Monday:
Our Airbnb was more like a hotel/guest-house, and our stay included breakfast! The dining room was in a separate building, so with bleary eyes and hungry bellies, we got dressed and walked across the courtyard, anxious for that first sip of coffee. They had a short but diverse menu with the traditional Irish breakfast, smoked salmon, and of course, pancakes. Jaimee and I sneakily brought out the little nun-made Irish cream and sampled the deliciousness for the first time. Yum! What a fun way to start the day.
Next up was a trip to one of the Aran Islands, Inis Oírr. The boat ride was not for the faint of heart. Now, I KNOW it wasn’t comparable to the Drake crossing en route to Antarctica, but I’m quite certain it was the closest I’ve ever experienced to something that intense. Water was crashing up over the sides and windows of the boat, and the staff were “walking” (more like struggling to stand upright) around passing out small bags for those getting sick or feeling like they might. I have to say, even though I consider myself to have a strong stomach, this ride was testing the iron clad reputation of my guts. 😅
When we arrived, we opted to rent bikes to ride around the island, and after a false start, one flat tire, and a new rental, we set out on our way. Our first stop was the Plassey Shipwreck. This huge freighter ship washed ashore back in 1960, and has sat guard over the coast ever since. We walked right up to it, some people venturing inside where the hull had corroded away. We spent some quality time here, enjoying the wind on our faces and the fresh air, trying to settle our stomachs before moving on to the next spot.
We rode back the way we came and ventured up a pretty steep hill in search of an old fort. It was pretty cool! It looked ancient, and the views from the hill were amazing! The color of the water was almost a tropical turquoise with the sun peeking through the clouds; definitely not something I’d expected. After taking in our surroundings and posing for a mandatory selfie, we head out in search of the ruins of a 10th century church. I was really excited to find this one, but the map we had wasn’t great, and there weren’t any signs to help us. We meandered through the “downtown” and up a windy and hedge lined road, catching views of cows, fields, and the ocean below. Jaimee stopped and asked a local man for directions and confessed she couldn’t understand a word he was saying 🤣. Thank you for trying, friend! So we kept going, hoping we were on the right track. There were only so many roads on this little island, how far off could we be? After a few more minutes, we decided to call it a loss, and head back towards town, as our departure time was nearing. We had a little more time, and rode along the coast which provided spectacular views and eased the loss of not finding the church.
As I’m writing this blog, I have looked up another map of the island, and I think we were sooo close to the old church when on our way to the shipwreck. I’m bummed to have missed it, but I suppose it just wasn’t meant to be this time around. I’ll leave that for my next trip out there:).
The ferry ride back to the mainland was much smoother than on the way there, and it was almost relaxing to feel the ebb and flow of the ocean as we sped through the waves. It was a rare moment, quiet and contemplative, in an otherwise very busy itinerary.
Once back on the mainland, we returned to our Airbnb to relax and refresh…
…But not for long; our day was just getting going. Up next up: the cliff walk trail to the Cliffs of Moher! It’s walkable from Doolin, with the right mentality and stamina. I was at first, slightly bummed, because I wanted to be sure to see the cliffs, but also really intrigued by making the long trek there. It was a risk: would we make it that far? Or would we turn around before reaching our end goal?
We begin our journey up a steep paved road to the trail head, and I’m almost immediately tired. I picked the wrong shoes for sure; I went with ankle booties that were waterproof and had more traction than my sneakers, which were my only other option. Spoiler alert, by the end of the day, my feet were KILLING me. Is anyone surprised? 😂
Anyways, this walk was AMAZING. And easily one of my top experiences in Ireland. We walked right alongside the cliff, listening to the crashing waves hit the steep terrain, occasionally being sprayed by the ocean mist. We came upon some spectacular views, and soon I was okay with the possibility of not actually making it all the way to the Cliffs of Moher. It was so lovely to be outside, enjoying the serene nature of Ireland. We had planned to do some hiking earlier in the trip, but we were rained out. So now, getting to experience some of the elements, walking next to a dear friend, in a place as mystical and magical as Ireland, well, this was shaping up to be quite the afternoon. 🙂
Eventually we make it to what looks like the end of the trail, nowhere near the Cliffs of Moher, as far as we can tell. We’re a bit stumped, as it looks like the trail continues on, but it is completely blocked off. Plenty of signs say no trespassing, and no walking on the road. What to do? Me, the rule-follower, was prepared to turn around, disappointed after having made it so far. Jaimee, with her “let’s-do-what-we-came-here-to-do-attitude,’ is ready to jump the fence. As we are debating and contemplating our next move, a cop shows up and asks if we need help. I guess we looked pretty confused, haha. And to my bewilderment, he told us to hop the fence! We had just seen someone do it… the cop explained the trail down to a point was totally fine, but there was a section that was not good at all and should be avoided further up.
With the approval of the local law enforcement, on we went! Successfully hopping the fence, we followed the trail down, and as we were arriving at the viewpoint, the person who had gone before us was already on his way back. Meaning, we would have this place to ourselves. And HOLY COW! What a true blessing this was. WHAT A VIEW! It was absolutely one of the most magical places I’ve ever been. Dramatically tall cliffs, the wild ocean stretching as far as the eye can see, a truly rugged landscape that makes you feel lucky to be alive, to bear witness to such an awe-inspiring place. Needless to say, we spent a long time here, soaking in the vibes and enjoying the breathtaking views. I felt so lucky sharing this special place with Jaimee. We always find ourselves where we need to be, and traveling with her is such a gift that I cherish with every ounce of my being. I already can’t wait to see what’s next for us. 🙂
We eventually pull ourselves away and begin trekking back towards Doolin. It wasn’t easy to say goodbye to that place, but it will forever live in our hearts and memories.
There was a particular part of the trail that had an extreme water spray situation. One we successful navigated on the way out, and now had looming over our heads on our way back. It was such a silly thing, and quite honestly, as fun as splashing in a puddle as a kid. As goofy as it was, it will also be a memory not easily forgotten from this day. There was no way around it, except for through it. And although we got pretty soaked, we dried off eventually. There’s a life lesson in there somewhere: sometimes you have to go through it, and while you might not feel great at first, eventually you will be okay.
The sun had been peaking out here and there the whole trail, but on our way back, she came out in earnest. All of a sudden, we were strolling in the golden glow of the setting sun, which made the water glisten and sparkle. And would it be a day in Ireland if we didn’t see a rainbow? Not on our trip, hehe. Number 8 for the win! 🌈🌈🌈
We had dinner at a pub back in Doolin, and it was SO good. Our appetite was HUGE after the day we had. We were extremely hungry and let’s just say, a cold pint of Guinness is a great way to replenish electrolytes. We’ll sleep good tonight…
Tuesday:
Today we begin a long road trip towards the Ring of Kerry, in the southwest of Ireland. Boasting dramatic views and plenty of places to stop and check out various viewpoints, it was shaping up to be another very long, but fulfilling day.
We happened to pass through a town called Adare, and it was so stinking cute! It wasn’t on any of our lists, but we are sure glad we didn’t miss it. It was so cute that we decided to park and walk around for a bit. We walked through a picturesque park with gorgeous flowers, including purple roses covered in shimmering rain drops. The town had a beautiful stone church and just across the street, some traditional thatched buildings.
We stopped in a coffee shop for a caffeine hit, and they had Salvadoran coffee beans! I couldn’t believe it! That is so rare to come across, and I instantly felt so grateful and excited to try the coffee. Delicious, of course, and so with our beverages, we wandered through a tourist market, where there were much needed bathrooms. We quickly realized this was used for all the giant tour buses, and we decided to head out quickly to avoid the crowds.
With one last stop for snacks at a grocery store, we got back to the car and continued on our way.
Next up, we made our way to Ross Castle, which we had apparently arrived about 5 minutes too late for the tour. Bummer! The next one was too far out, and we had to be at our Airbnb by a certain time. We did get to walk the grounds, and check out the one room museum they had off the main entrance. Here, Jaimee spotted something that made our journey well worth it, tour or not. It was a little model of the castle with figurines and buildings. Not much to note, but upon further inspection, there was a scene depicting the construction of the castle. There was a pulley system being used to hoist up large stones… and well, one poor soul was trapped beneath a fallen stone, complete with a pained expression on his face and even blood. I imagine the artist behind the model and I wonder how much they giggled, adding in a little secret. I bet not everyone notices… I certainly didn’t, not until Jaimee pointed it out. You never know what you’ll find! Before leaving, we had a peppermint tea outside, under a roofed lounge area, as the rain gently fell from the sky. Another simple, yet surreal moment, sitting in the shadows of a great castle.
We continued on our way towards Muckross Abbey, something I found on Google maps that looked absolutely gorgeous. Google maps took us to a parking lot, and it looked to be just across the street. As we headed over, we were ambushed by a man trying to convince us to ride with him in his horse drawn carriage. Google said it was a 5 minute walk, but this guy was telling us it was 3 miles away! Huh? No way, we’re good, and we can walk. So we start down the path, and I don’t see it anywhere. I’m checking the phone, and it does all of sudden, seem a lot farther than we initially thought. I was so confused because I read reviews and looked at the map, it looks like it’s literally just off the main road! Grrrrr.
Back to the car we go, and I look at Google maps again, out of the judging eyes of the horse guy… 😅 And behold! It looks like there may be a second entrance! Just a ways further up the main road. So we decided to check it out… it was on the way, after all. We arrive, and this parking lot is teeny tiny, and there are several horse drawn carriage guys. We definitely have no interest in paying them to take us slower and for much more money than our own two legs. We graciously deny their advances, and start walking towards the Abbey ruins.
Peeking out between the lush green foliage, we begin to see the beautiful stone building. It’s always difficult to pick a favorite part from a trip like this, but exploring these abandoned ruins makes it into at least the top 3 for me. Maybe it was the forest it was situated in, so lush and green. Or the gentle rain falling down, casting a mysterious and ethereal glimmer over the stone walls, or maybe it was envisioning what this place must have looked like in its heyday. We had free reign to walk almost every inch of this place, including the upper levels, and the biggest showstopper the Abbey had to offer: a gorgeous columned patio, with an amazingly large tree right at the center. It grew straight up through the top of the building. This was what drew me here once I saw pictures online. And yes, Jaimee and I had our tree-hugging moment, to be grounded in nature and to be connected to a special place.
The rest of our day was spent driving the Ring of Kerry to our Airbnb. It was particularly rainy and cloudy, not offering us too many views. We were certain there would be fantastic and breathtaking stops along the drive, and we were lucky to catch glimpses here and there, but mostly we saw clouds and rain.
We arrive at our Airbnb and quickly go to town to grab some dinner, lest we wait too long and the kitchens close. We were seated directly in front of some older women celebrating a birthday with a particularly spicy candle that was more like a sparkler that would burn out on its own. The birthday girl tried to blow it out and ended up blowing the sparks straight at her sister across the table🤣. Jaimee and I joined in singing happy birthday, and she actually stayed and chatted with us for a bit before leaving for the night. What a way to be seen and included in the local life. You just never know what’s store….
Wednesday:
Early to rise! Time for breakfast and as early a start as we can muster to see alll the things.
First up, the Kerry Cliffs! Much like the Cliffs of Moher, but, you know, different. Some may say they are less dramatic, but Jaimee and I both loved them! To start, we actually had some sunshine! The most we had the entire trip, and having entered town in the fog and rain, everything seemed new and exciting with the sun shining down.
From the top of these cliffs, you could see the Skellig Islands, which we would have loved to visit, but there really never is enough time to do everything. It was still really neat to see them off in the distance. And the WIND. Omg, the wind was insane! They had signs warning that if it was strong enough, to not go any higher. And I can easily see why. I felt like it could nearly blow me right over the cliff ledge. Thankfully, there was a fence. We spent a long time up on these cliffs, enjoying the newfound sun, the wind, the birds, the color of the water, the islands, and each other. How often do you get to just be? To just take it all in? This is one of my favorite gifts of traveling… when your only plan is to see new things, and looking out at a new landscape is enough. To not think about your to-do list or worry about things back home, your only responsibility is to enjoy the moment. When was the last time you did that?
After the cliffs, we decided to go to Valentia Island. There were a few points of interest here, one of which being Tetrapod fossils! Cooool! But before we got to those, we made our way to the tallest point on the island, Geokaun Mountain. While on the way, we saw a sign for handmade candles… so we followed it! Down the tiniest road, clearly only wide enough for one vehicle, and it looked like it went on and on to nowhere. Until, we rounded a corner and saw a small building with a little handmade sign. We walked inside and the views from the little store room were incredible, and the candles were lovely. After enjoying the various scents and views, we got back in the car and continued our way, up and up and up.
After paying an entry fee for the mountain, we drove up to the first viewpoint. A short cliff walk that was certainly beautiful, but after both the Cliffs of Moher and the Kerry Cliffs, these seemed to be small and while beautiful, not as impressive as the others.
We continue up the road and parked the car, and walked around the top. We trudged through the wet grass to reach the tallest point, where a big phone tower was situated. It was a slightly better 360 view, but we walked back down to the main area and found a seat a on the wall of a picnic area. As we did, a group of young guys popped down next to us with beverages, and Jaimee and I just took one look at each other, and she ran to the car to get our beers. We had to drink them sooner or later, as we’re flying out the next day! But guess who didn’t have a bottle opener? Us. Rookie mistake, lol. But the guys lent us theirs, and we all shared a brewski while admiring a glorious view of the island and town below. I just love unexpected moments like these. You could never predict them or force them to happen, but when they do, they mark your soul in a special way.
We came back down the mountain and began our journey back towards our last Airbnb of the trip. Along the way we stopped by a couple of ring forts from medieval times. They look just like they sound: a giant stone circle. One had different rooms on the inside, and even a storage space built into the wall. Or that’s what I believe it to be :). It was pretty epic, exploring these forts and climbing on top of their tallest walls and looking out towards the rolling green hills.
We continue our drive, and of course, see a rainbow! We were passing a gorgeous lake and were planning to pull over anyway, to take a break and enjoy the scenery. As we were getting out of the car, we noticed the sneaky rainbow playing peek-a-boo with the clouds. Apparently, this stop was meant to be!
Back in the car we go, and our journey brought us through rain showers, and more rainbows! Honestly, Hawaii boasts about being the Rainbow State, and that may be true within the US territory, but Hawaii doesn’t hold a candle to Ireland’s rainbows. Not by a long shot.
As we approach our Airbnb, we look around for a dinner spot, but ultimately decide we want a chill dinner before our travel day. We were simply exhausted by this point, so off to the grocery store we went. We supply up with all sorts of random findings, complete with a pack or two of unique Oreos and brown bread :D.
Back at the Airbnb, we ask our host for some supplies and we create a potluck style dinner with French bread, butter, meat, and our favorite, oxtail soup. It was so peaceful, and we celebrated another beautiful journey together while drinking our last two beers.
With full bellies, weary souls, and happy hearts, we showered and got ready for bed. Time for this journey to come to an end. Tomorrow we head home, but not without memories that will last us a life time. Here’s to the next grand adventure!
Taking Off With Amelia 