April 17th: Day after Salkantay
Today is all about relaxing, haha. I woke up and had breakfast at my hostel, which was way more than I had imagined. There was a small buffet table with fruits, bread, some cheese and deli meat, along with coffee and tea. I thought that was plenty, but THEN, a woman comes and asks if I’d like orange juice and how I’d like my eggs. EGGS? Hehe. After being on the trail, eggs became a delicacy mostly reserved for those with allergies. The rest of us were fed a sweet breakfast, usually with fruit and some sort of sweet pancake. I think one day we all got eggs, and we were tickled to our core, haha. It’s amazing what tiny little things we take for granted, but I love having the reminder.
After breakfast, I walk over to the Machu Picchu Reservations (MPR) office to collect my duffel bag and pick up my survivor shirt! Hehe I’m so excited! I didn’t think we’d get a shirt, either, since this was the cheapest trip option out there. I can not speak for the other companies, but if you have doubts about the price, don’t! This trek was amazing, and I’d do it again with MPR. While I was in the office, I also resevered a spot on the Rainbow Mountain Tour for the next day. I had a really hard time deciding to do Rainbow Mountain or Palcoyo. Palcoyo is lesser known and hosts far fewer tourists than the infamous Rainbow Mountain. That was a huge plus for me, in addition to seeing 3 colorful mountains and a stone forest along the way. All in all, it seems that Palcoyo offers more, even a better view of the largest monuntain in Cusco, Ausangante, a glacial mountain.
So why did I choose Rainbow Mountain? I think a big reason was the elevation. I enjoy challenging my body, and I thought the Salkantay Pass would be the tallest I’d ever been, but, as it turns out, Rainbow Mountain is taller by about 2,000 feet! Haha. That really had me going, lol. And I was considering doing both, but it would be back to back, and I’m not sure I’d arrive in time for my overnight bus on the second day. I’ll just have to save Palcoyo for my next trip to Peru, hehe.
I drop my laundry off at the hotel and apologize for how bad it smells, lol. 5 days walking will do that, plus a wet swimsuit, haha. Gross! Then I head out to do a bit of shopping, some water, lotion, shampoo, etc. Once I’m all settled, I pack a bag and head out for the day.
My first stop is the Inca Musuem. I heard great things about it, but it wasn’t included in my tourist ticket of Cusco. I was disappointed to learn that, but the entry was only 20 soles, so I decided to enter. It was also a good chance to shield myself from the midday sun for a bit. It was cute, but not as informative as I would’ve liked. My favorite realization was how many smaller communities/ethnic groups the Inca took over and incorporated into their empire. Most of the guides I’ve had seem to almost praise the Inca, especially when in relation to the Spanish invaders. However, the Inca were not so different when absorbing other peoples into their culture and cities, no?
After the museum, I head to a recommended coffee spot, thanks Dana and Hayden! I didn’t get a balcony seat, but as luck would have it, shortly after I ordered a cappuccino, the people at one of the window seats left! I quickly and swiftly took over, hehe.
I say there by the balcony, admiring the views of the Plaza de Armas and the cathedral, blogging about the Salkantay. Could life get any better? Hehe. After nearly 2 hours, I decided to say goodbye to my little creative and inspiring corner, and attempt to shop for a sweater.
I’ve been wanting an alpaca sweater. Sorry, Dana, lol. As cheesy and touristy as it is, they’re so cute! I’m fine with a fake one, with just the design on it, but I’m also interested in finding one made of real alpaca. Lord, help me if I get one when it comes time to take care of it, haha.
I must’ve entered every single store, with fake sweaters and supposedly real ones, and not a single one calls to me. I don’t want to buy one unless it’s “the one.” Haha. So, my search continues.
I met up with my friend, Julia, from the trek, and we sat in the Plaza de Armas for a bit, and it’s so nice to just relax and people watch. It was too early for dinner, so we head over to a coffee shop to have a drink and a snack. On our way, we ran into some of our trail friends, and we have an impromptu gathering! We then send out the call to whoever is around come by and share one last moment together as the Sexy Donkeys! Hehe. It was just as magical as it sounds 🤗.
After everyone parted ways, Julia and I decided to go to her favorite vegetarian restaurant she had come across in Cusco. El Encuentro. The portions were astronomical in size, lol. I felt so bad not to finish, and having no fridge at my hostel, I didn’t feel I could take it to go. But, the food was delicious! After dinner, we said goodnight and went our separate ways.
April 19th: Cusco
(Post-Rainbow Mountain; blog to come soon)
I attempt to sleep in, but wake up around 7, lol. Now that I think about it though, I guess that IS sleeping in when my wake up has been around 4am every day so far, lol.
I take a lovely waterfall shower and start to get ready, packing as I go. I head down to breakfast with my iPad, and plan to sit here and finish catching up on my blogging drafts. I get pretty far, and after too many cups of coffee, I pack it up and head upstairs to organize my backpacks for the hotel check out.
I check out of the hotel, leave my larger bag, and head into town for one last day in Cusco. So sad! There are so many other things I would’ve liked to do in addition to what I already did, but I suppose there is never enough time, is there? Hehe.
The first place I went was Qoriqancha, a museum and an Incan temple that was converted into a church. I thought this was included on my tourist ticket, but it turns out, only the garden areas and a separate museum were. Slightly dissapointed, but I paid the entry fee and walked around the impressive building. Along the outskirts of the inner colonial courtyard were the remains of the former Inca temple. It was very neat to see them still intact, almost protesting for their place in modern society.
This Inca temple was said to be one of the most important, and it was chornicaled by Spanish invaders. Famous for its golden adornments, all of which were stolen. While walking the grounds, I spotted a glorious hummingbird, eagerly feeding off the beautiful flowers in the garden, I’m surprised and delighted as to how many hummingbirds I’ve seen this trip.
After touring the paid entry area, I walked over to the one that is actually included in my ticket. The museum was at least as good as the Inka Museum, albeit smaller, and I’d suggest doing the free one associated with the tourist ticket rather than going to the former. After the museum, you pop up in the open garden area, and there is nothing more to see here than what can be seen from the street…just an unobstructed photo opportunity, perhaps.
I decided I’d look around for a massage…I’d been wanting one, but hadn’t fully committed. There are so many people on the streets offering them from as little as 20 soles, or around $5, but I was skeptical. Eventually my instincts told me to stop when this one woman was waving around her laminated sheet with the various options on it. I picked a full body massage, and paid about $30 for it. It was glorious. Much needed after the big hike, and after hauling around the daypack for so many days, hehe.
I thought now it would be a good time for a little coffee break. I knew of a few places in the main square now, but I remembered a cute cafe I came across while aimlessly strolling before the trek. I thought I knew where I was going, but it became clear pretty quickly how wrong I was, when I hiked up a giant hill, and much to my surprise, this one didn’t have any cute alleys to take as a shortcut, lol. Oh well. At that point, I decided I would head down back to the main square. I find myself in the same cafe we had our Sexy Donkey reunion, and find a table by the window overlooking the square, and have a small snack of tamales and a beer! This place had some craft beer, and I decided that rather than a coffee, I’d try something a new brew. Delicious! And I sat here for quite some time, continuing to blog.
It was getting close to the time I needed to head back to the hotel and grab my big bag and head to the Peru Hop bus station for the overnight journey to Arequipa. But, before I could leave Cusco, there was one more thing to check off my to-do list: eat “cuy,” or Guinea pig. I remembered the restaurant where they dress it all up, and I knew I had to go there.
I walk in and I’m the only person there! The have basically closed after their lunch service, and I’m trying to eat at 3:15, lol. The gentleman that owns the place explained that, but said they’d take care of me. I mean, the door was open! Hehe. So I confidently order the guinea pig. It was so good! I didn’t really know what to expect, but it was seasoned nicely, and I almost hate to say it, but it was reminiscent of chicken, with white and dark meat. I thought it wouldn’t be a lot of food, but I underestimated that. I did pretty good, but there was plenty left once I’d had my fill. It was a tad expensive for a typical meal in Cusco, but it was worth it for my picture! Hehe. And to try something new….it didn’t seem right to leave without trying it.
Just in time, I head back and grab my bag, and make my way towards the bus station. Not really sure what to expect, we end up on a single decker bus, with “semi-cama” seats, meaning they recline a good ways, but not fully. We were given blankets, which I didn’t expect, and I thought this may not be so bad afterall. Well, I was wrong, haha. There was a woman talking on her cell phone…I could tell she was trying to be quiet, but nobody else was making a peep, so it was quite obvious. And, I’m pretty sure she was painting her nails. Why? Why do people thing it’s okay to do that on public transit? I’ve seen it at least a handful of times on the plane. Let’s all agree not to do that, okay? Thanks. Haha.
Then…..at some point overnight the heat got turned up to inferno mode. I was dying! Lol. My seat was by the window, and I guess right below is where the hot air was coming from. I tried to stuff the area with the extra layers I brought as pillows, but was too afraid to put my polyester puffer jacket in there, as I was sure it would burn, haha. I was miserable. Sweaty, sticking to my seat, and after looking around, it seemed everyone was knocked out, including the guide who accompanied us on the bus. I figured I could lean my arm agaisnt the cold window and make it through.
Not sure how much sleep I got, I’m sure I got some, but dang, between the inferno and the bumpy ride, it definitely wasn’t enough, hehe. I’d find out later that my friend’s bus also had the heat cranked, and again, overhearing some people talking at the breakfast at the hostel, their bus was also hot. Why?? Whyyyyy??? Haha
We arrive to Arequipa around 5am and start dropping people off at their hostels. My hostel is located on a narrow street, so I need to get off the big bus and take a smaller “sprinter” bus the rest of the way. I get to the hostel, and there isn’t a room available yet, which was to be expected at 6 in the morning, lol. So I head up to the second floor and grab a hammock outside and realize just how beautiful this place is. I’m greeted by snow capped volcanoes straight ahead of me. Amazing!
Stick around and find out what I did in Arequipa! 🙂
Taking Off With Amelia 