup, essentially a broth, and I found some brioche buns in the “for everyone” section of the cabinet. Holy moly was the broth delicious!  Not exactly the dinner we had hoped for, but it got the job done. We had some tea and a shower and off to bed we went. The real journey begins tomorrow!

Saturday: Day 1

Goodmoring, Ireland! We slept in a bit, as it felt all too natural with the rain and gray outside our windows. We had coffee and tea at the B&B as step one of what would be a very long day. Next stop was a breakfast spot called Pota, where we were sheltered from the rain as we enjoyed our food and a second coffee, of course. And now, officially and fully fueled, we began our day of sight-seeing. 

Jaimee had planned on us driving the Sky Road, but as we got closer, the rain got heavier. We ultimately decided to skip it, at least for now, and instead head to something we could do indoors: The Kylemore Abbey. Originally built in the late 1800s as a private residence with all the modern amenities. The man behind the project was Mitchell Henry MP, who was a wealthy landowner and one with pride in Ireland. His goal in constructing Kylemore was to show what could be achieved in the remote lands of western Ireland. It’s currently owned and run by the Benedictine community. 

We parked the car and started walking towards the entrance when we were blessed with a gorgeous view of the mansion from across the water. On a clear, calm day, the reflection of the house glimmers on the water’s surface. Too bad we had drizzle all day. Or was it to our advantage? The mountain behind the house had several visible waterfalls due to the rains we had been getting all morning. It was a gorgeous sight to take in. 

After getting a pre-soak from the rain on the way to the entrance, we go inside the house for a self-guided tour. The exhibits were really neat; there were video screens behind mirrors and talking portraits. It reminded me of something straight out of Harry Potter! And there was a beautiful, very feminine, pink sitting parlour, and all I could think about was my Nana’s “princess room,” where the grandkids got to sleep, and it was decorated with pinks, frills, unicorns, whatever a princess may want, it was there. This parlour was perhaps the adult version? Not a princess room, but a room fit for a queen?

As we finished up inside the house, we decided to walk to the miniature gothic church that mimicked its much larger inspirations. Walking up to it was like walking up to an enormous cathedral, but it was as if it were a scale model. And rather than gargoyles, this church was decorated with angels. Inside, there were marble columns with the marble being sourced from all over Ireland: green (Connemara), black (Kilkenny), red (Cork), and white (Tyrone). 

Further along down the road was a gigantic rock in the shape of an iron. Legend has it one of the local Gods threw it at another God and that’s where it landed. It is now a wishing rock. You need to pick up a small stone, and while thinking of your wish, lean your back against the rock, and toss the stone over the tip of the rock. If your stone goes over the top, your wish will come true. Jaimee and I both tried, but only one of us was successful. I’ll give you a hint; it wasn’t me, haha. 

On our way back, we considered taking a shuttle to the walled Victorian gardens, but we didn’t have a lot of time to spare, and it was raining again, surprise surprise. We opted to walk around the gift shop and to grab a quick snack for lunch in the cafe. The food was incredible! We had a sweet potato soup with coriander and an apple and strawberry crumble with warm custard on top. And we also snuck away with a small bottle of Irish cream the nuns make on site. We enjoyed a taste of that a few mornings on our trip. 

Next up was a sheep farm to see a demonstration of how sheep dogs work. It was truly amazing to watch Rex, the dog, herd all the sheep. His owner gave him commands, speaking in a normal voice, and the dog was so far away, it was hard to believe Rex could hear him. And it was raining fairly heavily. I definitely got soaked, and wished I had my rain pants with me. We were told that Rex wasn’t even half of his full speed; I cannot imagine how fast he could be in clear, dry weather! 

After the demonstration,  we drove further up the main road towards Westport, stopping by a waterfall on the side of the road. It was lovely! Always worth a stop! Westport turned out to be a wicked cute town… and, while we were parking the car, we saw a rainbow! We walked around town for a bit, and ended up grabbing a pint at a little pub, attempting to warm up and dry off from a rather wet day of activities. We weren’t the only ones with that same idea; it was quite crowded and cozy inside.

Soon we were on the road again, back towards our B&B, having learned from last night that restaurants stop serving food early, we wanted to be back in time for a real dinner. We continued to see several rainbows, here and there, and the grand total, just for one day was a whopping 6! Including yesterday’s rainbow, that’s already 7, one for every day we have in Ireland. Unbelieveable! Hehe.

We had dinner at Donnelly’s, a seafood restaurant about 20 minutes from our B&B in Barna. I had the seafood chowder, Jaimee had the oysters, and we shared a crusted goats cheese salad. Undeniably, THE very best goat cheese salad either of us had ever eaten. We were nearly drooling over the salad as we ate it, and there was absolutely nothing left on the plate by the time we were finished.

Just as we thought our first full day couldn’t get any more full, we went to the common area of the B&B for a peppermint tea before dinner. And we ran into the other two guests staying there, Sue and Mike. Well, turns out Sue and Mike are pirates! Of the Caribbean! Haha. I’m not joking. 

They met while working on tall ships, you know, the big ones with the sails, i.e. pirate ships, in the Caribbean! I’m already super intrigued by them, and our conversation swells and grows and becomes even more fascinating. Sue lives in a beautiful cottage in the same town that Jane Austen lived, and we learned that Sue and Mike read to each other, as we discussed how authors from the past and even Shakespeare, wrote their stories to be told to people, not read by people. I had never truly thought about that, and now I’m obsessed with the idea, and may finally try some audio books, at least, while I’m doing a long-run. 

We also began discussing a book where a phrase, “the thin place,” was introduced to Sue and Mike. Essentially it’s a place where the veil between this physical earthly world and the emotional/spiritual world is thin, giving one a sense of serenity, or a feeling of “this is where I need to be.” I have felt this in the past, perhaps my most notable moment was my time hiking the Acatenango Volcano in Guatemala.

One last little bit of fun from Mike and Sue. They left us with a recommendation to go to a seaweed soak in a barrel of hot ocean water! I’d never heard of this, and they happened to stumble across it, and they took full advantage of the experience. It is now on my bucket list! And it’s on my list for the next trip to Ireland, whenever that may be. I’m sure there are seaweed hot tubs elsewhere, and should I stumble upon one, you know what I’ll be doing:). 

Sunday: Day 2

We woke up leisurely again this morning, so difficult not to when the weather is inviting you to stay calm and cozy. Our original plan today was to head back towards Westport to hike Croagh Patrick, but again, we felt thwarted by the rain. It just wasn’t the right weather to go for a hike. However, we were corrected a few times. It’s not about whether it’s the right weather, it’s about the right clothes. Hehe. Of which, we had very little. So, we decided to start wandering closer towards our next B&B in Doolin. Along the way, I had found a number of castles we hoped to visit. I labeled them on google maps, but after our first attempt, we realized each location needed more thorough investigation. This first site was closed to the public and looked like it would be a traipse through a very wet field. Which we had been trying to avoid in the first place. 

Onto the next destination; Aughnanure Castle. The reviews were stellar on google, and the entry was only 5 euro, and I can confirm, it is well worth a visit. The gentleman at the ticket counter was so kind and attempted to give us student rates, but we giggled and admitted we were not in fact students, however we might wish for that. He also gave us a map and told us to ask him any questions, but to remember it was designed “to kill people,” and sent us on our way.

The castle was not what I was expecting. I was expecting a large structure like a mansion, or similar to other castles I’ve seen in Scotland. This castle was a more simple tower, perhaps better for defending. It certainly had features that were crafted to stop an invasion. The entry door had a hole above the ceiling where a defender may fire a bow and arrow through or drop rocks on any intruders. My personal favorite, called a “murder hole.” And there were two buttresses that stuck out away from the castle, giving the defenders a vantage point at which to stop the intruders before reaching the main gate. Once inside the main gate, there would be three doors to choose from, disorienting the intruders and delaying them as they figured out which door to go through.

I can’t talk about the castle without mentioning the “poop chute,” and the very depictive signs they’ve put up explaining how that worked. Pretty self-explanatory I would think, but in case you needed a visual to understand, there it was. Lol. I couldn’t imagine the types of drafts that you’d be greeted with, especially on a windy day. We also learned that clothing would be hung in there as well, and the unlucky soul whose job it was to “stir the pot” would do so in the waste pit, releasing the built up ammonia, that would back track up the chute and supposedly, disinfect the clothing and kill tiny pests such as lice and fleas. Jaimee and I agreed we are quite content living the day and age we are. No, thank you. Haha. 

Before leaving, we took shelter under a roof and chatted with the ticket man. He was so knowledgeable and clearly very proud to work there. He in fact said, he was “working at a medieval castle, what more could I want?” He further explained that the castle would be painted white with lime-stone dust for two reasons, 1) to brighten up the interiors, and even with lights on, the cloudy days really did darken the interior. And 2), supposedly the limestone would help kill bacteria and could stave off illnesses such as the plague. Who knew? He told us about all the medicinal plants that grew on the property and explained how important the yew tree was back in those days. In fact, there was an ancient yew tree that would’ve been old back then, too… it’s around 1,000 years old! It has been persevered all this time on the castle grounds. To think of what that tree has born witness to…

Like I said, this is a visit well worth the stop. 

After spending more time than we thought we would there, we decided to head up the road to Oughterard to have lunch. Well, this turned out to be a delightful town as well! A bit busy, but we didn’t have trouble finding parking, and we walked over to Power’s Thatch Pub and Restaurant, complete with yes, a thatched roof! Very quaint, and the food was delicious. I’m not sure we had any meals in Ireland that weren’t quality. Whether it was the food quality or the care they cooked with, it was delicious. 

Post-lunch, we decided we needed a coffee, so down the street we walked and found a coffee shop called “My Little Flower.” We knew this stop was meant to be because Jaimee had been telling me about a “piccolo” coffee, something she discovered in her travels to Australia. And as soon as we walked in the door and read the menu, she gasped and knew what she was going to order. I had never tried one, but Jaimee describes it as the perfect espresso to milk ratio, so I was intrigued and I’m always up for something new, so I ordered one as well. It was a “split,” meaning it came with half the espresso in a cup on its own and the rest mixed in another cup with the milk. It was delightful to try the straight espresso, strong as it was, but we both added it to the other cup. And it was, without doubt, delectable, and I would agree with Jaimee. The coffee was so good, I decided to get a bag to bring home. I have been thinking recently that I don’t use my espresso maker as much as I should or would like to, and this fine coffee may be the motivation I need to use it more. I’d like to try to make my own “piccolos.” 

Our next stop was Athenry Castle, which we snagged student tickets for. The gentleman asked us ever so politely if we were students, to which we both chuckled and said “we wish,” to which the man replied, students it is, then! Haha. Another couple walked in about the same time as us, and our new favorite castle warden gave us all a spiel about the tower. In the rain. Classic Ireland? But also, pretty chilly and damp, hehe. After our educational lesson wrapped up, we were given free reign to explore the tower. Again, it felt surreal to be walking through a castle. And one in the shape of this tower. I had not expected this form at all, and still don’t picture it in my mind when I hear “castle.”

After checking out every nook and cranny, we walked over to another old ruin, the Athenry Dominican Priory, with the glass-less windows, and no way to enter. We peaked over the sides of the once window sills to get an idea of what it might have looked like on the inside and in its heyday. 

And of course, after properly traipsing through the rain and cold, we naturally found ourselves at Murphy’s Bar. We initially found a couple of seats at the bar, an older man so graciously moved aside, without us asking, so we could have two bar stools next to each other. But all of a sudden, Jaimee was gone! Haha. She went to look for a table, and came back with the best kept secret! There was a little fireplace in the back, and the perfect tiny round table for us to sit at. Someone had JUST started the fire, and it was THE perfect spot to warm up with a pint of Guinness and a fire. The guy stoking the fire was using old chair legs and other miscellaneous wood, thanks to a renovation project next door. 

Next up, we began our way towards Doolin, and found ourselves on a corkscrew like road. Very fun to drive, and we kept climbing and climbing, and we saw a rainbow! And we pulled over at a viewpoint and realized this is the spot we had been told about earlier, and we could see some of the Burren limestone terraces. They looked fake, but were natural! If you get a chance, Google them; truly a sight to behold.

We make our way right into Doolin, one of the cutest little towns we’ve been in. I somehow thought it’d be bigger, being a waypoint for the Cliffs of Moher, but it was so quaint and tiny and absolutely picturesque. We check into our Airbnb, which in itself was incredible, and immediately head out for a walk. We didn’t even bring our stuff into our room; we figured we’d best make use of the daylight we had left.

We walked down through “town,” which had a couple of shops and restaurants, and made our way up a hill which paralleled a cow pasture and a pitch and putt. We walked through the grassy hills and got closer to the cow pasture and the views from here were stunning. A huge waterfall was falling off the edge of a cliff in the distance, with waves crashing below, and my favorite dopey cows, just happily munching on the grass with the sounds of the water to soothe them. When I hear “happy cows,” I will think of these beauties. Such lucky cows! 

We had been told that Doolin is a traditional Irish music hotspot, so we set out to find a place with live music. We first stopped by a pub that we would revisit again, and there was a trio, playing a guitar, accordion, and a concertina. I’m always hankering for a fiddle, but this was pretty excellent too! We grabbed some liquid dinner and took up a spot by a pole with a small shelf for the drinks. It was cramped, to say the least, haha. Soon, Jaimee noticed a table that only had 2 people sitting at it. Time to make friends! We sat down and began to chat with our new friends, a couple from the Netherlands. They were taking a trip just for themselves, leaving the kids at home. They were a delight to chat with, while the trio rocked out behind us. We contemplated dinner here, but we’re ready to commit. 

Next up, we walk to another bar that supposedly has live music. We walk in and see some musicians packing up. Or so we thought. They were just arriving! Yes! We stayed put and ordered some more beer, hoping to get a menu for food. Womp Womp. We missed the kitchen call again. Haha. Liquid dinner it is! Huzzah! There is literally nowhere to stand, and its a cold, damp, chilly night, so we are holding all of our layers, plus a pint of beer. It’s cozy inside, but we’re not necessarily the most comfortable. We agree to enjoy our beer, and if we get lucky with a seat, we may stay, or if not, once we polish off our beverages, we’ll head home. Luck of the Irish was with us! After standing for 20 minutes or so, a table opened up, and thanks to Jaimee’s quick action, we snagged two chairs and unloaded our layers and took a seat. 

By now the party was really getting going. There was a group of older women, celebrating one of their birthdays, and they were beautifully outrageous and confident, and having such a blast with each other. And there was, what we think, a wedding party, that came in. Younger, full of wild intoxicated energy, and the whole place lit up. The music was excellent, and soon, everyone was dancing. It was difficult not to join in after a while. the vibes are contagious, and these little Irish pubs with live music has been and will continue to be one of my favorite travel memories. It’s a “thin place” for me, without a doubt. In a way I can’t explain, I feel called to and so welcomed and at home in a dark, warmly lit, cozy Irish pub, singing along with everyone, just having fun with friends and strangers alike. 

I’ve often related that to my love of Western North Carolina and the bluegrass I was exposed to during college. I went to Warren Wilson College in Swannanoa, about 20 minutes east of Asheville. The history of the Appalachian mountains once being the same mountain range as those in Western Europe combined with the immigration from Europe to the United States, there are plenty of similarities. And I can still recal the day I showed up to WWC for the first time. I was in the car with my Mom and Nana, and the GPS (the old fashioned garmin that sat on your dash), said, “you have arrived at your destination.” Clearly, we had been taken a back way into the school, because we were on a small road, in the woods, with no buildings in sight. It was at the moment I knew that’s where I belonged. I can’t help but feel, after learning about “the thin place,” that WWC was that for me as well.

As I digress, let it be known: Ireland and Western NC hold a VERY special place in my heart. And if you’ve been to neither, I encourage you wholeheartedly to put that on your list. 🤗

Up next: Cliffs of Moher!

Once again, I made it through the night without having any issues! Maybe I do have a rock solid stomach! 😁💪🏼. Raw chicken? No problem for me! Or, I’m just VERY lucky. Also, it’s New Zealand, so I have far more faith in their food quality than in the States, AND, Hayden so kindly offered that being a frozen chicken tender, he doubted how much was actually chicken. I did check the box afterward, and chicken was the first ingredient. Thank you very much. 😂

My tour today left earlier than yesterday, but they picked up right from my lodging. Yay! Today would be spent kayaking in the Milford Sound, and the best part was that this tour only had 6 people on it! The Doubtful Sound cruise was loaded with people; we needed 3 big tour buses to take us from the first boat to the second. It was totally different today, and it would be a welcome change to have fewer people around and to get some exercise in while taking in the scenic views.

It was another overcast start to the day, and I had high hopes it would change as we got closer to the sound, as it did yesterday. Driving in, I could only imagine how beautiful the ride was, but it was too dark and foggy to see much. So it was time for a nap! Our guide did offer up some trivia on the drive and he stopped at a few key points for us to take pictures. Thank you, Olly!

One of the coolest parts of the road was the Homer Tunnel. At 1.2km long, it took 20 years to complete, and I’m not sure there would’ve been any other way around… These mountains are HUGE! I would love to see them in the winter covered in snow. 😍

Olly shared a fun fact about the tunnel: every year on April 1st, all the staff who work in Milford run the length of the tunnel at night, in the dark, completely naked. lol. What kind of strange tradition is that? I need to know more about how it got started, haha. I think the whole van was still half asleep because nobody thought to ask Olly if he had participated. Big missed opportunity there for a fun story, haha.

Before we knew it, we were at the starting point of our kayak adventure. It took us a hot minute to get situated with our thermal clothes and kayak gear. For the tour, I was paired up with another solo traveling woman, Sungwun. We rock, paper, scissored, and the loser was to take the back seat, which had the big responsibility of steering the kayak with foot pedals attached to the back rudder. I’ve never seen a kayak with that feature before. Is that what separates a sea kayak from a fresh water kayak? Thankfully I won and took my prize in the front of the kayak.

It took us a few minutes to get the hang of the double kayak, but we were cruising along in no time. We round the corner and get our first real glimpse of Milford Sound. There is a striking waterfall, which we will be getting closer to later on, and *the* instragamable shot right ahead of us. 😍 Although the tops of the mountains were obscured by the clouds, it was still beautiful; I always feel that misty clouds add a bit of mystique to the ambiance. Once again, it feels as though I’ve been transported into a fairytale land. I think that’s maybe the best way to describe the natural beauty of NZ… Think of your favorite fantasy book or movie setting, and that is NZ.

About halfway through, we paused for a moment in the middle of the water to have a snack and a drink of water. We just floated along with the rising tide, taking in the glorious mountain peaks all around us. I have to say, this may have been the most picturesque place I’ve ever eaten an Oreo. 🤣 And now I have a new mission: always bring Oreos for photo ops in fun places :). My newest friend, Sungwun, used the word “primordial” to describe the scenery, and I can’t think of a better word. It does feel like prehistoric, untouched land and brings to mind my favorite wild and mossy trees.

Something I learned on our tour was how the trees on the steep slopes survive. The exposed rock is first populated by moss, and soon, small things begin to take root and grow. But because the roots can not dig deep, they sprawl out to the sides, connecting and intertwining with other root systems. Essentially, the trees are holding each other up, and if one falls, they’re all at risk of destruction. And there is clear evidence of this on the hillside all around: giant “slips,” where the rock is nearly barren, with a small amount of moss beginning to grow. Other slips are further along in their regrowth, boasting small trees that will one day rise to the heights of their neighbors.

I loved hearing about this process and couldn’t help but think of what a beautiful metaphor that is for the world. We’re all incredibly interconnected, more so now than ever before, and an affront to one of us is an affront to all of us. We need each other to survive and thrive in this intricately globalized world. 🌏

Sooner than we wanted, it was time to head back to where we began and hang up our kayaking gear. But the day was far from over! We still had some time to spend in “town,” or rather, at the one information center/cafe in all of Milford, haha. Sungwun and I really wanted to put our bathing suits to good use. We both had brought them with us traveling and hadn’t gone swimming yet! Haha, so why not right now? We were already partially wet from kayaking… it’s now or never!

So we gear up and head towards the water’s edge. I dip my toes in, and brrrrr is it cold. I know I’m going to get in; I have a Polar Plunge reputation to uphold after all (Oktobellfest, anyone? :D). I make my way in, one slow step at a time, and get about halfway when Sungwun is ready to join me. She asks me if it’s cold, and I say noooooo while hugging myself and shivering 🤣. She howls with laughter but doesn’t get scared away. She comes right on in with me, and we stay what we deem was an appropriate amount of time, and not a second longer before quickly jumping out and drying off. We did it! Albeit brief, we went swimming!

Next up was the drive back to Te Anau, but again, Olly hooked us up with some stops along the way for excellent photo ops and a bathroom break. Overall, the tour was fabulous, and although I was tired after doing 2 day trips back to back, I wouldn’t have changed a thing!

The rest of the afternoon and evening were spent doing laundry and packing for my return trip to the North Island. I wanted to write for the blog, so I made myself some coffee, risking not being able to sleep, and got to work.

Sunset wasn’t until 9pm, and I realized I didn’t want to end my time on the South Island while being in my tiny room on my iPad. So, I ventured out for an evening walk around 8, hoping to catch the sun setting behind the mountains. I then decided I would walk down to the bird sanctuary. It was a 10-minute walk from where I was staying and had some pretty awesome birds to see, including one that nearly went extinct!

I made it to the bird sanctuary and saw the famous Takahē, a flightless bird whose population is being revived through conservation efforts. And that was about the only bird I saw at the sanctuary; most of them were already in their nests for the evening, hehe. Sleepy birds 😴. I was still happy with my evening stroll, and by the time I made it back to the lodge, the sun was minutes from setting behind the mountains. Success! What a perfect way to end my stay in Fjordland.

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I woke up earlier than I wanted today due to a loud German guy next door having a phone conversation with someone at 4am! I know the time difference is a thing, but it’s very obvious that the walls here are paper thin here. Have a little decency and go outside? At one point, I could even hear the person on the other end of the phone, lol. Grrreat. 🙄

I was able to fall back asleep for a brief while until my alarm went off and finished last minute packing for the trip back to Queenstown. The bus back was picking me up right at my lodge, and honestly, it can’t get better than that! 😄

I load onto the bus with a few others, and we all got window seats! Hooray! And off we went through the dense fog. I did my best to go through the multitudes of photos I took while also trying to absorb the views. The ride was great, and we stopped at a little cafe for a bathroom and some snacks, and back on the road we went. The day cleared up, and it was perfect for viewing the mountains surrounding the Wakatipu Lake.

I get dropped off downtown and consider asking the hostel if they’ll store my bag, but I decide to just keep it with me and hike up to the top of the gondola ride. It should take around 2.5 hours total to go up and back down again. But I like to challenge the published times, even with a larger pack on my back. I got this!

Well, this trail is VERY steep. I may have had instant regrets, but I shoved them deep down and carried on. The more you work for something, the more rewarding it is in the end. Right? 😅. 

The trail was a series of extra steep switchbacks, with only a few blessed sections of flat. Otherwise, it was straight up and up and up. I made it to the top in less than an hour and felt quite proud of that time. I wandered around the visitors center at the top, enjoying utterly spectacular views of Queenstown and the lake. So worth it! It’s always worth it! Apparently, there was another trail to catch to the summit. Do I have time? Nah… I don’t want to play with fire and end up missing my flight up to Wellington. So I take it all in and see how fast I can make it down. The sign said plan on an hour descent. No way is it taking me longer than it did to hike up. I went down in around 30-40 minutes… those extra steep bits? Extra hard on the down. But I hiked up and down in record time, totaling 1:27! Woohoo! I did it a whole hour faster!🥳 But I’m not competitive or anything…😅🤣

Hungry after my grueling hike, I went back to Beech Craft Beers and had a delicious chicken sandwich and another flight of beer. Well earned, I’d say. After I ate my fill, I went hunting for a particular set of postcards. I have only seen them a few times, and I got an idea in my head to grab 3 of them and put them in a frame together. I figured this would be my art souvenir until I stumbled across something I knew I had to have. Sometimes, you just know. And I know I was meant to have this thing. It’s gorgeous!

Soon, it was time to head back to the airport and say, “See you soon, Queenstown!” It was a bittersweet departure, as I was headed back to the North Island to be reunited with Dana and Hayden for the last few days of my time in NZ.

The first flight was easy and quick and had incredible views! I opted to pay extra to get a window seat because I did not want to miss out on that! And I’m happy to say it was 100% worth it! And I actually ended up with the whole row to myself! Amazing! When you know, you know! Haha.

My next flight to New Plymouth was delayed a bit, but I went and sat down in the waiting area to continue writing. That’s when I noticed a guy with a huge bouquet of roses head over to where people are exiting the arrival gates. The people sitting behind me notice him and start commentating, and I’m loving every minute of it! We’re all patiently waiting for this man’s partner to walk through the doors and see him. We want to see their expression! Hehe. Sooo many people walk past, and the three of us start to wonder where the heck is this other person? And we blink, and the man with the roses disappears. He hid himself from us behind a pillar. Stupid pillar! We need to see how this ends! Hehe.

After anxiously waiting and watching dozens of people exit, FINALLY, a beautiful woman walks through with a huge smile on her face and embraces the man with the roses. They start walking our way, and both are utterly beaming and walk arm and arm past their unknown fan club of supportive spectators. It was so cute and heartwarming! Happy Valentines Day! I want someone to bring me flowers at the airport! 🥹 So freaking adorable. 🤗🥰

I made it to New Plymouth and was again greeted by Dana and Hayden. I could get used to this! 😁 We make our way to the Airbnb for the night, which is more like a hotel/apartment? Odd, but it’ll do, haha. Time for a shower and bed and another round of adventures in the morning. 😁

Today, I embark on an epic side quest to Queenstown! I can’t believe this all worked out, and I’m actually going! 😁🤗. I sort of had it in mind as a possibility, but honestly, I didn’t think it would happen. Turns out, the universe had other plans in store for me, and who I am to deny the great unknown? Tee-hee 🤗🥰

Dana drove me to an airport about an hour away in Palmerston North, and from there, I flew back to Auckland, where I caught the flight to Queenstown. I arrived in the afternoon with plenty of sunlight to burn, so I checked into the hostel and set out to explore. Queenstown is breathtaking! And quite possibly the most idyllic and serene place I have ever seen. The city sits on a lake surrounded by towering mountains. It’s so surreal, and the water is super clear, and I just can’t stop taking photos and admiring the views. 😍🤩

I walked a good amount of time around the Queenstown Gardens, and then I found a watering hole to quench my thirst. Beech Craft Beer was nestled in the middle of a pedestrian only area. I ordered a flight of beer and enjoyed the variety of selections. Next up was a trip to Fergburger! Not only did Dana and Hayden make me promise to go, but another friend of mine, Jacinda, also suggested I wait in the super long line wrapped around the block to try the famous burgers.

Okay, I get it. I have to go! Haha. So I did! And it turns out I timed it amazingly because the line really wasn’t that long. I got the Southern Swine burger and waited. Soon, my number was up, and I collected my food and took it down to the beach to eat while I ogled the view. After eating the ENORMOUS burger, I decided to lay down and take a little snooze. 😴

After a solid cat nap, I decided I wasn’t ready to go back to the hostel, so I found another brewery called Atlas and decided it was fitting, being travel related and all, and therefore worth a visit. After indulging in a beer there, I walked over to Smiths; making my own little bar crawl in Queenstown:). I HAD to visit ‘Smiths’ because of Dana and Hayden… Smith. Not related, but still neat 🤗. I did plan to obscond with a few name-sake coasters for my dear friends, but alas, there were none to be had. Oh well. By the time I finished, I was done for the day and walked back to the hostel to relax and get ready for tomorrow’s adventure to Te Anau!

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I woke up early, trying to be as quiet as possible while I got ready in the hostel room. I had to leave in the dark to make it out to the bus pickup location on time, which was conveniently located directly in front of a cafe. Yay!  I ordered a coffee and some yogurt with granola. Perfect! 😊

On the bus ride to Te Anau, the driver gave us all sorts of commentary. I learned that New Zealand was one of the last places in the world to be inhabited, and that the untouched forests of New Zealand offer some of the best insight into what the mega continent, Gondawana, was like in terms of flora and fauna. Birds were pretty much the sole inhabitants of the islands before humans arrived and brought with them everything else and then some. That is why New Zealand has so many species of birds, especially flightless birds.

Another very practical tip the driver gave us was a safety one, applicable in all facets of life. He suggested that if one finds themself in need of emergency help or is lost, just take a photo! The phone will log the information of said photo, including where it was taken. So even if you have no clue where you are and no signs around, your phone will outsmart you! Then you’re able to let emergency services know where you are. Genius!

While I’m on my Southland adventure, Dana was asked to sing at a funeral. She summarized it so beautifully that this woman who passed had lived an extraordinary life. One well lived, one that we all could aspire to have. And yet, in the end, it’s all compiled and organized into speaking points for a one-time eulogy. The bigger picture here: no matter what you do in life, we all end up in the same place. So why not live life to the fullest right NOW? To take risks, to take that trip you’ve been dreaming of. In the end, money doesn’t matter, just memories and the experiences you took advantage of. So get out there! Have fun and be yourself, do what brings you joy, and spread the love! 🤗🥰

I arrived in Te Anau way too early to check in at the lodgings, so I headed to town, surely able to occupy myself for the morning and afternoon. Well, if you don’t know, Te Anau is VERY small, haha. You can walk the entirety of the main street in under 5 minutes. So, I decided to walk along the shore of the Te Anau Lake. It’s gorgeous! On the opposite side of the shore are impressive mountains nestled within the Fjordland National Park, and the beaches are covered in beautiful stones. Not easy to walk on, but beautiful.

My accommodations were about a 20 minute walk from town, so I began heading there around 1pm, hoping I could check in a tad early. I was in luck! I got to my single little room, and it was adorable! Once I was settled, I took a nap, organized my things, and then walked back to town for some refreshments and groceries. The place I was staying in had a shared kitchen, and you had to rent a kitchen basket with all the dishes and silverware one would require. I’m not sure why that couldn’t be included in the rate, lol, but all is good.

I bought some frozen veggies, some frozen chicken tenders, and some quick noodle packets. I thought I was golden! Until I was eating my dinner, hastily microwaved because the electric cook top was just taking too long, and I realized the chicken was raw! Omg. Haha. I had NO idea the breaded chicken tenders were raw! And they were frozen! I just assumed they’d be fully cooked. So weird. Serves me right for not really reading the box, and just looking at the pictures, 😅. So I’m obviously concerned I’ll get food poisoning and / or salmonella, and won’t be able to do my day trips in the Fjordland National Park (they weren’t exactly cheap!) Uggggghhh. But, on the other hand, I went through some serious bouts of stomach issues while living in El Salvador, so maybe this is a true test of my rock solid gut! I’m sure hopeful my body will rise to the challenge 😅🤣.

Well, time for bed. And here’s for hoping I don’t wake up in the middle of the night with a severe problem. 😬

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Sooooo happy to say I made it through the evening with no issues! I think I’ll be alright! I’m going for the day cruise and hoping I still manage to be okay because food poisoning on a boat does not sound like fun. Haha.

Today I’ll be headed to Doubtful Sound, and to get there, I’ll need to take a bus, to take a boat, to take another bus, to finally embark on the cruise. Very fun and adventurous, but daunting, when living with an ever ticking time bomb of potential food poisoning, lol. Wish me luck! Here I go!

The first bus ride is rather short, and once you arrive in Manapouri, you collect a picnic lunch if you ordered one, and it comes in the cutest metal bento box! I love the consideration for the environment. The little cafe here also allows you to take the ceramic cups onto the boat, as they do not have disposable cups. Amazing!

This first boat will take us through the Manapouri Lake to the other side, where we will again take a bus to the dock for the Doubtful Sound cruise. It was overcast, but the impressive mountains surrounding the lake were still visible. It was like getting a little teaser of what was to come. 🤗

Once we get to the second bus, we’re only 50 minutes away from our final stop. No wonder this is an all-day event, hehe. Our driver gave us some commentary on the way, and she pointed out a few things, one of them being one of my now favorite trees: the New Zealand Beech Tree. They look so old and are covered in moss that hangs low, and the limbs are gangly, and they give the impression they’ve been taken straight out of a fairytale. We passed one gigantic tree that was 650 years old! WOW!

Another point of interest was the peak of the road, which officially divides the East from the West, and as promised previously, the weather is usually significantly different across the divide. And sure enough, not a moment sooner, the overcast sky opened up to a crystal clear blue sky. Perfect weather for the cruise!

The cruise took us all the way out to the Tasman Sea, where we were hoping to spot some wildlife. And success! We were lucky to see some seals lounging on a big rock. Once we were all the way into the ocean, it was a marked difference from traveling within the safety of the sound. The waves were quite large and made for a fun yet perilous ride through. I didn’t know the cruise was taking us that far, and I was very pleased to wander out into the Tasman Sea!

On the way back to the dock, one of our guides on the boat asked us to observe a moment of silence. The captain turned off the boat engines while we picked a spot where we wouldn’t move from. We were asked not to speak, not to use our phones, but rather, just soak it all in. I LOVED this. And everybody abided! Nobody spoke. There were no noises besides some birds in the distance and the small waves crashing against the rocky shore. What a meditative moment in time, shared but a group of strangers. That may have been my favorite part of the whole cruise. How often do you just take a moment and live in the now? Just being, breathing, looking, listening, and feeling.

While on the cruise, I made a friend! Jack, from Arizona. He was also traveling alone, so we chatted a bit about our travels, as solo travelers do, haha. Once we made it back to Te Anau, we had dinner and a celebratory beverage after a wonderful day. Soon, it was my witching hour, and it was time to head home and get ready for the next adventure!

We began our day nice and early and with much needed coffee before quickly heading out the door to begin our next adventure! Today, we are driving towards Lake Taupō, an ancient supervolcano! But first, right in Rotorua, we are stopping by a redwood forest. How cool! I have seen redwoods before in California, but not the GIANT ones, and these redwoods were so gorgeous and tall! Some were pretttttttty thick! This redwoods park has a neat tree walk adventure you can pay for as well. At first, it didn’t look as enticing as it sounded, but then we saw a map of the entire circuit, and it looked lengthy and high up, so we decided it could be a lot of fun. THEN, we saw you could do it at nighttime, with lanterns hanging from the trees! Sold. For the next trip. 🙂

With the redwoods checked off on Hayden’s sheet of paper that listed all our potential activities, or as it was misheard and consequently renamed by Dana for the remainder of our trip, “shitty paper,” 🤣, we were onto the next: Orekei Karako, a geothermal area on the way to Taupō. We left Rotorua early enough to arrive at Orekei Karako as it opened. Even though we were about 10 minutes “late,” there were only 5 cars total in the parking lot. We guessed most were the staff, and one was a camper van that probably parked there overnight. So basically, we were the only group! We did see the boat head across the lake before we got our tickets, but we figured there would be enough space between us and them anyway.

Orekei Karako was stunning in a wild, dangerous, mystical sort of way. We were warned to stay on the boardwalk as we should assume the water all around to be boiling and capable of burning our skin. But other than a quick warning and safety briefing, they let us board the boat, and we sailed across the lake to guide ourselves through. I can’t believe they trust us! 😅🤪

Walking through the park is other-worldly and feels like mother nature’s science experiment. So many colors and designs and pools of bubbling, boiling water. To make things even better, we didn’t see another human until we came across a worker with a leaf blower. That must’ve been who came on the boat before us! Hehe. Literally, we are the only visitors here! Always go early! We took our time meandering through, giggling at all the danger signs. All I could think of was 🎵 “highway to the danger zone!”🎵🤣. As we finished up, we enjoyed some snacks and a coffee from the visitors center before hitting the road again.

Before reaching Taupō, Dana wanted to bring me to the “Bee Hive,” a large store that has, you guessed it, honey products! We got to sample some different honeys, and it was pretty impressive how different they each tasted. They had plenty of beauty products as well, including some with bee venom! Yikes! Haha. Don’t go near if you’re allergic! 🤪

Just outside of Taupō is the famed Huka Falls; both a must-see and an overwhelming tourist destination. It takes about 30 seconds to walk from the parking lot to the bridge that crosses the rushing blue water. And when I say blue, I mean cotton candy blue or maybe ice blue? I’ve seen pictures before and wondered how they compared to seeing it in real life. And I can say it is just as blue, if not more so than the photos. After fighting through the tourist hoards, we take it all in, pose for some photos, and back in the car we go to find out Airbnb.

Our Airbnb was super cute, but a ways from town. So, we unloaded the car, connected to WiFi, and made a game plan for the afternoon. The forecast showed rain in the afternoon, so we wanted to make the most of the dry weather while we could.

We drove to town to a small restaurant called Fish Box to have some fish n’ chips. I didn’t really think anything of it, but little did I know, fish n’ chips are a BIG thing here in NZ. I was prepared for the British fish n chips with loads of vinegar and salt. No no no. Haha. NZ fish n chips are “crummed;” a light flaky batter as opposed to the thick oily beer batter. AND the fish is spectacular! We had gurnard, and when I tell you this fish was buttery and sweet and pure perfection, listen to me. Haha. There was ZERO need or want for vinegar or salt. By far, the best fish n chips I have ever had. I’m almost afraid to try it somewhere else in NZ in case it’s not the same. 😅

We ate this delectable meal right on the lake, and after we finished, we walked down the esplanade and sat a moment by the edge of this enormous lake. I wanted to go to town and walk around, hoping to find some souvenirs of some kind or another. AND to see this famous McDonalds I had been hearing about for days, haha. Now, I’m the least McDonalds-y person there is, but my curiosity was peaked. Hayden was sure I’d love it, but Dana became worried he was building it up too much. He was like a kid in a candy shop, full force giddy, and I was all for it. 🤣

We walked down one street, and Hayden knew it was around the corner and literally ran down to see it. Before I rounded the corner, he told me to close my eyes or to not look up. I tilted my hat down and stared at the ground as I walked. Soon, I was instructed to lift my gaze at the spectacle in front of me…

A PLANE. There was a PLANE parked right next to McDonalds, a part of it. OMG. SOOOOOO COOOOOOL. I couldn’t wait to check it out! We wanted to get some ice cream and settled on the classic McFlurry so we could sit INSIDE the airplane. Except it was way too hot to sit in an aluminum can, so we took pictures and ate where the AC was cranking.

After walking around the cute and touristy downtown, we drove back to Airbnb for a cozy night in. We showered, got our new favorite tv show set up, and snuggled on the couch. We made popcorn, and Dana and I shared some wine. THEN. It began to rain. Hard core. Thunder, Lightning, and even HAIL. What a show! It was the perfect addition to a cozy evening. 🤗

While we were vegging, I checked the possibilities of doing a quick trip down to the South Island, and Hayden put on his travel agent hat and was looking for flights, and I was checking out day trip availability and accommodations. Just a little while later, I was booking said flights, day trips, and hostels. It all just worked out so seamlessly, and even the weather forecast was looking favorable. So, why miss out on the opportunity? Hehe. Yay! Cheers to a surprise adventure! 😁🤗

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We woke up to head to our next Airbnb, right outside of the National Park in Okahune. But along the way, we stopped in the National Park to do some hiking. First up: Tawhai Falls, also known as Gollum’s pool. It’s a short hike with a great waterfall, perfect for a morning stroll.

Next up was a longer hike to see another, even larger waterfall, all while hiking with excellent views of Mt. Ngauruhoe, or “Mt. Doom.” Except for the clouds blocking all views of the perfect cinder cone. 😭 Waaahhh. I guess we can’t luck out every time. The hike was still super beautiful, passing through alpine prairies and then through small clusters of super dense forest with trees covered in moss! My favorite! “Oh, look! Another mossy tree!” Hehe. Eventually, we left the forested area to be greeted with a very rocky terrain, and just ahead, the Taranaki Waterfall. It was beautiful!

After soaking up the moment, we began the trek back to the car. While on our journey, Dana suffered from a blister incident, and combined with the clouds, we decided to bail on the last hike on the list, also for views of Ngauruhoe. We considered backtracking to some hot springs but realized they only had private ones available for rent. In the end, we all agreed we’d head to the Airbnb in the ski town and just relax. 🤗

Okahune has a super important and must-see spot for anyone nearby. A GIANT carrot, among other vegetables. Don’t believe me? Check out the picture! Haha. This is a whole park with these larger than life vegetables, some with oddly human looking limbs. Very strange, but Okahune is known for its carrots, so then again, maybe it’s just one big marketing scheme. 😂🥕

After grabbing some groceries, we head back to our “mountain chalet,” pig out, and watch an obscene amount of “Ghosts” episodes. I think the road trip has caught up to us, and having the afternoon to just chill and binge was exactly what we needed.

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Sunday started out with huge fail. We had our hearts set on doing the “Bridge to Nowhere,” but as it turns out, it’s in the middle of nowhere. Literally. 🤣. There are no roads there. The only ways to see it are a) to kayak up the river and then walk 40 minutes, or to start at the other end of a long cycling trail and walk for at least 2 or 3 days to get there. Sooooo…. We’re NOT doing the bridge to nowhere, haha. 😅🤣

No problem for us, though! Just a quick pivot, and we’re back in action. The sky appeared to be nearly cloudless, so we decided to do some more hiking in the National Park. First up was a trail head near our Airbnb, one that ended at another waterfall! This was probably the least impressive waterfall of all the ones we’ve seen so far… The viewpoint didn’t offer a good view, and it wasn’t much more than a trickle. It is, however, the highest altitude waterfall in the National Park. So that’s cool! And, the trail was actually gorgeous! My favorite part was the amazing view of Mt. Ruapheu, as we crossed the alpine prairie.

Next up was a trail I heard about when I offered to take someone’s picture the day before. It’s Mead’s Wall and is a very short hike from the ski resort, which is situated super close to the summit of Ruapheu. It was other-worldly up there, to say the least. It felt like driving through Mars with the volcanic landscape peppered with rough jagged rocky outcroppings. No life in sight.

I found it so unique to have a ski resort on a volcano! I couldn’t, and if I’m being honest, I still can’t wrap my head around it. When I think of ski resorts, I think of very lush, evergreen mountains covered in beautiful snow. There are most definitely no trees up on top of this volcano turned ski slope, haha.

Mead’s Wall turned out to be one of our favorite nuggets in the National Park and is apparently yet another site that was used in LOTR. Cool! The best part was the amazing view of “Mt. Doom!” 😍🤩

Next up was the ridge hike to see Ngauruhoe that we bailed on yesterday! Recovery! We could see her loud and proud on the horizon, but after seeing her from Mead’s Wall, we decided the view up there was better. And this hike was all uphill. The entire way. Haha. Good exercise, and I’m glad we crossed it off the list, but, truth be told, there’s no need to hike it. You’re welcome. 😄

After that, it was time to head home to Wanganui, ending our road trip. It was only a few days, but it felt like weeks. And it was amazing to have the trio back together for another adventure. I can’t wait to see where we go over the years! What will be next? Japan? A waffle in Belgium? South Africa? Your guess is as good as mine!

Back in Wanganui, we stopped for kebabs; a must have to kill off the oncoming “hanger.” If you don’t know already, it’s a thing in NZ to go barefoot everywhere. Even restaurants. So Dana and I lived it up and went in with no shoes! It felt so wrong to do since nearly everywhere in the states is the opposite: “No shoes, no shirt, no service.” I LOVED going barefoot, haha. It was odd, for sure, but it was such a neat experience, and I suppose now I can check that one off the list. 🤗

The rest of the evening was spent planning and packing for my surprise side-quest adventure to the South Island! Here we goooo! 😁

Today, we begin our epic NZ North Road trip! And, it also happens to be Waitangi Day; the day the Māori and the British signed the treaty, creating what we now know as New Zealand. #themoreyouknow! 🙂

First up: a drive through the perilous Paraparas. This road is small and super winding, with large trucks and an assortment of cars and campers traveling by. There is very little room for error and little to no opportunities to pass a slower vehicle; your passing game has to be strong here in NZ. This little road is a highway. Yup. A main road of egress and travel. So, if you’re caught behind a trailer, your trip can end up much longer than originally anticipated. 😅

As we wind our way through the Paraparas and towards the National Park, we begin to see a hazy view of the big mountain: Ruapheu. She certainly looks mighty in the distance, and I can’t wait to see her up close! 🤗🤩

Once we officially cross into the National Park, we look for a spot to take pictures of the beautiful volcanic skyline. There is Mt. Ruapheu, Mt. Ngauruhoe (also known as Mt. Doom, if you’re a LOTR fan), and Tongariro. My next trip to New Zealand must include a hike across the Tongariro Crossing… it looks absolutely epic! Our trio takes several selfies here, of course, and we jump back in the car and continue on our way to the Waitomo region.

Just beyond our Airbnb for the night are two side quests we need to see: a waterfall and a cave! The Marakopa waterfall was amazing! I’m not sure what I was expecting, but I wasn’t imagining anything grand; it was just a short stop off on the side of the road. Turns out, it’s quite impressive and well worth the side quest! The setting sun cast its golden glow along the falling water, and it made for a magical experience. This was also my first time walking through the woods (“bush”) in NZ, and I quickly identified my favorite tree: It’s a fern the size of a tree! Soooo cool! Hayden started looking for a silver fern to show me; a national symbol of New Zealand. It looks like a regular fern, but if you look underneath, the backside is a silvery white color instead of green.

The next side quest took us to the Piripiri Cave. Another short hike off the road, and we were staring at the cave entrance. The sun was setting, and it was pitch black inside. Too bad we didn’t bring head lamps. Oh wait, Hayden DID pack a head lamp in the 3 bags he brought with him, because “options,” haha. But did he bring it on the hike? Nope. 🙄. He left it in the car. So we amble down the steps into the cave with the flashlights on our phones, and Dana manages to snag some epic photos with her camera. I’m sorry to say my Samsung phone didn’t hold a candle to her pictures. Mine usually does really well, but not this time. 😬.

Next up was the biggest adventure of all: finding our way to our Airbnb located on an active farm. The list of directions the host provided us was the longest we’d ever seen, and they even provided a 4WD vehicle to make it all the way to the hut. Oh boy. Haha. We had to unlock a gate, close it behind us, drive past the main house to a barn, leave our car, transfer our stuff to the 4WD car, and continue down the path, through another gate, over a bridge, up a hill, and finally… our hut came into view. It was ADORABLE! If anyone wants a picturesque and quiet place while traveling in the Waitomo region, don’t sleep on this one, It’s amazing.  There was no light pollution, and the stars at night were breathtaking. We even saw the Milky Way and the Southern Cross!

Check out The Rimu Hut on Aibnb!:)

After exploring and enjoying our sweet, sweet home for the evening, we all curled up in bed for the night. I had my very own nook at the top of a very tiny bookshelf staircase! It doesn’t get any cuter than that, hehe. 🤗

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We woke up before dawn, and there was a beautiful yet spooky fog hanging around the farm. We packed our things and said our last-minute goodbyes to the most serene Airbnb we had ever stayed at. We have a big day ahead of us, but first, a trip to see a natural bridge!

This natural bridge was basically a two for one; the lookout point was on top of what appeared to be a natural bridge, and above it, there was also a natural rock bridge. We began this hike before the official sunrise, so hiking in was pretty dark. Do you think we brought the headlamp? Nope. Hah 🤣. The good news was that on our way out, we got to see everything in detail, as the sun had fully risen.

Our big excitement for the day was a cave tour with the Legendary Black Water Rafting! And we’d be seeing gloworms as well! The entire adventure would take about 3 hours. What an experience! We put on wetsuits, a first for me, and quite difficult, and we were taught a few things before driving out to the cave entrance. We did a practice jump into the little creek, as we’d have to jump a couple of times in the cave. In the dark. Hehe 🤗.

The water was pretty cold, but the wetsuit did help to keep us warm, and once we were inside, it was such a neat experience, I don’t even think I noticed the chill of the water. We crawled around in some places, had to float on our tubes to get through a narrow passage, and the big show of it was floating down the main area, with tons of glowworms above us, shining like stars. Amazing! I highly recommend this and would do it again. 😁

Our next stop was a surprise for me, but the trail we wanted turned out to be closed. So, we had to pivot slightly. We ended up driving to another trail head, and after nearly giving up on trying to find parking, we scored a spot in the parking lot! Not even on the street! Sweet!

So we begin a much shorter walk towards the Blue Spring Pools of Te Waihou. This was certainly an overcrowded touristy place, but I’d say it was totally worth it. We didn’t get the longer hike that we wanted, but we saw the beautiful and tranquil blue spring waters.

Soon, it was time to work our way to Rotorua for the evening. But not before stopping in to see some more waterfalls! We did the Okere Falls and hiked all around this area. It was an easy hike, and we were glad to get more of a walk in, since we didn’t get the one we wanted at the Blue Springs.

Next up to Rotorua for a hot minute! 🤗

Rotorua… smells like eggs…. It’s a huge area for geothermal activity, and thus, the smell is inescapable and undeniable, hehe.

I took the 6:50 AM Super Shuttle to the airport and arrived around 7:30. Very early for my 9:45 flight that boards at 9:30. lol. You can never be too sure, right?

Dana recommended I go to Best Ugly Bagel inside the domestic terminal, and it did not disappoint. Supposedly, I should’ve been able to use my Priority Pass for some freebies, but the machine didn’t accept my card? Interesting. Oh well, I was still going to purchase my bagel and coffee, hehe.

I checked in for the flight and was sure my bag would meet the maximum 7kg requirement… I had packed less than before, and it was all in the Cotopaxi bag, with plenty of room to spare! Surely it wouldn’t weigh very much, right? Wrong. It clocked in at 9.9kg… dang it! Haha. And it was a bit too wide to fit in the overhead bins. So I checked it.

When I got on the plane and saw just how tiny the overhead bins really were, I knew there was no way that bag was ever fitting. I’m surprised the “sample” bin at check-in was as big as it was because I saw rollaboards fitting in, but I doubt they could’ve really fit inside the cabin, haha.

The flight from Auckland to Wanganui was about an hour, and it was quite cloudy. Although, I did get to see some mountain peaks, which I can only assume belong to the National Park. This plane, a Saab 340, was officially the smallest commercial plane I have ever been on! Hehe. So cute!

After we landed and were taxiing to the terminal (no gate here, just walk out onto the tarmac, hehe), I saw Dana and Hayden waiting! And they even waved, and I caught it on camera! Haha. And they got a video of me! 🤗.

We take the long drive (a whopping 6 minutes) to Dana and Hayden’s house. It’s such a cute town! And their house is even cuter! It was surreal seeing it in person as opposed to via video chat and pictures.

We then took a quick trip to town for lunch and some errands, and we walked down the main avenue of town. Very picturesque art-deco buildings and a quaint small town feel for sure. The sushi place we had lunch at was a serve yourself, and the owner was so kind and cheerful. He gave us free mini spring rolls as my welcome to Wanganui. I love this place! Hehe

Back at the Smith homestead, we sat outside and planned a bit of our travels for my visit. Now, I’ve left all of this in their hands, as I trust them to know the best of the best, and with similar interests, I have no doubt whatever we do is going to be absolutely incredible! Hehe. But, I’m curious, so I ask what the plans are. Hayden cryptically asks me if I really want to know or to leave some of it a surprise? Of course, I want to know, but I do love the idea of not knowing every detail. So that’s where we left it. Haha. I did find out, however, we will be visiting some sort of famous McDonalds? … I know I know… McDonalds?! … I’ve been promised it’s worth the visit… and now I’m REALLY interested and want to google it, but I won’t. Lol.

Soon, it was time for Dana and Hayden to get ready for a wedding later that evening. And I would have the house to myself! WOW! Hehe. I planned to be productive but only managed about 45 minutes of busy work before I turned on Netflix, hehe. It’s time for bed and a new adventure tomorrow! 🙂

Sunday started with a lovely and relaxing breakfast at Hayden’s parent’s house. They set up the outdoor tables in the garden, and we enjoyed good conversation and the beauty of the flowers and bird song as we ate together. I heard the infamous “Tui” bird for the first time! I was able to spot him, too, but with the gorgeous sun casting shadows, he just looked to be all black. But in reality, the Tui has amazing blue hues on his front. Gorgeous!

After breakfast, Dana and Hayden took me to Virgina Lake, which has a lovely trail all around. This happened to be the place Hayden proposed to Dana! Awwww, hehe. We saw tons of birds and ducks, all anxiously awaiting the humans to pass by and offer up the toll of some bread crumbs or whatever other tasty morsel one is willing to part with. We saw another distinct bird, the pukeko, and was amazed by the colors, but after seeing a few more up close, I was slightly frightened by them. They’re feet are huge and spindly and remind me of what a bird-dinosaur’s feet would look like. 😅🤣

As if the birds and ducks around the small lake weren’t enough, we walked over to the small but mighty aviary in the park. Here, we got to see many smaller parakeets and some larger guinea fowl. One of the little parakeets was a lovely blue color! Amazing!

Once we finished taking in the beautiful colors of the birds, we hopped back into the car for some ice cream! But this wasn’t just any ice cream. It was berry ice cream, made with fresh, and just picked berries from the berry farm! They scoop some ice cream and put it into a big machine, then take a scoop of fresh berries, and the machine mashes it all together and then spits out a soft-serve look-a-like into a cone and voilà! You have freshly made berry ice cream. Boysenberry is a big deal around here, so naturally, I was recommended to try it. It did not disappoint, hehe.

On our way back, we stopped by the Kai Iwi beach! And guess what? It’s a black sand beach! Hehe. It was beautiful! And we saw some cliff-side houses that should be million dollar homes, but apparently, the cliff is eroding and the houses are no longer worth the investment and the liability if you know, the cliff with the houses happens to break off and plummet into the water. Hmmm… haha. Luxury or disaster?

We got back to the house with plenty of the afternoon left, so I went on my first run! It felt great, but it was hot out there. I suppose I know better than to run in the heat of the day. Lol. Hey, at least I went, right? Hehe

When I got back, we started a new tv show, “Ghosts,” cute, pretty stupid, but funny. We only made it a couple of episodes before we were ready for bed.

Dana has Monday’s off, so after a first round of coffee and my morning run, we head into town, and while she is getting her monthly massage, I relax at a beautiful cafe and read my book. Afterward, Dana swings around to pick me up so we can head over to the “Waimarie,” and historic paddle steamer, famous in Wanganui. We’re going to do a 2 hour cruise up and down the river! This will be awesome!

“Waimarie” means good fortune in the Māori language… and we’re beginning the trip with good fortune, so that must mean it’s going to be an epic trip! 🤗. It’s possible that this paddle steamer is the only one on this side of the world. It’s unique because it’s completely steam-powered, and it utilizes paddles as opposed to rudders. On the boat, there was a saloon that was the most picturesque little space, and my mind immediately started imagining it filled with people dressed for the 1920s. I wonder what this boat was like in its heyday…

We also learned back that when the boat was used as a mode of transportation, and not just for tourist cruises, carrier pigeons were used to send messages to and from different ports along the river. And guess what? The Waimarie had its very own carrier pigeon on board: Baxter! Dana and I were given the opportunity to write a message that would be sent back to the Waimarie docking station and museum. So cool! We were told the pigeon will always go back, but they don’t always make it into the coop, where the messages can be received. So we had a good chance of seeing our message, but it was no guarantee.

After cruising for exactly 2 hours, the Waimarie aligns with the dock at 1:00 PM sharp, and we excitedly scurry off and head into the museum to see if Baxter brought back our messages He did! How cool is that! Haha.

We head over to a local restaurant to grab a drink and a light snack. It’s a cute place called Mud Ducks and lies in the art sector of Wanganui. Right next to the bathrooms was a Makuna honey vending machine! Haha what? Never seen that before! My other strange vending machine sighting was one completely filled with sparkling wine in a hotel in Denver. Now I feel like I’ll have to keep my eye out for the weird and unique vending machines around the world, hehe.

Dana shows me around the art district, where all the buildings are old and in the art-deco style. It makes for a very lovely stroll, and we find ourselves heading into the glass blowing studio, where they were actually blowing glass! It was really fun to watch for a moment or two. Many of the pieces in there were thousands of dollars, so we were sure to keep our arms and hands tucked in tightly as to avoid any accidental purchases, lol.

We pick up Hayden from work and head back to the abode, and Hayden prepares a lovely dinner for us. We watched a few more episodes of our now favorite show, Ghosts, but we decided to head out to a “night market” while it is still very much light outside. 🤣. We walk in, and at first look, there isn’t much going on at all. A few food trucks, but that’s about it. We were hoping for some yummy dessert, but Dana and I opted for a beer instead.

We picked a little beer truck and started asking the guy what his favorites are. He tells us his favorite isn’t here at all! Lol. Womp womp. But he lets us try each of the 3 beers he has on tap, and he pours generously. By the time we’re done “tasting,” we’ve likely already had an entire beer, lol. We make our selections and try to pay, but it turns out, since this market is attached to a larger event called the Masters Games, and in order to purchase anything at all, you first needed to purchase a card and upload money on the card, and THIS is what you pay with. No cash, no credit cards, only this extra card for the event. What? Haha

We were surprised and saw no signage explaining you needed this in order to purchase within the market. Strange. We were wrapping our heads around how to accomplish this, and the beer guy asks if we’re planning to buy anything else while we’re here, more food, beer, etc. And we say no, we just wanted to come and check out the place, have “dessert” and go home. So, he let us have the beer for free! Woohooo! Haha. Best beer ever!

On the way home, I learned speed bumps are called “jutter-bars,” because when you go over them, they “jutter” you, lol. I suppose it makes sense, but it also sounds made up to me 🤪.

Tuesday morning on my run, I seemingly tripped over nothing and skinned up both my knees. Whoops! 🤣. I also apparently broke the brand new sunglasses I had just purchased the day before. What is going on? lol. I keep joking that my friend Heather is with me in spirit because this is the sort of thing that would happen to her. 🤪 Hehe. Anyway, I kept on running and made it back without any other issues.

After Dana finished working, we FaceTimed the other part of our trio, Kelsea, and we chatted the afternoon away. Usually, it’s Kelsea and I together, but this time, I got to be on screen with Dana!

When Hayden came home from work, we went over to the big tower in town to get a Birds Eye view of Wanganui and to hopefully see the mountain! Ruapehu! We climbed the many stairs to the top and were greeted with beautiful views! The river Dana and I had taken the river cruise on was a totally different color. It boasted a greenish blue hue as opposed to the quite muddy brown we saw just a couple of days before. We also were just able to make out the mountain, shrouded in clouds and mystery.

We had one more stop in the national park: a gorgeous viewpoint looking out over a river valley. What a beautiful spot for a picnic!

Now, back to the house to pack for the road trip! 🙂