Around Cusco

Day 3: Saqsaywaman, Q’enco, Temple of the Moon

I woke up at 6 today in order to make it to Saqsaywaman when it opened at 7. It was supposedly a 40-minute walk, but it felt like forever, and it probably took me closer to an hour, hehe. I began my journey and quickly realized I had my work cut out for me. Cusco sits at 11,152 feet/3,399 meters, and where I was headed was 12,139 feet/3,700 meters! Almost 1,000 feet in elevation gain. It was a gorgeous walk, and it was so early that there was no traffic, and only a few people walking dogs and running. 

The walking directions led you to the back entrance of the archaeological site, and those were the toughest stairs to conquer, lol. But I was wonderfully rewarded when I finally made it. I had my tourist ticket stamped, and the guard, Alex, noticed how much I was sweating..haha, thanks! 😅. We chatted for a minute, and he recommended muña (a Peruvian mint) for the altitude sickness. Which, I’m happy to say I am not feeling hardly at all now. I started with a pretty noticeable headache, but it never reached the painful throbbing level. The worst for me has just been getting winded really quickly, haha. Anyways, he spots a muña bush right next to one fo the Inca walls, and he walks me over there, and we go under the rope meant to keep people out, and he plucks a handful for me to have. I was so touched at his kindness, and this is a great example of why I love to travel. You just never know what you might experience or who you might meet. 

I continued on my way and realized just how large this place is! I couldn’t believe it! I walked this way and that way, trying to absorb it all, but I was clearly unable. It was really foggy, and the clouds gave the site a mystical feeling. Oh, and I was pretty much the only one there! Hehe. Go early and beat the crowds! 

I loved walking through these giant doorways, wondering what it was like in its heyday. 😍🤩

After spending longer than I anticipated here, I exited by the main entrance and soon realized the error of my ways. I had intended to walk from Saqsaywaman to Q’enco, and possibly visit a huge statue of Jesus, hoping for some great views. Well, the short way would’ve been to exit where I entered and cut across to the Jesus statue, then meander up the road to Q’enco. What did I do? Haha, oh, so much more…

I start by walking down the road to the point where I started the steep stairs into Saqsaywaman. I could’ve climbed again and done what I had intended….but…..because I’m me, I knew if I went into the San Blas neighbhood, I could see a colonial aqueduct that was built on a previous Inca version. So, off I go! Haha. It’s all part of the adventure! Hehe.

I saw the aqueduct and a famous street in the neighbhood, where the houses covered in hanging flower pots and the street with potted plants on both sides, Calle Siete Borreguitos. I’d say it was worth it…. always is! Hehe. But soon, I had to climb again…up to the road. So. Many. Stairs. I kind of wished I had counted, lol. I had one major mishap where I followed my google map directions up an enormous stair case, and nearly made it to the top, only to find out the rest of the way was closed off due to construction. Ugh. Back down I go! Only to walk a few staircases over and climb up all over again, haha. I was exhausted, to say the least, haha. 

And once I did make it to the top, my directions told me to go right. If I had gone left, I would’ve just followed the main road up to Q’enco. But I follow my directions and it leads me again, the back way, haha. And it was a VERY long and steep road. I actually walked half of it backwards, as it was easier on my body, lol. The locals must’ve really wondered what I was doing, haha. 🤪

Alas, I make it to Q’enco, an Inca religious/ceremonial site. One of the main attractions here is the Sacrifice Chamber, where it’s surmised the Inca used to make mummies and sacrifice some animals. It was pretty cool to walk in there, but after visiting the expansive Saqsaywaman, it paled in comparison.

After a short visit, I decided to walk about 15 minutes to a free site, the Temple of the Moon, which I had heard about from a man I ran into when leaving Saqsaywaman. He was very friendly and told me that he was a guide for Saqsaywaman, and as amazing as it is, there are other sites around Cusco that most tourists don’t know about. The Temple of the Moon was one of them, and he told me there was a stone with a relief image of decapitated monkeys. One idea as to the significance of this imagery was that perhaps the Inca knew humans descended from monkeys. I didn’t see these stones, but I did look it up on google afterward, and it looks like they are really there! I also saw photos of the inside as well, but it was roped off when I went, and as much as I would’ve liked to explore inside, I respect the preservation efforts. 

Much like Q’enco, I felt like there wasn’t much to see after Saqsaywaman, but I’m glad I went. 

That is, until I had to walk alllll the way back down to Cusco, haha. I kept telling myself I’d just grab a taxi, but it was all downhill, and I had already done the hard part, haha. So I kept on, but this time, I followed the main road, and actually was right near the entrance to the big white Jesus, so I figured I might as well go up and check it out, too, lol 😅.  The views were pretty spectacular, but there wasn’t much else to see besides the giant white Jesus, hehe.

When it came time to choose a staircase to climb down, I had some doubts, and I was worried I’d find the same one with construction. I finally decided on one, and as far as I could see, it was fine. Well. It wasn’t. 😆 Haha. Really?! I found the stupid construction again! Dang it! I was immediately filled with a sense of dread and regret for not taking a taxi, lol. Only one thing to do, though. Start climbing. *winces* 🥲.

I only climbed a few stairs and noticed a detour…it was less than safe looking, but I took my chances and went. There was a thin rail to keep us from falling of the quite high ledge this path was on, but I kept to the inside and made it to secure ground in just a few minutes. Thank GOD! Now I knew where I was and actually enjoyed the descent towards the main square, Plaza de Armas. 

I decided I would eat at Paddy’s Irish Pub, the highest Irish-owned pub in the world! A recommendation from a friend, and it did not disappoint! Thanks, Josie!! I was the only person there and got the only table right in front of the window that overlooked the main square. Yay! I ordered a burger and a beer and was planning on going through photos and catching up on text messages. But then, I notice a woman looking over, and I invite her to come and take a picture. She was grateful and asked if I minded if she and her boyfriend joined me, to which I said, of course! These are the kinds of encounters that make traveling so fun and interesting. You never know what the day has in store for you. They were Kathryn and Entienne, from Canada, and we shared some time together, talking about our Peru experiences, and then a guy walks over and asks us if we are willing to help with some promotional videos for the pub. Okay, sure! Haha. So he took a couple videos of us saying cheers, and now we might be viral on their Facebook page! Haha. Didn’t know I’d be an actress today. Lol 😆.

Soon, they went their own way, and a couple who had sat down next to us started talking to me, and they were visiting from London to see their daughter, who has been traveling since January. I just LOVE these random meetings and finding out about what other people are doing. And as if that wasn’t enough fun, I leave the English couple, and a woman grabs my attention, and says she’s a solo traveler and overhead some of my recommendations to the couple. I told her about the Sacred Valley Tour from yesterday and told her to book it, hehe. If only I could earn a commission! Lol! And shout out to another solo female traveler! Heck, yes! 

After all this excitement, it was time to slowly make my way back to the hostel. I wanted to look for the infamous, tacky, and touristy alpaca sweater. Sorry, Dana! 😅🤣.  I quickly realized the cheap ones are clearly NOT real, but I don’t care. For $10 or less, it’s a fun thing to have, lol. I did find one I LOVED, but it was also way too big. Dang it! Haha. So I went to every other store along the way to the hostel, looking for it, but to no avail. Maybe I’ll find it somewhere…or I may have to settle for something else, hehe. 

I run to the Salkantay pre-trip meeting at 7, have a quick dinner, and grab my clean laundry so I can properly pack for the big 5-day hike! I have to be at the meeting place at 4:45am, so I hope to sleep the best I can to be prepared! Let’s DO this! 😁