Day 3
At breakfast, a couple from Australia, Vanesa and Darko, were kind enough to share a traditional Australian treat with Heather and I… Vegemite. 🤢 Have you ever tried it? It’s… shall we say, an acquired taste? I had the (mis)fortune of trying it while visiting some dear friends in New Zealand. I knew that it would be “interesting” when one of them had their phone out ready to film my experience. 😅
Well today, having learned from past experiences, I politely declined the generous offer, but I encouraged Heather to try. She seemed excited and dipped her pinky in a small gloop of the salty spread, and tasted just a tiny bit, and her face said it all: not exactly the deliciousness she was lead to believe it would be. 🤣 We all laughed and Vanesa and Darko explained how it’s given to children from an early age and people just get used to it. Before the fun was over, they managed to convince our guide to try it as well. 0 for 3; nobody enjoyed it. 😅 Maybe that just means we need to spend more time in Australia :).
Before we arrived to the first stop, Hatem gave us all kinds of information on the bus. My favorite trivia fact is the unique Jordanian “drive-thru” coffee. There were men standing on the side of the road, waving a silver plates. They sell coffee, and you are able to order this coffee from your car as you’re approaching the coffee shop. Using only hand signals, you can ask for a specific number of coffees, ask for normal sugar, half sugar, even a teaspoon of sugar, or no sugar at all. After charading what you would like, the coffee seller will nod and confirm back to you before going to the roadside shop to prepare it. By the time you pull up and park your car, your coffee will be ready. Of all the amazing things we are learning in Jordan, this has to be one of my favorites. ☕️🤗
Our first stop would be Mt. Nebo, a pilgrimage site where Moses brought his people out of Egypt and first laid eyes on the Promised Land across the Jordan Valley. We were told that it would be windy up on the mountain, and that was probably the biggest understatement of the trip. 😅 We all felt like we’d nearly get picked up from the wind and be blown away to Israel. We could just barely make out the cities of Jericho and Jerusalem across the valley.
Three separate churches were built on top of one another at the summit of the mountain, the first being a monastery built by monks, the Byzantine church, and currently the Catholic Church, which has beautifully preserved the ancient mosaics.
We left Mt. Nebo and went to a mosaic workshop to learn how they make the works of art. One of the women gave an explanation of the process and we observed several artists in action, creating a variety of pieces. It looks like a painstaking process and I can’t imagine having the patience to finish one. Their work was incredibly beautiful, and a bit expensive. I was interested in a small garden table and it was 1,100JOD, or about $1,500. I’m sure it is worth it, but I just don’t have the budget for something like that. Although… I couldn’t help myself and instead bought a smaller wall hanging of the black iris, the national flower of Jordan, which symbolizes strength and resilience.
After visiting the workshop, we drove a short way to the city of Madaba, made famous for its mosaics. The big point of interest here was a 6th century church with a mosaic map of the area. It showed all of the important pilgrimage sites such as Jerusalem, Bethlehem, the Jordan River, Jericho and more. While walking around Madaba, we tried fresh Medjool dates… my life is forever changed. I’ve enjoyed dates, but I had never had any this delicious. They were moist and flavorful where the dates I’ve had before are a bit drier and more chewy.
Next up, Karak Castle! In the 12th century, the Crusaders had their eyes set on Jerusalem as their capital and wanted to create a stronghold nearby in order to exert their influence in the region. They attempted to enter the territory from the north, but were thwarted by Saladin. Discouraged, but not defeated, the Crusaders tried again, this time from the south, and successfully constructed the castle. Though, ultimately they were besigied and fell to Saladin, who became the first Sultan of Egypt and Syria.
The rest of the afternoon was spent driving towards the one, the only, Petra! 😍 Before arriving to the city, we stopped by a building constructed around Moses Springs, where the city of Petra sourced their water. The Nabataean built an extensive network of clay pipes to bring water from this spring a distance of 5km into their city below in the canyon. These springs played an important role in the Bible as well; it was this precise location where Moses struck a rock and brought forth water to offer the Israelites.
The Nabataean people were a nomadic people originally from what is now Yemen. They moved to different places until they found the sandstone mountains located in the Edomite Kingdom. The Nabataeans wanted this area for themselves and began constructing Petra. They traded in spices and flourished until the Romans absorbed the city and added their own touch.
Soon we arrived in Wadi Musa and before checking into the hotel, we had to rush a bit and purchase our “Petra By Night” tickets. Normally, people would do this the evening after visiting Petra all day. But the day we arrived was the last day they were doing the night experience before the weekend. So it was now or never.
We got back to the hotel and had a lovely dinner prepared by the kitchen, a traditional Jordanian dish called Maqluba. Rice, veggies and chicken all cooked in one pot, and once it’s finished, the pot is flipped upside down onto the serving tray. One of our tour members, Barbara flipped the vegetarian one after watching the chef expertly perform the flip just one time. Excellent work, Barbara! 🥳
After dinner, it was time to gather our things for the “Petra by Night” experience. This was an additional option to walk through the candlelit canyon to the Treasury where we would enjoy a light show projected onto the giant tomb. As it dawned on me that this would be my very first impression of Petra, I was filled with a sense of awe and wonder, and I was confident that this would be a magical experience.
We showed our tickets and passed through the entrance, beginning our stroll through the canyon. I’m embarrassed to admit I thought Petra was only the Treasury, and I had no idea how long of a walk it was just to get there. The walk to the infamous building included several other points of interest illuminated by warm lights, and I began to imagine just how immense this place was. Soon we entered the narrow canyon, with only a sliver of sky above us. The candle-filled paper lanterns guided our way deeper and deeper into the glowing canyon. We meandered down the path, admiring the sparkling stars above us, and before we knew it, just around the corner, we got our first views of the incredible treasury.
Wow.
Just wow.
Honestly, I don’t think the light show was even necessary. To just sit in front of the iconic tomb lit by candles was enough. They passed out small cups of tea, and we watched a short presentation that projected different images onto the Treasury, explaining some of the history. I enjoyed it, but all I found myself wanting was more of the warm candle light, and to just soak in the beauty in silent reflection. Without a doubt, it was magical. ✨️✨️
Now it’s time to get some sleep and rest up before exploring the rest of Petra tomorrow. 😁
Day 4
With a quick breakfast, we were off to see Petra by day. On our way, Hatem pointed out a tall mountain with a white building on top. This was Aaron’s tomb, the brother of Moses. There is so much religious history in Jordan…
As we begin our walk towards the narrow canyon leading to the Treasury, Hatem explained some facts about the first few tombs we saw. Many of the tombs have a stepped design on top, a cultural trait the Nabataeans picked up while living and traversing through Syria. One tomb had obelisk like shapes on the top, an influence from Egypt. Walking down the road, there were some very obvious limestone cobbles making up the street, something the Romans added when they came through and took over. As we learned before, the city piped in its water from up the mountain and they even had a filtration system built in, giving the city access to clean water.
The Treasury tomb was built for the last Nabataean king and took 40 years to carve. They carved all of these impressive buildings from the top down.
The site was filled with little shops selling everything from coffee and tea to magnets and jars filled with sand art. There were even a few children selling postcards, and they had a favorite phrase to use when denied: “You dropped something…” and we would look around confused as if we had actually dropped some of our belongings, and they would continue … “you dropped my heart.” It was so cute! But not cute enough to convince me to purchase anything. 😅
We did however, get pulled into a shop selling kohl, a natural eyeliner. The shop owner applied it for us and explained that once it was on it would last for 2 days and water wouldn’t make it run or come off. He claimed the tiny bottles he was selling would last 2 years. It it used to help protect the eyes from the sun and the desert sand. I was already interested in this and was especially excited to try it out. I bought some and have been practicing this whole trip on applying it properly, although I think I need a couple of YouTube videos and several more attempts before I feel truly comfortable with it.
By the time we made it to the end of the main road, it was time for lunch and to part ways and explore on our own. Several of us decided to climb the 948 stairs to the Monastery: another very large and impressive tomb set back from all the others.
Along the way there were again many shops built right into the trail selling all kinds of goods and wares. Some people were offering “taxi” rides on mules, but these poor animals looked so overworked and too small to be carrying people up the uneven and sometimes slippery sandstone steps. 😔
We make it to the top and are rewarded with the majestic monastery. We do a celebratory photo shoot, trying to get the perfect jump shot in front of the megalith. After about 1,000 pictures, we decide we must have a least one good one, and continue exploring the area.
On our way up the trail, we had run into Barbara, and she told us about a great lookout spot that was free and offered a birds-eye view of the monastery. We decide to head up that way and climb even more stairs. The higher we got, we began to notice just how windy it was up there. Time to take off the hat, lest the wind do it for me. 😅
We reach the top and enter the shelter, expecting to be asked for an entry fee of some kind, but much to our surprise, we were not. There was a gentleman inside selling beverages and snacks, should we want something, but he did not ask anything of us. We commented on how nice that is, to not be pestered, and it inspires me to give from the heart. He invited us to come in and enjoy the view. It was such a lovely shaded respite after hiking up in the sun. I decided to order a coffee to support the shopowner, and we enjoyed an extended break up there before bracing ourselves for the walk down.
Back near the main road, we followed another trail towards the Royal Tombs. Along the way, we got a fabulous view of the Qasr Al-Bint and the Great Temple, in addition to a Byzantine church with more incredible mosaics. By this point, we are already exhausted, but we march on, determined to see everything we possibly can.
We approach the Royal Tombs and explore inside several of them, in awe of the colors of sandstone. We marvel at the grandness of the entire site of Petra and slowly begin walking back towards the visitors center.
Since nearly the first day of the trip, I had my eye on a beautiful Jordanian dress, and the time had come to do some shopping. I already saw the one I wanted and it was also the same shop Hatem told us was a good one to make purchases from. Perfect! Heather and I walk in and begin looking at different dresses and scarfs. I tried on the dress and I knew immediately I wanted to buy it. I just had to reconcile the price and be okay with spending a small chunk of money.
The shop owner pulled out a scarf to match the dress and put it on me, completing the look. And he also helped Heather do the same, showing us how to properly put on the scarf in two different ways.
Heather and I both walked out of the shop with some goodies and headed back to the hotel. She haggled so perfectly with a taxi driver in Arabic, and the rest of the taxi drivers and myself included, were so impressed! Nice work, Heather! “Hamsa! Hamsa!”
Back at the hotel, we do a quick refresh and head downstairs to meet the rest of the group for our briefing. Hatem is doing an excellent job keeping us updated about what we need to know for the following day, but tonight, I think the group is feeling the sleep deprivation and exhaustion of the trip. We are getting a bit slaphappy and silly and can barely contain our laughs. Although it made for a longer meeting, we got through it and soon it was time for dinner.
We ate a restaurant in downtown Wadi Musa and I tried the kofta sesmi, a lamb and potato dish with a tahini/sesame sauce. It was so delicious! All the food we’ve had has been incredible and and I can’t wait to see what else is in store for us.
After dinner, our waiter put on some music and began dancing, getting Barbara up and teaching her a few moves. The waiter was VERY good at shaking his booty, and he had all of us laughing and clapping along while he was encouraging all of us to get up and dance with him. A few of us did, and we danced the night away. Well, until we tired out about 15 minutes later and cashed out. 🤣 Some of us wanted to check out the cave bar before going to bed, and it had already been a long day, otherwise, we may have kept dancing well into the night.
The cave bar was so beautiful! Exactly as it sounds, a bar built into a sandstone cave. Several of us sat around a circle and enjoyed a very expensive beverage in the ambiance before heading back to the hotel for some much needed sleep. Hatem told us that in the busy season, there is barely room to even stand inside. I’m so glad we’re here in winter. 🤗
Day 5
This morning our first stop would be Little Petra, about a 15-20 minute drive from Wadi Musa. This place was used as a guesthouse and meeting place when the Nabataeans would manage trade deals or visitors from outside.
This site had a place for visitors to tie up their camels, as the entrance was an extremely narrow canyon, and no camel would fit inside. I’m sure this was a form of security as well. You could pass maybe 2 across through the short and narrow entrance, and if anyone attempted an attack, the Nabataeans could easily pick off the aggressors.
Inside the site were several huge water tanks for storing fresh water and meeting rooms carved out of the rock. Inside one of the carvings was a beautiful fresco painted on the ceiling much later in time. I can only imagine what it looked like when it was new.
The next stop would be the infamous Wadi Rum Desert. On the drive, Hatem filled us in on so many details and facts. Something many of us were excited to see were the film locations for Star Wars, the Martian, and Aladdin. There were also two films being filmed inside the desert in 2024, but Hatem didn’t know which ones… guess we’ll have to keep our eye out!
Surprisingly, the desert actually contains the largest source of water in Jordan. Being a very dry land, the water is precious and is actually piped all the way up from the desert to Amman, making it the largest supplier of water to the capital.
The people living in the desert are the Bedouin, a nomadic people who live in different camps spread out across the dry red tundra. Camels are very important to the Bedouin and are invested in like some people might invest in gold.
As we got closer to the desert, we stopped by the only train station in Jordan. There once was a larger rail network, but it was destroyed during the Arab Revolt against the Ottomans. However, a small section still operates, running supplies between Wadi Rum and Aqaba. The train is from the 1900s and looks like it. It almost reminded me of the toy trains some people put out at Christmas time.
We soon reach a stopping point where our trusty bus will leave us and we will get into the back of 3 pickup trucks to drive into the desert. Here we go! Driving straight into the desert, there was a sandy haze that gave the effect of layered mountains. The closest were dark and clear to see, where the ones farther away gradually appeared lighter and lighter until they disappeared entirely into the hazy horizon.
We arrrived to our camp and brought our things inside. I was expecting to be set up in cloth tent accommodations, but it was definitely more like a lodge or hotel room. Slightly disappointing after imagining what kind of magical Harry Potter glamping tent we might end up in, but it was beautiful nonetheless, and very comfortable.
After we ate an amazing lunch prepared by the community, we got back onto the pickup trucks to begin a desert tour. Our first stop was a tent that was selling various goods and we were invited in for some tea. Hatem explained a bit about the different products the Bedouin make and gave us a chance to purchase some. Outside the shop there was a really fascinating mosque. It was a small area designated by a very small rock wall and it was pointed in the direction of Mecca. Another amazing thing to see was the cliff inscription written by the Nabataean people. It included images of camels headed in the direction of the trade route, and written words in Aramaic.
Next up were some of the movie set locations, including Aladdin, Star Wars, and the Martian. We then moved on to a neat area where we all shouted and heard the echo come back to us. I’ve never quite heard something like that before. Nearly 16 people all shouting the same thing created quite the effect when it echoed back to us.
At our echo stop, we sampled a Bedouin blush, which is crushed sandstone. Very orangey, but once rubbed in and properly blended, it looked nice! Hatem applied it to almost all of our cheeks, but a couple people slowly worked there way to the back of the crowd… I see you, Darko!
Our next stop was a special sunset spot. When we arrived, Barbara and I changed into our fancy Jordanian dresses and had a small photo shoot. As the sun was setting, three camels were crossing down below and were lining up perfectly with the golden rays of the setting sun. What a beautiful way to end the day. 🤗
Back at the camp, we had a brief moment to sit around the campfire before experiencing a national dish called Zarb. This food is cooked on a three tiered platter, with rice, meat, and vegetables making up the individual tiers. It is then placed inside a sand oven, buried a few feet deep in the sand, and cooked for four hours.
We were invited to watch the men pull this savory meal from the sandy earth, and as soon as it was exposed the smell began to permeate the air. This was going to be delicious. Even though we were pretty much in the middle of nowhere, the meals provided in the camp were extensive. Bowls and bowls of fresh salads, and of course tonight, heaping portions of rice, lamb, chicken, and veggies.
After dinner many of us went on a stargazing adventure. Now, let me preface this story with a description of what we thought we were getting. We all imagined taking the trucks out into a spot deep in the desert where there was no light pollution. And here, the guides would set up a few telescopes, and we could lay down in the sand and admire the stars above, or we could use the telescopes for a closer view.
Well, our pickups begin drivings towards the light pollution, and we’re all left a bit curious as to what we’ve paid for, and surely we’ll pass through the town and back into the desert, right?
On Heather’s truck, they began joking that maybe we are headed to a planetarium to watch a movie about the stars. 😅 When we arrive to the spot, we go into a building and are handed a thick card that looks like a hotel key, and are told to go next door and give this to the guy. Confused, we do as we’re told, and we walk into a room set up with chairs and…
…a projector showing an image of the stars on the wall. 🤣 We all begin cracking up… barely able to contain our giggles, so much so that many of start to get watery eyes. This can’t possibly be all there is to the evening, but we’re all a bit worried and having a good laugh anyways. We’re here, and it will be what it will be. As we’re trying to control ourselves, we find out that Barbara has a water bottle filled with wine and travel sized squirt bottles with filled with tequila. Well, if we are only going to watch a movie, then we should have a good time anyways with Barbara’s goods. 🍸🍷 This makes us giggle even more, and I’m sure everyone else in the room was wishing we’d just be quiet. 😅
Soon a gentleman walks in and begins by asking “I’m sure you’re wondering…” And Barbara replies quite loudly, “Yes!” Which makes us all giggle some more… it’s uncontrollable at this point. I’m starting to feel a bit bad for everyone that has to listen to us 🤣. The gentleman then explains that yes, we will be watching a short animation, but then we will be headed outside.
The animation was actually quite lovely and I think pulled us all back to our senses. It began with an image of a woman laying on the grass, and started to zoom out. Each zoomed out frame included the distance in feet, meters, kilometers, all the way to light years. It gave an excellent perspective of just how enormous the universe is. It certainly made me appreciate the ability to see things through the telescope. Once the animation finished zooming out, it zoomed in, all the way to the tiniest known parts of the human body. I’m not sure if I feel more insignificant after watching the short film, knowing the Earth is a tiny pinprick within the university, or if I feel overwhelmed with gratitude for being conscious and alive, created from so many tiny pieces that allow me to experience this wide and wonderful world.
After the video, we head just outside to an area that has barriers set up around it. This is where the telescopes are located. I thought we would be getting in vehicles and going further into the desert. There was clear and obvious light pollution from all around. How could we possibly see much?
The four telescopes were set to view the Orion Nebula, Sirius, a star cluster, and the big whammy, Jupiter! The storms on Jupiter were clearly visible as two stripes that went across the entire planet, and this was by far, my favorite thing look at. The Orion Nebula was second, as it was possible to see the hazy blue hydrogen cloud surrounding it.
Once everyone had their fill of looking through the telescopes, our guide showed us how to find the North Star and a variety of constellations, including Leo! I hope I can remember how to find it:).
About an hour passes, and we head back to our pickup trucks and back to our camp. We were hoping to have time to sit around the camp fire and enjoy the even darker night sky here, but we got back nearly at 11pm and I for one, wanted to get some rest before the next day. So long, Wadi Rum! 🥹
Taking Off With Amelia 